Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: She's too loose! I need to tighten her up!

  1. #1
    Never finishes any verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2001

    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    2,518
    Thanks
    51
    Thanked 197 Times in 140 Posts

    She's too loose! I need to tighten her up!

    To be Clear, This was all on paved country backroads with no houses around for miles. I don't trust tuning on the highways as they are too busy around here. I drive 30 min to get to these roads to do tuning runs.

    So yesterday I'm out doing some tuning runs and really noticed how unstable the front end of the car was when going over 100mph. I hit 105-110 and knew not to push it any further. Steering was breaking up and it felt almost like it was floating to a point. I know off hand I have a bad CV axle on the passenger side "Some vibration in the front/right", so I ordered a new one from Rock Auto today. I'm going to get the front end jacked up to take a look to see if I notice anything out of whack.

    Is there anything I should specifically look out for?

    What I know off hand:
    The control arms are still tight as I have to use a jack under them when attaching them back to the strut.
    Alignment is still good as I can let go of the wheel and it does not vere and locking up the brakes it will stop straight.
    End links were replaced last year but the dust boots have fallen apart "Ebay Crap", but they are still pretty tight last I checked.
    Ball joints were not replaced, just cleaned, re-greased & re-booted. How do you tell if they are actually bad?
    The steering rack has about 1/4-1/2 play in it which I think may be normal.

    Let me know your thoughts on the above.

    What has everyone else done to help tighten up the front end of the car to make it feel more stable at 100+ mph speeds?

    Check it out on Youtube!!


    93 Stealth TT - The Stealth Project

    Renegade Tech Works ECS Controller on Intrax Springs
    Chrome ECU
    Hybrid 13g's
    EVO 560cc Injectors
    Spec Stage 3 clutch
    Ninja Performance Output shaft & Input spool
    Ninja Performance Solid Tensioner & Gates racing T-Belt
    CX Racing Dual Core FMIC
    Megan SS Exhaust
    Fidanza Cam Gears and Clear Covers
    3rd Gen Lifters
    HKS BOV
    K&N FIPK
    Maximal High flow converter
    Walbro FP & FuelLab FPR
    Maximal and Seattle Solid Mounts
    All -6an Lines
    Custom -6AN coolant neck lines
    AWS/ABS/Cruise Delete
    MP Rear Control Arms
    SS Brake Lines
    99 Front Conversion
    2nd gen Rear Bumper
    99 Combat Wing
    Complete interior LED Swap
    Skillard Fuel channel
    Oohnoo FPR Bracket
    .
    .
    More to Come......

  2. #2
    Banned Not Verified Blackmount's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Owner Since
    Mid-April 2011.

    Location
    Monroe WI
    Posts
    1,466
    Thanks
    78
    Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
    idk about my VR4 but the I cannot recall a time where the front end felt loose in the SL even the 1 time i pushed it to 150mph...

    I would like someone to correct me if I am wrong but it sounds like an alignment thing to me.

    if your tierods are bad, jack the car up and try to wiggle the wheel left-right but do not make them turn. if it has alot of play you need tie rods. do this on each side

  3. #3
    Member verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    Oct '08 - Oct '10

    Location
    Royersford, PA
    Posts
    3,814
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    1,059
    Thanked 442 Times in 317 Posts
    1/4-1/2 inch play in the rack?

    Jacking the control arms up doesn't prove much, you need to pry them and yank them around. Same for the tie rods (inners & outers) and the balljoints. Any slop that you easily notice with your hands is unacceptable and should be replaced.

    If you replace the inner tie rod ends and the rack has that much slop, it needs replaced ASAP.
    R135
    ╚╬╬╝
    - 24

  4. #4
    Never finishes any verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2001

    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    2,518
    Thanks
    51
    Thanked 197 Times in 140 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by DocWalt View Post
    1/4-1/2 inch play in the rack?

    Jacking the control arms up doesn't prove much, you need to pry them and yank them around. Same for the tie rods (inners & outers) and the balljoints. Any slop that you easily notice with your hands is unacceptable and should be replaced.

    If you replace the inner tie rod ends and the rack has that much slop, it needs replaced ASAP.
    I should have been more specific, Steering wheel moving 1/4-1/2 inch before the wheels begin to turn. I think this is referred to as the steering dead spot we have in our racks.

    Tie rod ends are about 6 months old.

    Also forgot to mention the pasenger side wheel bearing was replaced with a good used one. Last time the car was aligned we found the wheel bearing bad. So I swapped it out with another one.

  5. #5
    Never finishes any verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2001

    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    2,518
    Thanks
    51
    Thanked 197 Times in 140 Posts
    Jacking the control arms up means that the inner bushing are still tight. So if everything connected to the lower control arm is disconnected expect the rear 2 mounts. I can't pull the control arm up with my hands due to the rear bushing being tight. I have to use a jack to get it ti pivot back up into place to bolt it to the strut.

  6. #6
    Member verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    Oct '08 - Oct '10

    Location
    Royersford, PA
    Posts
    3,814
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    1,059
    Thanked 442 Times in 317 Posts
    Ah, ok, that's normal then. Being new doesn't mean too much, I've had new parts fail in short time frames.

    Not being able to easily move the LCA up and down easily doesn't mean too much. My rear bushings were completely shot but it felt "normal" moving it up and down. Once I replaced the bushings it was obvious what was wrong. How many miles are on your rear LCABs?

  7. #7
    Never finishes any verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2001

    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    2,518
    Thanks
    51
    Thanked 197 Times in 140 Posts
    I have no clue how many miles where on the frame when I acquired it.

    Previous registration/inspection showed 78k which was a couple years prior to me getting the frame. I set the Odometer to the engine though which is at 148k

  8. #8
    Member verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    Oct '08 - Oct '10

    Location
    Royersford, PA
    Posts
    3,814
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    1,059
    Thanked 442 Times in 317 Posts
    Ok. In my experience any little slop feels terrible at speed, so you'll just need to shake things up when you're down there replacing the half shaft. Any idea how old the strut mounts are?

    FWIW After I rebuilt my front end with all new bushings and a new rack I was comfortable going as fast conditions would allow, which was well above the speeds you were tuning at.

  9. #9
    Never finishes any verified

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    2001

    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    2,518
    Thanks
    51
    Thanked 197 Times in 140 Posts
    Strut mounts are good. They were all replaced when I redid the suspension and got the ECS system working with the new controller.

    I hope to get it up in the air tomorrow after work. I'll get some videos of what everything looks like then.

  10. #10
    DR-750 club Not Verified
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Owner Since
    I could drive.

    Location
    Portland, Texas
    Posts
    2,546
    Thanks
    96
    Thanked 172 Times in 124 Posts
    Reading this thread title, I thought this was going to be about Corey's mother..
    July 2014 COTM
    We follow the earth. The earth follows the stars. The stars know their way and though the body dies. The stars will remain, like the waves of the sea and restless slate.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
The 3000GT/Stealth/GTO Web History Project
3000gt.com
3000GT / Stealth International WWWboard Archive
Jim's (RED3KGT) Reststop
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Information and Resources
Team 3S
3000GT / Stealth / GTO Information
daveblack.net
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Clubs and Groups
Michigan 3S
MInnesota 3S
Wisconsin 3S
Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas 3S
North California 3000GT/Stealth
United Society of 3S Owners
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Forums
3000GT/Stealth International
3000GT/Stealth/GTO Event Pages
3S National Gathering
East Coast Gathering
Upper Mid-West Gathering
Blue Ridge Gathering