Slightly tweaked 3000GT TT

[lawdogg]

Car looks phenomenal, that track day looked like a blast. Psyched to hear about how well the cooling mods worked, and a cool mix of cars too. Shame about the tires / brakes though. At least your fluid didn't boil over.

Wondering why you went straight to a BBK - did you consider just running a track compound pad like a Carbotech XP#?

Also I like this pic too ...

[Unlogic]

Car looks phenomenal, that track day looked like a blast.

Wondering why you went straight to a BBK - did you consider just running a track compound pad like a Carbotech XP#

Thanks

The reason I went with a BBK is because I've been tracking the car at least once each summer for quite a few years. I've installed steel braided lines, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, thicker discs and better pads. But I've come to the conclusion that even with all these mods and the MR cooling ducts (stock on this euro spec car) the stock sized discs are simply too small causing them to get very hot. This leads to increased wear on a lot of the surrounding parts not to mention the discs themselves.

The brakes don't stop working with the current EBC discs and pads I'm using but the temperature of the brakes are just too hot for my liking. For example I've stopped replacing the dust boots on the calipers now since they tend to burn up anyway after 10 laps...

[lawdogg]

Thanks - understood, hopefully those big rotors stay cooler! Which size did you go with?

[Unlogic]

I ordered slotted, floating 355mm discs. Hopefully this will be my final brake upgrade on this car.

[anyonebutme]

I don't even run ducting on mine anymore. I'll probably end up with MR style deflectors at most.

[green-lantern]

I don't even run ducting on mine anymore. I'll probably end up with MR style deflectors at most.

I was going to do something like yours but decided it didn't need it. I have the MR deflectors though. I'm still thinking of running ducting to the rears.

[akotten]

About 1200 shipped.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Wow. That's why I run a 17" now. They only weigh about 16.5lb and the tires are about $800 shipped.

[green-lantern]

Wow. That's why I run a 17" now. They only weigh about 16.5lb and the tires are about $800 shipped.

That's why I went for the hankook's, they were 700 shipped for the 18's. I wanted the dunlop's but I'm a cheap bastard

[Unlogic]

Took a closer look at my front brakes today while I was changing oil in the gearbox.

My front brakes must have gotten really hot last time I went to the track!



I had to pry the centering ring for my alloys from the hub and disc using a knife since it has partially melted...



Think I'm gonna try to stay off the track until my new brakes arrive.

[Unlogic]

My AC has been getting weaker and weaker over the past years. I guess that it's due to the gaskets drying up when I store the car during the winter months even though I usually start the car at least once a month.

Ordered some R134 online and topped of the system today. Only had to add about 200 grams before the air coming out of the AC was down to 7°C.



I used a simple indoor/outdoor thermometer with the outdoor probe stuck inside one of the vents to keep track of the air temperature inside the car. In order to keep track of how much gas I had put into the system I used a simple digital scale to weigh the bottle. This "ghetto" setup worked fine and it only took about 5 minutes of careful filling to get the system running at full force again.



Next I did a vacuum reduction on the car. I kept the FPR solenoid and the boost solenoid. I highlighted the rest in red on diagram to make it easier to see what could be removed.



It's amazing how much stuff that can remove from the engine bay of these cars without any real functional degradation.



The final result. It felt really good to get rid of all the hoses around the throttle body and behind the plenum.



Took the car for a test drive afterwards and everything seemed to work normally and I got no CEL warnings.

I remember reading that there was a reduction in the hose from the y-pipe to the solenoid so I cut up the stock hose and found this. The hole in that reduction is really tiny!



Does anyone know what the purpose of that reduction is? Is it there to even out boost spikes?

I inserted the reduction into the new silicone hose that I replaced the stock hose with just to be on the safe side.

When I mounted a Defi boost gauge last year I've noticed that the boost on my car is not linear at all. If I floor it on 4th gear starting from 2000 rpm my boost will peak at about 14 psi when I hit 3000 rpm and then slowly decrease to about 9 psi when I get closer to redline. Is this really normal for a "stock" car?

On all other turbo cars I've had the boost has been pretty linear or progressively increased with rpm.

I'm suspecting that the reduction could be the culprit since it reduces the the airflow to the wastegates causing a slight delay in the pressurization of the actuators.