CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread [Pic Heavy]

[CoopKill]

Oil pump Clearances:

Tip - .09mm
Side - .04mm
Body - .13mm

[Djmba]

Oil pump Clearances:

Tip - .09mm
Side - .04mm
Body - .13mm

.09mm is .0035", which is the same as mine on a brand new OEM pump. I took it apart and spec'd it out before installing. If anything, I have high oil pressure. My clearances are .0015" on the mains and .0018"-.002" on the rods, which from what I remember is pretty close to your specs. The oil pump is not your problem. It's gotta be in the heads.

[CoopKill]

Yeah, pulling engine this weekend...

[Djmba]

If it makes you feel any better, you're not the only one to go though this. I built mine back in 2012 and had low oil pressure at idle and low rpm. Swapped the bearings after 100 miles since they were already worn to copper on some (new bearings didn't make a difference) and it ran fine when I took it out 10k miles later in favor after another build. Spun a bearing in 20 miles. Found out I wasn't cleaning the lifters as stated in the manual by pushing the check valve, so it was letting trash into my engine and killing it. Finally found out that was the problem from the get-go and corrected it the third build. Running beautifully now and just passed up 6k miles without a hint of oil pressure loss.

I've had 3 engines in the car since it's been in my possession. My dad had the car before me and had 4 engines in it before getting fed up with it. 7 engines total since 2010. This damn engine better last me a looooonnnnggg time. Lol.

[CoopKill]

LOL! My goal was to blow it up with the mtc's seeing what they will do then replacing it with a staged Pampena with anoher oddball turb if needed. Not made it past 12psi, and ring sealing yet... FAIL!

[RealMcCoy]

I'd bolt the rod caps back on, and air check the oil system. It's pretty easy with the pump off. Just apply air pressure to the rear galley of the block. I'm betting you have a leak somewhere. Were the oil squirters under the mains checked? If not, they can be a big leak if stuck open, as well as an excellent trap for junk to hide.

Was it a new crank? if not, how was it cleaned? were the galley balls pulled out to clean the passages?

Something went through that bearing, and it came from somewhere... It would seem some trash managed to hide somewhere. That's the biggest issue with building motors, whenever you think you have it clean, you need to clean it a couple more times, because you probably missed something.

[CoopKill]

I'd bolt the rod caps back on, and air check the oil system. It's pretty easy with the pump off. Just apply air pressure to the rear galley of the block. I'm betting you have a leak somewhere. Were the oil squirters under the mains checked? If not, they can be a big leak if stuck open, as well as an excellent trap for junk to hide.

Was it a new crank? if not, how was it cleaned? were the galley balls pulled out to clean the passages?

Something went through that bearing, and it came from somewhere... It would seem some trash managed to hide somewhere. That's the biggest issue with building motors, whenever you think you have it clean, you need to clean it a couple more times, because you probably missed something.

Will bolt the caps, and check with air when I get it on the stand. Needs to come out either way.

I am assuming he checked the squirters, not sure. Will folow up with him on them.

Original crank polished, and again I assume he cleaned the passages as he has done great work for me in the past. (4 different builds)

I will be hitting him up with barage of questions soon.

[green-lantern]

Im im a huge advocate for pampena blocks. But the problem might not be in the block but in the heads missing the restricters or oil flow problem outside the short block, and in that case a pampena short block will not be any different. A pampena 3.5 short block and stage 3 heads on the the other hand might be necessary.

Yeah true, I'm just Bill anyway lol

[CoopKill]

Anything wrong in these pics?

[Granny]

No expert here but is that a ring?