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Thread: Black Stealth LCD install

  1. #1
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    Black Stealth LCD install

    I've had quite a few people ask me for info so thought I'd go ahead and post this here. If people still want me to install it I guess I could be persuaded but I'm busy these days so I'm not too eager to do it anymore.

    Info on taking the cluster apart
    http://www.3sgto.org/f2/how-remove-t...ter-10625.html

    Starting off, I did cut these out before with a die grinder and cutting wheel but some dykes and needle nose pliers works better and doesn't get a bunch of plastic dust everywhere.




    You want to grind this pin down some. Hard to fit it in if you don't.




    Next cut the plastic piece behind the tach face. I cut this one to high but it doesn't hurt anything. You only need to cut to the bottom of the hole not the top.





    Take that nice new LCD screen and grind it up like this lol, you might need to shave the bottom a bit more later. Be careful not to go crazy when doing this. You don't want to damage the LCD.



    Last edited by green-lantern; 03-25-2013 at 07:01 AM.

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    Now the tedious part, mark it like this with a straight edge.




    You need a piece of wood with thin cardboard. drill a hole for the peg.




    Use a straight edge and an x acto-knife to cut the part out. Be careful and score it some, take your time because you will be looking at this hole every time you drive the car. You don't want it to be ugly.







    Use a putty knife and screwdriver with sandpaper wrapped around them to make the hole as perfect as you can.



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    Use a vice to hold the LCD. Put superglue around the top of the black part of the LCD then just set the gauge face down onto it carefully. I like to light it up so I can get it straight as possible. Don't go crazy with the superglue, it can stain the screen if you use too much.





    Cut a place for the wires to come out. Test fit it some, grind trim anything that is putting it in a bind.





    Then just put it back together





    If you have any questions just let me know.

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    Great guide, this is what I followed.
    July 2014 COTM
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    Quote Originally Posted by FeaRpb View Post
    Great guide, this is what I followed.
    Thanks, I put your link in there also. good info

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    Still doing this service? And how much was it again?

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


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    Nice guide, man! Thanks for taking the time to do this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthify View Post
    Nice guide, man! Thanks for taking the time to do this.
    Thanks, I might of left a few things vague but if anybody has any questions I'll try and clear it up. I'm just expanding Antero's instructions a bit.

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    I wish I would have thought about using sandpaper after cutting out the hole when I did mine. Nobody comments on it in the car but I can tell the hole isn't as straight as it needs to be. Even using a steel ruler and a brand new knife you still have to be very very careful when you're scoring it. I think I rushed it too much or I could have had a better product. I also installed my rotary knob in the ECS button location. I used some of the stock parts sent with the lcd bc but boy it sure was a pita getting the board mounted in the black box that housed those two buttons without losing the functionality of the buttons. I would do it over again if I gave it some more thought. There isn't as much to grab ahold of with the ECS button as there needs to be.
    95 RT/TT Billet TD04s E70, DW1000cc injectors, ARC-2 with 92mm maf, 3SX fuel rail loop, hotwired Walbro 416/485, 3" FMIC, single small Krank vent, DR 3.5" downpipe and cat-back, DNP 02 housings, Hallman Pro MBC, BlackStealth LCDBC, AEM wideband, AEM oil pressure, Apexi S1 coilovers with SCE EVO 8/9 adapters, 3SX adjustable control arms, Spec 3+ clutch, Maximal solids/3SX poly motor mounts, Setrab custom SMOC, stock motor 127k miles, stock drivetrain.

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    Yeah I didn't use the sandpaper when I did mine but I got it good enough where it didn't bother me. When doing others I thought about the sandpaper.

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