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Thread: Slightly tweaked 3000GT TT

  1. #431
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    I went sideways with locked up tires at 150 km/h on very rough asphalt, chewed up my tires like they where made out of cheese.

  2. #432
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    I replaced all the stock speakers in my car a few years ago. That gave me great clear sound and decent bass as long as the engine was turned off. When I turned on the engine however the engine sound would muffle all the bass. In order to improve the situation av purchased a Bazooka BTA6250D subwoofer with an integrated 250 watt amplifier.



    In order to get a signal cable of the exact length I purchased cable and loose connectors.



    Added another cable for the remote signal.



    Routed the cables thought the drivers side cable tray.



    The quick connect cables on the amplifier which simplifies the process of removing the subwoofer during track events etc.



    The finished result with the subwoofer mounted by straps to the back of my battery box.



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    IPD

  4. #433
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    I never did get a sub in my 3/s. I did replace the 8" ported one (looks a lot like yours) with a 10" sealed downfiring one...and the results were great. But the 3/s does have less room though.

  5. #434
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    Here is an overdue update.

    I've been planning for some time to upgrade from my 8,5" rims with 245 tires to something a bit wider. I was pretty sure that this would require widebody front fenders so I bought a set of "Cianci" labeled widebody fenders from a Russian guy selling them on Instagram.

    When the package arrived it looked lite it had been through a couple of world wars but luckily the fenders inside were okay.






    Those who have been following this thread might remember that I participated in a hill climb competition last year. I really liked the concept so this year I contacted the organization which arranges the event and asked if I could invite the members of the Sweidsh 3000GT club. Said and done 9 members participated in the event even though some of the didn't bring their 3000GT's for various reasons. So we had Audi Q7, Evo X and a Ford Focus RS among us for that reason. The Audi Q7 did bloody well to be honest!








    Last year I won my class at this event on the second day. This year I matched my best time from last year in the first run I did but the competition was even faster. After studying the competition I realized the other drivers where launching their cars while I was not.

    I rarely launch my car but I decided to give it a try on the second race day and right away I set the fastest time in the whole class.





    During my last run I launch the car again but a bit harder this time. This caused my ABS to light up the warning light and disable itself which I didn't notice until it was time to break after the main straight...



    I killed all four of my Michel Pilot Supersport tires right there and then...

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  7. #435
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    Last season I had the line to the boost solenoid connected after the water methanol injector nozzle. This caused all sorts of nasty corrosion in various places so I moved the connection on the y-pipe before the nozzle and replaced all the lines and the waste gate actuators last winter. However I didn't replace the solenoid which proved to be a mistake because the day before the hill climb competition it jammed in the middle of race session on the local circuit which cause me to reach 1,77 bar of boost well before 4000 rpm (!). Luckily the overboost alarm on the LCDBC saved me so I caught the issue right away.

    I managed to get the solenoid working again at the track by flushing it with WD40 and moving the plunger inside of it with a small piece of steel wire. However I didn't want to risk it jamming again so I ordered a new one and while I was at it I removed the bracket which used to hold the resistor pack for the fuel injectors.




    Since my tires where now trashed for the second time this season I decided to buy wider rims. And too my surprise the 18X9.5 ET30 rims with 265/35/18 tires fit just flush with car both front and rear without the need for any widebody fenders as long as I kept the camber above 2.2° on all four tires. They also cleared my Öhlins coil overs in the front, not by much only 3 mm but it should be enough.









  8. #436
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    However there was one issue, the rear tires rubbing again the lip inside the fenders.



    So in order to fix that I got myself on of these fender rolling tools.



    However it seemed to be made for SUV's because with my short Öhlins coilovers the tool was way too long.




    I ended up modifying the tool in order so that it sits further down on the wheel hub.










    In the end the tool fitted properly and I got started on the fender rolling.



    The fender rolling halfway through, all I needed was to angle up the lip so I didn't roll the fenders as much as most people on the net do.



    Finished everything up with a wheel alignment since adjusting the camber on our cars affects the toe quite a lot.


  9. #437
    Great job and thanks for updates. I am enjoying to follow your car projects. Keep it up.

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  11. #438
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    wow can believe i never read this thread...glad I did. Its a great read!
    95 TD05 16G VR-4---540whp@24psi
    34XXlbs..

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  13. #439
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    I remember that there was some discussions in this thread a few years back when I built my rear diffuser regarding if it would work or not without a flat underbody. On that subject I find the article below very interesting:

    https://www.verus-engineering.com/si...ffuser-to-Work

  14. #440
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    I haven't updated this thread in a long time so here is a quick resume of this season.

    During the winter months I rebuilt a rare B4H hyrid wisco/torsen differential which I installed to cure the problem with my rear inner tire spinning during tight corners on some tracks. Big thanks to André Gysler who sold me this diff, they are not easy to find.





    The housing that the diff came in was in very bad shape and the bearing themselves in even worse shape. The bearings races had spun inside the case so I ended having to buy another diff and use the housing from that one and make a complete rebuild with new bearing and seals.



    While I was at it I installed a billet cover on the new diff




    The rebuild of the diff went smoothly but when I tried to install the right hand driveshaft I hit a snag...



    The hybrid diff uses a different driveshaft for the right side without the extension the normally protrudes into the visco diff. So I had to make a hybrid driveshaft using part from both a left and right driveshaft in order to get an axle that fitted properly.



    Here is a video of the wheel spin problem I had with the stock Visco diff.


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