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CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
"Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" ..

Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
where pics?
You'll be fine.I should be well past that on the stock motor and haven't had any issues the past few thousand miles. If your tune is good the car seems to stay happy. It just takes more constant awareness of what's going on and knowing limitations. When I pull the motor to swap in a 5-speed I plan to check the bearings again out of curiosity since I had some high 20+ knock runs mid 20s boost where the LCD BC was giving me fits overboosting.
I hadn't noticed that it stated that but I think the operative thing there is PERFECT tune and maintenance. I personally wouldn't feel safe doing that, which is why Jack's is building my shortblock with Ross pistons, Pampena wrist pins, and Crower rods. I'm not sure where Jack's sees that you could get 800whp out of stock parts but if they are NEW I would be more likely to believe it.
1995 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo
Mods: DR750s, BC Sportsman rods, Ross pistons, ACT HD 6 puck clutch, 5 speed transmission, 300M output shaft, Broomfield racing billet transfer case housings, Spectre air filter, GM 3.75" MAF w/translator, DN Pre-turbo pipes, Pampena/CX Racing dual core FMIC, M2 Performance turbo-back exhaust, Walbro 450lph E85 pump, SXPerformance fuel filter, stainless fuel feed lines, EK2 Mfg fuel rails, SXPerformance AFPR, 1000cc Bosch injectors, 99 VR4 replica ECU w/ Chrome for tuning, Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark, Blitz SBC i-D boost controller, IPS oil cooler, Intrax springs on KYB GR2 struts, Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +30, Nexen N3000s, 99 front end, carbon fiber steering wheel, Pioneer AVH-X2600BT, JL C2 6.5" and 6"x9" speakers, free 4 channel amp for subs (LOL), twin Alpine 10" type E subs.
Made 608whp/631wtrq on Pampena's dyno @ 31 psi.
IDK, I'm sitting with a broken stock engine that only made 275AWHP.
Matt made the most hp on a stock motor I believe just over 700AWHP. He also ran the fastest with a high 9. I think all I have to break for the stock motor TD04 record is probably about 610-615AWHP which shouldn't be too hard at my current boost.
So, no one has told me what it is that is so expensive to get to 600 whp that costs me 15-18k$. So lets say I figure new parts costs, 3000$ for engine (stock OEM jack block or performance engine components and rebuild myself), 3200$ for turbos, 1500$ FMIC, 700$ gaskets/studs/belts/hoses/mounts/tuneup, 1000$ for transmission work (already have stage 3 clutch) , 500$ for 650cc injectors, 1000$ in tuning/ecm reflash, 600$ in misc... I'm at 11,500 using all new parts. I know I can buy a lot of these parts used, lets say 2500$ for turbos, 1000$ for new wrist pins,studs, etc/machine shop work/porting of stock engine and heads, 1000$ FMIC, 700$ eng misc, 1000$ trans, 300$ for used injectors, I really cant imagine a custom tune/ecu flash for my car being more than 300$, and 600$ in misc parts...thats more like 7400$ that leaves 2600$ for paint and body work. I know these numbers dont have taxes or shipping, but still...I don't see where the extra cost is coming from? I pulled the new prices from our vendors and guesstimated the used parts prices...What am I missing? Thanks :-)
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