No spark, help!

[Steve '92ES]

I'm not sure that my car even has OBDI. Isn't it too old?

Nope, you have OBDI. What you're too old for is OBDII (96+)

And doesn't the check engine light have to stay on to pick up the code?

Not necessarily. Some codes are stored, some are not. Its defiantly worth checking. RL7 linked you to the procedure, just keep in mind you MUST use either an analog meter as shown, or a low voltage test light.

I know my dad has one but I think it is OBDII only but I could be wrong.

Chances are its OBDII and won't work for you.

This is a SOHC with a cap and rotor. right? How old is the tune-up? (Plugs, wires, cap, & rotor)

[OhioSpyderman]

Woot...Steve '92ES on the job!!!!

Bob.

[Lithium]

The only reason why I asked if the check engine light was on is to make sure the ECU is getting power. My next step would be to check crank/ cam shaft sensors and the connections at the Ignition module. Use a multimeter to check the harness for broken wires before you jump the gun on your ECU.


You will be able to find all the info you need here http://www.stealth316.com/0-home.htm



Sorry, Im clueless when it come to SOHC ignore me.

[DeadOhioSky39]

OK from the looks of it, the capacitors are fine. At least compared to the leaky ones on the Stealth316 guide which is good considering the spare ecu I have is for a DOHC car.






Yes it has a cap and rotor. We replaced the cap last night and it didn't change anything. I was thinking we've done the rotor in the last year but I could be wrong. I ran into a problem awhile ago where as soon as you tapped the brakes it would cut the power to the car for a split second. You could hear it click and the radio would start to shut off and come right back on. I still don't know what that was from. It just quit doing it one day. I'm really not sure on when the plugs and wires were replaced.

I've been around for quite awhile (on the old site) but having a DD base I've never had much to contribute. I met quite a few nice guys at the Indianapolis NG back in the day but haven't really kept up with it much. But I appreciate everyone trying to help.

[colt45 gto]

the coil is at the back of the plenum, i believe the wires get real hot round there and go brittle. make sure the wires didn't break on the coil or leading to it.

[OhioSpyderman]

The only reason why I asked if the check engine light was on is to make sure the ECU is getting power. My next step would be to check crank/ cam shaft sensors and the connections at the Ignition module. Use a multimeter to check the harness for broken wires before you jump the gun on your ECU.


You will be able to find all the info you need here http://www.stealth316.com/0-home.htm



Sorry, Im clueless when it come to SOHC ignore me.

You put in your opinion...nothing wrong with that...at least you responded

I was wrong (have been on numerous occasions, but when it comes to first gen no spark issues, I always ask about the state of the ECU first...).

Good info David

Bob.

P.S.: I agree with your assessment of the ECU...I think those are replacement caps as well (I believe ALL of the bad capacitors were BLACK in color, and I see a blue one in the pic [also the others look rather new as well]).

[colt45 gto]

i might not be right but its worth checking. i had to replace a few connectors around there on a car or two.

[DeadOhioSky39]

Checked the codes with the analog meter. It does the same thing that the video on 316 does for no error or normal code. just sweeps back and forth. So i'm guessing that means it's not storing the codes that was making the check engine light come on. I've unplugged the battery since driving it so I don't know if that would have erased in codes it was storing or not. I guess the next step is to check crank/ cam shaft sensors and the connections at the Ignition module as lithium suggested. I think the wires at the coil are fine.

[DeadOhioSky39]

Do you guys know what other motors would have a crank sensor that is interchangeable with mine? I know my brothers 2000 Eclipse has the 3.0 v6 but I don't know if it's all the same. The reason I am asking is because all the crank sensors i'm finding from auto parts places are $350 bucks. I'd hate to spend the money on one if it doesn't fix the problem and then not be able to take it back. I was hoping to be able to go to a junk yard and snag one off of a car there to see if that worked.

[RL7]

You can test the sensor with a multimeter. Hook it to the sensor wire and the ground and pass a piece of metal through it. The voltage should change when you do that. It's not much, like 0.5V or something like that. You can also turn the engine by hand and monitor the signal at the connector. That's probably a better way.