Is our suspension setup correctly by aftermarket strut MFR's? Is the bias correct?

[Erron Spalsbury]

Still has stock radiator mounts. The spread on the stock radiator slot is like 28" and the height of the mounts is 17.5". You have an additional 2-3" standoff on the lower radiator mount and those 13.5" diameter fans overlap into the end tank like 1.5". Appears the actual core is around 25" wide and 14" high. Looks like it has 2" deep end tanks which typically tie to 1.6" core on 2" C&R radiators.

You were close, but it was quite a bit bigger than that.

[mehrshadvr4]

OK This is what we got, the only core suggested by Griffin and Becool radiator fabricators is an 18x15x2.75. He did the drawing and the overall size will end up at 24x15x3 this will cool a 1500hp drag engine or up to 800hp road race engine. As far as pricing he said $780 for one and $580 for three. It would be nice if we can get more people into this to get the price lower unless you guys are fine with this? Let me know if you guys are interested in this.

[familyMAN]

I'll have to measure to see if that will fit my setup. Concerned with depth.

[mehrshadvr4]

You should only measure the 2.75" core since the tanks will make it a 3" wide. I will ask him to make the radiator as far from the engine as he can.

[Nihil]

Just a back on track question here, as I'm planning on getting coilovers at the end of the month and have been leaning toward the Megans since they have the mounting bolt for the lines, which seems like they did more R&D than the others.

So, what do these specs look like to you guys? I was thinking of going with 10k all around, since front is 12k and rear is 8k, was gonna go with a 10k at a 50/50 biased setup like what's been found to work in this thread.

Ideas, objections, suggestions? Figured I'd ask here before I go inquiring and spending money blindly, I'm looking for a well handling road course car biased toward over steer rather than under steer. suspension is currently otherwise stock

SPRING RATES:
F: 62mm ID; 180mm length; 12 kg/mm
R: 62mm ID; 200mm length; 8 kg/mm

DAMPER SPECS:
F: 120mm stroke; 260mm length; M2 valving code
R: 115mm stroke; 240mm length; A1 valving code

M2 Valving
m2.JPG
A1 Valving
a1.JPG

[J. Fast]

The dampener characteristics of those are way different than mine. This is one of the dyno plots for one set of my dampeners.



I put my suspension geometry measurements and weights on a cut sheet and it was designed for this exact stance and a BFG R1 racing tire.



I can offer no opinions on the Megans as I went down a different road and have never been in a vehicle with them setup properly.

[Nihil]

The dampener characteristics of those are way different than mine. This is one of the dyno plots for one set of my dampeners.



I put my suspension geometry measurements and weights on a cut sheet and it was designed for this exact stance and a BFG R1 racing tire.



I can offer no opinions on the Megans as I went down a different road and have never been in a vehicle with them setup properly.

I'll admit I don't know how to read the charts, that's why I posted up those, so someone else can observe and compare.

Also, since you posted a picture of your car, do you rub at all, being that low? You DD that car, don't you? It looks really low like you'd rub and looks like your tires stick out enough, that if you hit a pot hole you'd eat a fender, though it's hard to fully tell from the side shot

[J. Fast]

I do not rub the fenders or bottom out. I have to put 1,800lbs on a corner to bottom out. Theres just not that much weight to transfer from the adjacent corners. The highest estimated load on a corner I expect to see is roughly 1,000lbs. That's the max load rating on the tire before it deforms . That's 1.5" of suspension travel for me, plenty of room. There's 2.5" of compression travel till an additional 250lb bump stop.

The big thing to look at on the valving is wether or not the wheel rate will blow thru the valving at speed. If your valving tapers off to early or is too low the dampeners won't attenuate the spring/wheel travel and you'll smack the bumpstops and overwork the dampeners.

[Nihil]

I do not rub the fenders or bottom out. I have to put 1,800lbs on a corner to bottom out. Theres just not that much weight to transfer from the adjacent corners. The highest estimated load on a corner I expect to see is roughly 1,000lbs. That's the max load rating on the tire before it deforms . That's 1.5" of suspension travel for me, plenty of room. There's 2.5" of compression travel till an additional 250lb bump stop.

The big thing to look at on the valving is wether or not the wheel rate will blow thru the valving at speed. If your valving tapers off to early or is too low the dampeners won't attenuate the spring/wheel travel and you'll smack the bumpstops and overwork the dampeners.

How did you go about figuring all of your weight transfer out? It sounds like you've broken down everything into variables and figured out how to calculate your requirements.

Your shock dyno appears to be softer than the Meagan's, so I'm gonna guess I'll have the valving required?

I live in a rough roaded town, so it'd be nice to be able to calculate all of this so i can know how much I can lower and still take pot holes and such. I don't wanna have to screw with ride heights/spring rates dd vs track, I can sacrifice street drivability for track drivability. My front tires stick out a little so if I were to go too low and bottom out, I'd eat a fender.

[J. Fast]

I figured everything out by measuring and building a template... like this one . I Pretty much followed Dennis Grant's formula for modeling and planning to build a professional suspension and used WinGeo 3.5 to build a model. From there I found my own way. A good starting point was this little gem Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Suspension. Once I collected all the info I had the data entered in a dynamic calculator like this... Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Dynamics Calculator . Positive results followed as expected.