
2014 Exomotive Exocet - #101 "shocker yellow" - 1.8L 5-speed 3.9 torsen FMII powered
Read more: http://mevowners.proboards.com/threa.../greg-pa-build
99 Solano Black VR4 - #16 of 287 - ground up restoration - sold
98 Pearl White VR4 #54 of 231 - 12.84@105mph - 93 Octane 12.50@107mph - 100 Octane with Chromed ECU - sold
99 Pearl White VR4 #108 of 287 - 3RD place stock car class ECG 11 - Sold
98 Black VR4: 100% stock - totalled by an Illegal 2-12-08
95 White Stealth TT - 11.852 @ 118.25 - sold
95 SSG Stealth TT - 11.981 @ 115.81mph - sold
"I don't actually work on cars, I just talk about them on the internet."
Both possibilities seem miniscule. Gregs file being corrupt would be less so. I've flashed my ecu's many times and without a charger and on a low battery. Luckily I haven't bricked anything yet, but that is why I have a test ecu that I always preflash my rom to. Just in case something somewhere goes wrong.
I would suggest everyone who flashes gets a battery charger to ensure a proper flash. Not worth having to go back and fix a brick.
So I've seen plenty about using a battery charger when flashing but I haven't found any specifics. What amperage would be ideal? I'll be using a Schumacher XC75 which has 75 amp start/20-10 amp rapid charge/3 amp slow charge. I would assume I would use the rapid charge setting during a flash and wouldn't have to be concerned with overcharging a new or fully charged battery (this charger has circuit to protect anyhow) or introducing noise into the electrical system?

With the big flashes like completely new versions I would have it on the 10 amp charge just to be safe. With the short flashes I just fire the car up and let it idle for 2 minutes or so, then shut it off and flash. I've also flashed plenty of times without doing either of those things, but of course I wouldn't recommend it.
Parting 6 speed
Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

The thing to take out of this discussion is that you can't trust any old ECU to flash peoperly. You should just buy a clone from Brett or Adam as any hardware issues will be fixed/warranted.
TDLR;
Friday buys junk yard board
Friday flashes junk yard board with battery tender and ECU still bricks
Friday opens the chrome XML to verify the correct processor type and accidentally deletes a character.
ECUFlash can no long read the chrome file
Friday sends ECU to Brett and Brett finds to board to be corroded
Friday buys new clone from Brett
Charger sends Friday new XML which enables ECUFlash to read chrome again
Flash of the same .bin file goes perfectly and Friday is happy.
Greg stands no chance at hooking up with Lady Gaga.
Last edited by Greg E; 02-01-2013 at 11:04 AM.

damn now I want some tacos
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