sorry it's a 6sp i'm asking about.
As stated above transfer case is the same. Rear differential ratio is the same as the 5 speed so change tail shaft and diff is easier than opening the box to change front diff. That will also most likely void any warranty you have on it.
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1990 JDM GTO TT with Vi-PEC plug-in V44 EMS, TD04-13T's, 3SX Downpipe, MP Hi-flow cat, ARC SMIC's, Aeromotive Stealth 340LPH pump, Fuelab 515 FPR, Ninja Performance 75amp hotwire kit, oohnoo fuel loop & rail adapters, Nylon braided ethanol fuel line, NGK AFX Wideband, K&N FIPK, Iridium plugs, HKS Twin Power DLI, Turbo XS racing BOV, 3SX poly mounts, Custom 280km/h speedo.
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Injector Dynamics 725cc Injectors.
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Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace
ok thanks guys, lastly how would you know for sure that your transmission is bad, and how would you know if your transfer case is bad as well. My transmission grinds 2nd and 4th when shifting at about 3k rpm and above and when down shift into 2nd, so is it for sure that it is bad?
By the way, i haven't purchased anything yet. I'm asking this so i would know which route to take and which route would be more cost effective. Thanks again
Sounds like all you need is new syncros, get some quotes from reputable 3S shops that work on these gearboxes (Ninja, GZP, 3SX, Jacks, Kormex etc).
The difference in the driveshafts is only like 3/4". You can use either in either in a pinch and even on a 13t car launching hard no issues were had, other drivetrain parts break before you can strip out the yoke.
BTW, it's the front section that's different.
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