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Thread: Headgasket replacement questions

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    Headgasket replacement questions

    I've only been able to find MLS headgaskets for this platform, are Composite gaskets not available? If not do the head and block need to be machine every time you do a headgasket swap? Personally I hate MLS gaskets because of the fact you have to machine the head and block and for me that means shipping it out since the machine shops around here can't figure out how to properly surface anything for a MLS gasket.

    Not really sure how to check the RA of my block and heads.
    1993 Talon TSi AWD (Auto)
    2g Block/Head, Evo IX Internals, 16g, Bolt-ons
    1996 3000gt VR-4
    Jack Stand Balla

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    The 91-92 cars had the composite gaskets. I did not machine my block when switching to MLS, but the heads were fresh from a machine shop. You should not have to surface them every time unless they are warped. Your car already has a MLS gasket from the factory, so I would just measure for trueness.

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    Yeah I was gonna check for warp. Hopefully the parts car heads I pulled will be good enough for a MLS.

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    I have a spare set of composite gaskets around here...

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    Rockauto doesnt seem to carry any Fel-Pro other than MLS. DNJ is junk and I've never used either of the other brands they have. Honestly would prefer a fel-pro composite as I know personally how well they hold up, and how easily they seal.

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    Not sure if it helps you but Evergreen composites bought off ebay held 25psi on my 3.0; I did have the block oringed though.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

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    I prefer MLS, and use them in every motor I build. Fel-Pro and O.E. have both been very reliable...

    As long as the surfaces are flat and smooth, without any damage or pitting in the fire ring area, you should be fine. If you have minor pitting around the water jackets, or can't get the surfaces to the recommended R/A, it's ok to use a thin coat of sealer such as hylomar or Copper Coat. As long as you don't overdue it, it can prevent any unwanted seepage.

    I know I'll probably get a lot of crap for saying that, but I've done a lot of research on the subject, on multiple platforms, from modular Fords to DSM's, and the consensus is; That in a perfect world it should never be necessary, but I've never seen or heard of it causing a failure if properly applied...


    Real Performance Automotive (541)816-4500 www.FB.com/RealPerformanceAuto

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    You can get Felpro Composites from Autozone for about $60.00 for the set. They are good HG's and I am currently running them on the TT 10:1 in my car right now.

    The engine I am building right now I am using the Felpro MLS HG kit from RockAuto. Some things OEM I will not cut corners on like the Oil pump or Tensioner. HG's on the other hand I have some flexibility on. Felpro is a major brand and used by major companies I trust their name and expertise in their gaskets. For all I know they could be superior to OEM. I mean OEM were designed 20 years ago. Technology and Science has come a long way in 20 years.

    I just have a hard time believing that 20 years has passed and nobody can make parts as good or better than OEM quality......

    And I completely agree with your statement RealMcCoy!

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    Allright guys, thanks for the insight. I know fel-pro make great gaskets. I've used them going on 10 years now, on multiple platforms, and the only time I had any premature failures were due to improper gasket surface or surface contamination and not defects in the gasket itself.

    One last question I had, I believe I read somewhere that 3000gt headbolts are not Torque to Yield and it is okay to re-use them if you check them for stretch. I was thinking of going with a set of ARP studs, but if the bolts are not TTY I will probably re-use them.

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    Correct, they are not TTY. I have re-used mine before without issues.

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