Slightly tweaked 3000GT TT

[GTOJOE]

PMs replied to.

To add to the list above I ran a couple of vin numbers and compared part numbers.

For a 92 model the original turbo part numbers are

MD188641 which where replaced with MD302924 then again replaced with MD306222

MD188642 which where replaced with MD303529 then again replaced with MD306226

For a 95 model the part numbers are the MD306222 & MD306226. Both are LHD Euro spec models. I also ran a vin for a 92 RHD Euro spec and got the same part numbers as the LHD model.

The MD306222 and MD306226 turbos are 49177-90310 and 49177-90410 which are 11G turbos. So we assume that the earlier part numbers are also 11G. If anyone else has a euro spec vin I can run I can check the models for you.

[GTOJOE]

For anybody interested here is a thread I created in 2010 showing how to install 4 different versions of Mitsubishi ASA.

http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-...-jdm-usdm.html

[Unlogic]

Thanks for all the info Joe, I'll have to install ASA tonight.

[mehrshadvr4]

Yea the stereo was probably rocket science with fiber optics, GPS, TV and whatever they stuffed in there. Just the installation of the system itself must have cost a fortune since they basically disassembled the whole interior of the car and at least one front fender in order to install all the cabling.

Regarding the clutch damping I have no clue what they where up to when the designed what I call the snake nest.

GTOJOE, I noticed that none of the "VIN decoders" online for the 3S platform seems to work with our European VIN numbers. If you manage to look them up it would be great!

i have an idea. give your clutch line system to Taz and see if he start breaking parts less often.that way we know it does work.

[GTOJOE]

From what I can tell they didn't sell the 3000GT in Europe until 1992 and all of them have the 4 bolt mains and forged crank. Still haven't come across a vin number that has 13Gs.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[VR4Rob]

Awesome thread!!!!

[Unlogic]

different rear bumper too, extra lower front crash bar etc... wiring of many things is very different vs USDM specs. not all but many of the german/euro specs got the 13g turbos, they were an option but in the southern EU countries like in Spain and Italy very few cars had the option.

the part numbers for the "EU" spec turbos are

_Turbo Assy_____Core_______Model__
49177-02410 49377-08020 TD04-11G-6
49177-02310 49377-08020 TD04-11G-6

49177-90420 49377-08040 TD04-13G-6
49177-90320 49377-08040 TD04-13G-6

Took some photos of my turbos today and the numbers don't match any of those mentioned above although they are close.



Here is a photo of the front turbo which has the number 49177-00310 on it. One digit has been milled it seems while the others are cast. Looks a bit odd.



Here is a photo of the rear turbo.

[Unlogic]

Spent some time in the garage today with the intention to replace a few engine mounts.

I followed this very good tutorial written by Eric Gross: 1995 3000GT VR-4: 3SX Polyurethane Motor Mounts Installation



Everything started of smoothly and the transaxle mount came off in no time. The old mount looked just fine so this was a preemptive replacement so to speak.

Getting the new transaxle mount back in place was a bit trickier.



To line up the new mount vertically I kept my eyes on the mount while I slowly lifted up the transaxle using the jack below which I controlled using my right foot.




To line everything up horizontally required more brute force so I covered the end of a crow bar with tape in order to protect the color of the engine mount and the pulled on it until I could get the cotter pin in.



Next I moved to the front engine mount but as I was started looking at the radiator I noticed that someone had removed it before cause the bottom rubber mounts supposed to keep it in place where missing so the radiator could move around a few centimeters...

Does anybody have a spare set of these rubber mount or does anyone know where they can be bought?





In order to save some time and reduce the spillage of coolant I decided to drain the radiator using the small drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Turned out this was the slow way to do it since it took almost 20 minutes before water stopped dripping out of the small drain valve.

I expected my radiator to be in as bad condition as my old intercoolers however to my surprice it was in great condition.



Front mount removed. This mount also looked fine so I guess that some previous owner of the car must have replaced these mounts before I bought the car in 2007.





When I had the radiator out of the way I got the chance to look closer at the front turbo and manifold. Almost immediately I noticed 3-4 cm long crack in one of the welds of the manifold. These made me really angry... not because the crack itself but because I knew right away what had caused it!

The one and only time I've ever had someone do anything on any of my cars was in 2010 when I dropped my 3000GT of at a member of the Swedish 3000GT to have the gearbox renovated and mount precat eliminators. Not only did the gearbox renovation fail but the precat eliminators that were fitted had a very bad fitment. Even though my car has a tig weleded stainless steel exhaust with double flex pipes it was really tricky to get the downpipes to line up with the precat eliminators. When everything was tightened up it put a lot of strain on the manifolds so I had planned to removed the precats later on, chop them up and weld them back together.

However when I saw the crack I realized that I was too late and that the damage was already done...

[Unlogic]

I removed the two bolts from the heat shield but I couldn't remove the heat shield completely (guess you need to remove the alternator in order to do that?). Anyway in order to get a better look a raided my wifes make up kit and found two mirrors that I used to inspect the rest of the manifold.



I couldn't find any other cracks so brought out my ESAB friend and decided to see if I could weld the crack I had found without removing the manifold and everything around it.







It was tight but not impossible although a part of the crack was only visible using a mirror I decided it was worth a try.





I was so tricky to see what I was doing that I had to essentially weld the crack spot by spot. The final weld won't win any competition but hopefully it's enough to seal the crack.

I'm gonna continue with the two remaining engine mounts tomorrow and hopefully I won't come across any problems like these on the way...

[Ange]

Good job

I think the radiator bracket rubbers are here Radiator Support Brackets, Isolators, Bolts*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts

option "BUSH-6998" in the drop-down menu