If I were buying new injectors, ID1000 and ID2000 would be the only ones considered.
If I were buying new injectors, ID1000 and ID2000 would be the only ones considered.
1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.
Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
"Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" ..
I really liked my DW injectors. I bought them new from Ninja. They were easy to tune and cam with latency numbers so I can drop them right into chrome when I get that setup. Given how hard I pushed my car I'm glad I went with new injectors. Seeing how much volume of fuel I was going through maxing out the 1000s if I had even a small variation in flow across the injectors because they were used not flow tested I probably would have boned my motor. At the very least I would spend the $120 on cleaning the injectors if you don't go new. I'd buy DW again if they made a 2000cc injector but will instead be using the 1600 FIC injectors I have on the shelf after I have them cleaned and flowed because of sitting for so long.
95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.
DW 800's on their way...
Well Brandon came by for a few hours, and James toughed it out through the scorcher that was unreal in the shop all day.
Tackled the Flashed ecu install! Mounted it n the base of the old one with a ziptie! Did not get pics, but ran an extra ground wire to the ecu housing for a piece of mind.
Oil cooler mounted, and connected.
Pressure tested the IC to 30lbs, and all is sealed nice. The only thing leaking was the rear head to bubble nipple. Pretty happy with the results of that.
Wired the gauges into the factory harness for power, and ground. Still need to run a constant power connection. Can't find the metal strips that remove the stereo. So temped some power leads in for them.
Ran the fuel pump hot wire, and then could not for the life of me find the diagram documenting which wires on the hat are which. So for now just plugged in the oem power.
Meth lines with the solenoid are complete now to the pump. Only need to wire the controller up.
After a trip to the store for food, and much needed cold drink, oh and FUEL we made the mistake of eating... Fughing hot! Production went down hill for this old fart.
James added fluids, and I pulled the coil connector, attached a battery, double checked the double check, and primed the oil.
** For those of you that have not done this pay attention**
I forgot to disable the fuel pump!!!!!!! So 15 seconds of cranking about 8 times with a few minutes in between to cool the starter, all the while pumping fuel in the cylinders with nothing firing IS NOT A GOOD THING! We connected the coils back up, and tried to start her with NO CHANCE of firing. So I pulled the front plugs to see how bad they were, and they were bathing in fuel. Good thing is I used my old plugs for the initial start up.
So I dried the fronts figuring that a break might be time enough to allow the rears to fire. This was at first a success, sorta. The damn thing tried to fire, but nothing doing. So I started to feel blood pressure rising. (No tools were harmed in this rage!)
After checking crap again, and again we noticed the fpr was showing 70psi! NOT GOOD. As with all that is 3S I had to pull half the shit out to get to the adjusting screw. Another fail moment is now had. Apparently I should have asked the pressure tolerance of the fpr when I bought it used.This was not offered up either, so MY learning moment. It seems the the regulator will not go lower than about 52lbs.
After lowering the fuel pressure she fired right up! (GZP's fuel line kit will handle 100LBS by the way, without leaking!) I also learned which way was which when adjusting it, lmao.
Start up!
The plugs are toast as you can hear in the vids. There was a couple times when she was running on all 6, but for the most part they are toast. So when the new injectors arrive, new plugs go in.
Not sure if the white smoke is normal on these things on first start up, but she bellowed. No sign of letting up either. Was the same all the way through warmup. Was not oil, or fuel smelling, and did not have the sweet smell of coolant either. Hoping just burning crap off all the new parts...
Still much to do before she sees the road, but oil change, and more sweat is getting her closer...
P.S. Not a drop of fluids are present! Woot!
That sure does look like a lot of smoke coming out the exhaust. I hope it clears up and isn't the turbo seals. It seems like I was the only lucky one to get away with good seals on the Devastators since I never had issues with mine. Josh had one turbo leaking from the get go.
What turbo drains...Stock or aftermarket?
Any concerns with all the fuel dumped in cylinders with the new hone and rings?
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