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Thread: cutting a PP?

  1. #1
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    cutting a PP?

    well, i fucked up my 3rd gear so taking it to jacks to get a new synchro and have him go thru the trans on tues. Shifts fine normal driving and spirited driving, but NLTS 3rd is done.

    I have clutch chatter and was wondering if you can cut the PP? thing has maybe 3500 miles on it...if that.

    I have a shop that cut the flywheel and cant remember what it was stepped to but just asking if anyone knows if you can or has tried this?

    Mike

    1/4 mile 11.80 @117mph. 551whp 641trq @ 26psi E85 tune, MTC 19T-HLs, forge 15psi spring wastegates, 780 PTE inj, 3SX Fuel loop, ss fuel lines, Engine built by Laniers Speed shop, block bored .060 w/ chromolly rings, weisco pistons, 3sx custom forged rods, forged crank, HKS DLI, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO wideband, prosport oil and boost guages, aeromotive 1000 FPR, Dejon blow thru twintakes, Walbro E85 400 w/ 3sx hotwire kit and custom an fitting fuel pump w/ STM filter to pump line, CXRacing FMIC, Megan Racing Aluminum radiator, IPS custom downpipe, Borla 3" exhaust,Greddy profec b spec II EBC, Blitz SS BOV,R1 Drilled slotted rotors, Drag DR-31 rims, RPS stage 4 unsprung clutch,

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    I have a little chatter at certain engagement points. I planned on just doing some medium rpm launches to smooth it out, I read that would work.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

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    I resurfaced a PP before I installed an RPS 6 puck. That configuration is the only clutch I've ever killed without making much power at all. There were sparks spraying out of my bell housing... When you reduce the thickness of the PP, you reduce the clamping force. I can't remember the amount the machine shop removed, but on my way home, I called RPS and they assured me that thickness removed would be OK. Nope.

    So I won't be trying that again and unless you just really like R&R'ing the trans, you should avoid it.
    '93 VR4 | 10.57 @ 135 on C16 | 11.29 @ 125 on 93 | ~3275 lbs

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    what Adam said. I wouldn't do it.

  5. #5
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    If it isn't grooved or worn bad I have hit it with sandpaper before like when the clutch got glazed over or I swapped another disc in. I wouldn't machine it down though. There's no telling how much clamping force you'll lose.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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    Interesting... Jack's has my RPS Maxx pressure plate there right now. I asked them to check it out for me and Tim said if it needed it they would resurface it. Personally I would just ask Jack what his opinion is. In theory it shouldn't make that much difference as long as they only take off a couple thousandths since the plate would wear down that far anyway... but in practice it seems that may not be the case. I am hoping my Maxx PP will hold with an ACT 6 puck disc... if not I will probably get a Southbend stage 4 or whichever one is rated to over 800 ft/lbs of torque.
    Last edited by DK77; 03-09-2013 at 08:32 AM.
    1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
    Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.

    Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.

  7. #7
    I had my pressure plate resurfaced also. Trans shop said they do it all the time and it'd be fine. DO NOT HAVE IT DONE. My car made it 1 mile before the clutch slipped and it had to be pushed back t the engine shop. It cost me a lot in labor to have the trans pulled and a new pp installed. they'd also machined the flywheel and both were off by a few thousandths I believe. The tranny place said they were off by a thickness of two or three pieces of paper, howeve that was enough to cause no contact. Brand new pressure plate and disk solved it.

    Quote Originally Posted by AdamVR4 View Post
    I resurfaced a PP before I installed an RPS 6 puck. That configuration is the only clutch I've ever killed without making much power at all. There were sparks spraying out of my bell housing... When you reduce the thickness of the PP, you reduce the clamping force. I can't remember the amount the machine shop removed, but on my way home, I called RPS and they assured me that thickness removed would be OK. Nope.

    So I won't be trying that again and unless you just really like R&R'ing the trans, you should avoid it.

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    hrmm, sub'd.

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