Is our suspension setup correctly by aftermarket strut MFR's? Is the bias correct?

[sergechronos]

Hmm, not too bad for people wanting a rear bias, but I would be vaguely concerned that it already feels like that at just 40mph. Suppose it depends on how sharp the ramp is though, probably sharper than I'm imagining. Maybe pick up a couple 9kg and 10kg springs and test to see how it feels?

Would be considered that any future changes to the suspension could alter those handling characteristics though, so maybe just ignore me.

[Nihil]

Hmm, not too bad for people wanting a rear bias, but I would be vaguely concerned that it already feels like that at just 40mph. Suppose it depends on how sharp the ramp is though, probably sharper than I'm imagining. Maybe pick up a couple 9kg and 10kg springs and test to see how it feels?

Would be considered that any future changes to the suspension could alter those handling characteristics though, so maybe just ignore me.

Yeah, I'd imagine once lowered it'll change things. The ramp is pretty tight and not cambered a whole lot.

Yay for google maps! lol
turn.jpg

I'm thinking of possibly going to a softer spring rate for a more comfortable ride, I won't know until I lower it, if I'll need stiffer for the roads around here, I don't want to bottom out and eat a fender.

*edit* I'm also running snow tires as well.

[sergechronos]

Tires alone will make a huge difference. Snow tires when there's no snow on the ground can't compete even against all seasons, let alone actual high performance. I'd say lower it how you want it and put more performance oriented tires on it before altering spring rates for handling. I forget some people have actual snow to worry about.

Not sure if coil overs settle like springs do or not. I know springs on previous vehicles (haven't dropped the Vr4x4 yet) that the springs definitely got a bit softer and the ride a bit lower still after a couple thousand miles.

[Nihil]

Tires alone will make a huge difference. Snow tires when there's no snow on the ground can't compete even against all seasons, let alone actual high performance. I'd say lower it how you want it and put more performance oriented tires on it before altering spring rates for handling. I forget some people have actual snow to worry about.

Not sure if coil overs settle like springs do or not. I know springs on previous vehicles (haven't dropped the Vr4x4 yet) that the springs definitely got a bit softer and the ride a bit lower still after a couple thousand miles.

Yeah, I'll see how it works out when it's late spring and I can run my street tires. From my experience though, the snow tires have a lot less grip and break loose easier, and previously the front broke loose and pushed outside, where as now, with the same tires, the rear felt like it was gonna break loose first, which was nice...perhaps I'll have to go to the outskirts of town and see what happens when it does break loose, or just wait. My next upgrades needed are for the transfer case...Don't wanna be too hard on the drivetrain in stock form.

[J. Fast]

Great to hear your results Nihil. I look forward to reading more about your setup in the spring when you swap in some performance radials. If it's a little to loose in the back disconnect the sway-bar or add some down-force. Have you corner weigh'd and aligned your setup? What are your alignment spec's currently?

[Nihil]

Great to hear your results Nihil. I look forward to reading more about your setup in the spring when you swap in some performance radials. If it's a little to loose in the back disconnect the sway-bar or add some down-force. Have you corner weigh'd and aligned your setup? What are your alignment spec's currently?

No corner weighing, I don't have the means to accomplishing that, nor do any of the shops around here. I threw the alignment specs away, it was all in the green, that's all I can tell you. I did a steering rack rebuild, with the new coilovers along with a bunch of other stuff so I was just wanting to button everything up for winter and get her back on the road so the alignment wasn't anything other than getting it to drive and handle correctly. I've got a lot of ironing out to do with the rest of the car as well, so we'll see how things go from here on out. I'm curious to see how things change once lowered.

[sergechronos]

Splurged, picked up a used set of Muellerized JIC FLT-TARs. Waiting to hear back from Muellerized what they want to repurpose them from Evo usage to 3/S usage. PO said he was building a track car out of them, so I imagine that the spring rates and valving are likely more than I'd want for my usage.

Jeremy, you said that Muellerized did redo those JIC FLT-TARs for you right? Since I've got the front suspension apart anyhow for rebuild/replacement, and the price I paid, I can't complain too much. Pretty much using my tax return on it, which may slightly delay the rebuild of the engine, but first time I've seen a set of these up for sale for less than 1700 in the past 3 months. Hopefully get some of these other parts of mine sold so that I can get the rebuild done and get these redone by Muellerized.

[J. Fast]

Yes, JIC's are re-buildable. He will give you a questionnaire and a confidentiality form to sign. The big thing is getting an idea of your tire type, ride height, and weight distribution so he can spring and valve in your window.

[sergechronos]

Excellent. I knew that they were rebuildable, just didn't know if the Muellerized ones you picked up before were redone by Muellerized or if you had to get someone else to do them.

18x9 summer high performance tires..Going to have to guesstimate a bit on the ride height and weight distribution as the car is still mostly disassembled and about an hour away from me. Figure somewhere around a 1.5" drop up front, maybe 1.25" in back should give fairly even wheel gap all the way around. Car is still full weight..So shouldn't be too tough for them for them to work with. Likely close to a default or baseline calibration for them. If I have to send them back in to get redone again once I've got the car together, broken in, and modified the way I want, I have no problem with that.

[sergechronos]

Received emails from Muellerized today as follows, posting for information for others:

Hi,

Do you have the seller's name or the original purchaser's name if different?
In most cases we have detailed notes that we can reference when we have that
information.

I'm sending you one of our suspension customer info forms (in a separate
e-mail) that will allow us to have the details we need in order to comment
on how to best meet your needs. Please let us know if you have any
questions while filling it out.

Also, additionally, JIC hasn't existed for ~4 years now, so parts
availability and the ability to service them is VERY limited. If you can
send us pictures of the suspension and it's condition we may be able to
comment a little more in detail.

Generally suspension setup for a customer supplied suspension (bench job) is
2 to 3 hours of labor plus springs if necessary (shop rate is $95/hour).
Eibach ERS springs are $75 each. That is without any re-valving.
Re-valving is unlikely to be a possibility and with parts this far out of
manufacture there is absolutely no guarantee that we will be able to improve
them if they are damaged or worn out and need rebuilding.

Our Muellerized Ohlins are now available at a HUGE discount due to a recent
manufacturer's price drop of $620 off the former retail. This puts them
only a few hundred dollars away from the original JIC retail for a
suspension that is a whole different ballgame in every aspect (design, build
quality, performance, ride quality, and warranty).

Regards,
Orlando Rojas
Operations Manager