CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread [Pic Heavy]

[sergechronos]

Think bearings got damaged when the oil returns were plugged maybe?

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[CoopKill]

Only one return plugged, and never driven like that. Startup to temp, then oil change time.

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[CoopKill]

Cut open the 1st and 2nd filter. There was a slight bit of flakes in the oil drained, but the filter material looked ok.

1st filter








2nd filter







The 1st has mybe 10min on it. The 2nd has about 20 miles on it.


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[CoopKill]

I will cut open the 3rd once injector is back, and I change the oil.

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[Granny]

You are killing me!
Does any of it sparkle?
Sparkle is not good
I see shinny but not sparkle.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

That is a lot more than I saw.

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[familyMAN]

From the pic, that oil in your drain pan doesn't look good.

[Granny]

Sparkle in the oil pan

[Granny]

I'm trying to look on the phone

[Djmba]

Fracking balls.

My first engine build had almost the exact same oil pressure problem. I replaced the bearings after 100 miles and some of them had copper showing. After I put new bearings in, it had the exact problem. I was never comfortable driving it with oil pressure that low. I was ALWAYS worried it was going to blow up. It lasted 10K like that, and then I took it out in favor of another engine. That new engine lasted 20 miles before it spun a bearing.

So I rebuilt for a third time. I tightened the clearances up to .0015" on the mains and .0018"-.0020" on the rods because I thought that was the problem. LUCKILY found out during assembly that I was not cleaning the lifters properly. I thought I could just spray brake parts cleaner through the side of the lifter using the red straw, and wait until it came out the top clean. WRONG. You have to push the check valve. I am 99.9999% sure that is the reasons for the other engines being "failures". It took about 2.5 gallons of diesel to clean them out until I could go through all 24 lifters and the diesel look brand new. This was after I had "cleaned" them using brake parts cleaner.

I will admit that .0015" is a bit tight. But the crank was standard size and with standard bearings, the clearance was .0025". I didn't want to cut the crank so I talked to Ray and he advised me to put in race bearings because they had them in .001" undersize, which got me to my clearance now. Because of the race bearings and their inability to embed particles, I change my oil like every 1500 miles. Anywaaay...

I use Castrol 10W-30 and a K&N filter and my oil pressure is:
Idle: 20 psi normally, goes down to 17 psi about when I change it.
1000 RPM: 25 psi
1500 RPM: 40 psi
2000 RPM: 58 psi
2500 RPM: 76 psi

When it is cold out, 95-100 psi is not uncommon on start up. Now that it is warmer, it is at about 90 psi. I always wait for it to warm up to 120 degrees at least before moving the car.

What oil filter are you using? I put on a Havoline filter (supposedly a reboxed Purolator) and after only 200 miles, my oil pressure dropped 3-5 psi across the board. It was MUCH smaller than the K&N.





I put the K&N back in and it went back to normal. Maybe this is something to check out.