Looks like I will be taking them into the shop that assembled the rotating assembly. I want to see what he has to say about them. That coating cost me $250.
Looks like I will be taking them into the shop that assembled the rotating assembly. I want to see what he has to say about them. That coating cost me $250.
Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
"Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" ..
Oh, is that the WPC stuff?
Similar, Micro blue. Link in the first post. And it was just under 200 according to the receipt.
The front one is installed between the front valve cover and the lower intake manifold and the rear one is installed between the rear valve cover and the pre-turbo intake splitter. My main problem was that the stock PCV valve has been replaced with a straight through barb so without the rear installed I had a major vacuum leak that was being sucked into the lower manifold from the valve cover. With the rear installed it sealed that leak so the crankcase is now under vacuum at idle. I could have possibly put a working stock PCV valve back in.
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.
Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
Oh id definitely like to see more on this...subscribed x2
Id say yours look like #16, not 12
Last edited by NOMIEZVR4; 04-11-2014 at 12:31 PM.

I haven't seen a lot of super low mile bearings because I have never tore down an engine that new, but I don't like how it looks like the crank has contacted the bearing surfaces. I especially don't like:
because the crankshaft is not contacting the bearing evenly.
IIRC my rod bearings in my 95,000 mile motor did not show that type of polishing and in generally looked better than yours when I changed them (before it blew up later)
I also don't like the weird appearance of the bolt holes on the upper right part of the girdle there. Are they dirty?
Last edited by Chris@Rvengeperformance; 04-11-2014 at 12:19 PM.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
The stuff in around the bolt holes looks to be a grey anti-seize, or something. All the threads were covered with it when removed. I will get pics tonight.
Other than the front bearing uneven wear, does it look like no assembly lube was used, or could flooding the cylinders while priming caused this?
woops...I meant 16..
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