Nice thread, I just put TEIN S Tech in the rear of my Stealth, still need to do the front. I am happy to see the stance you got out of them. Oh and the inside of your car, the paint in the rear when the interior was out is in AMAZING condition!!
Nice thread, I just put TEIN S Tech in the rear of my Stealth, still need to do the front. I am happy to see the stance you got out of them. Oh and the inside of your car, the paint in the rear when the interior was out is in AMAZING condition!!
We have the same problem here in New England, problem is most have still seen winter at some point, especially because they are AWD. Winter time is the time I like to spend working on mine. Wish mine was in anywhere near as clean condition as yours. Little by little I will get there.
Did some driving on the Mid Sweden Raceway which is located not very far away from where I live. On the way home my speedo started jumping upping and down and then finally it died. Simultaneously the active aero retracted so I knew right away that it was the sender unit in the gearbox...
It's time like this that it's good to have an extra gearbox on the garage shelf
Started by removing the sender from my old gearbox.
The sender is quite hard to get to when the gearbox is installed in the car so quite a bit of stuff has has to be removed before you can get even see it...
When the broken sender was within reach I unplugged the connector from it and put it on the sender from my old gearbox instead. Did I simple test by putting a 7mm socket and a short hose on a electric screwdriver to make sure that it was the sender that was broken and not some cable. Thankfully everything worked like it should and I managed to run the speedo up to 70 km/h using the screwdriver while my wife watched the speedo.
To actually remove the sender even more stuff has to be removed.
The senders compared to each other. Both of the looked fine from the outside so I must be the electronics inside that have given up.
I didn't bother taking them apart any further since I had one in working sender.
While I was working in the engine bay I replaced the hard wacum line going straight through the engine bay with a hose instead (thanks to Taz for the tip).
Now when the hard wacum line was out of the way I moved my Forge BOV from below the MAF to the Y-pipe. I'm not to found of bling under the hood but I quickly realized that finding a black silicon hose around where I live was essentially impossible. They were available in all colors of the rainbow except black so I finally settled on a black water hose from a SAAB and chopped of the 7cm bit I needed...
When that was done I proceeded to install a DEFI racer boost gauge I bought from Japan a while back. Spent some time planing how install in the most discrete way possible and at the same time getting the cable to the sensor through the firewall without too much work. I ended up mounting the sensor next to the brake booster.
The meter mounted on the A-pilar. I spliced into the stereo cables to power the gauge since I was well familiar with that wiring harness by now
Credit where credit is due. The growing pile of pages printed from stealth316.com that has started to collect in my garage. Jeff must have spent years taking his car apart and documenting all the odd bits and pieces!
When I bought my car back in 2007 the brake pads where almost completely worn down so I installed a set of EBC red stuff pads.
These pads worked great for a quite a few track days and even the brake got really hot I never noticed any fading. When I had a look at the brake discs in the spring of 2012 I noticed why... the compound in the brake pads was so hard that it was wearing down the rotors themselves just as much as the pads...
The old original discs which were all fine before installing the EBC red stuff pads, now totally worn out and full of grooves.
My brakes had been so hot that the dust boots on the calipers had melted. I ordered a new set from 3SX but decided against replacing them since they would probably melt again...
There were a few millimeters left on my old pads but judging from the cracks it was probably time to replace them.
EBC mentioned that they have changed the formula for the compound used in the red stuff brake pads a few years back in order to reduce rotor wear. However they still recommend upgraded rotors for the red stuff series. I decided to buy a new set of red stuff pads and new front rotors from EBC for a best match this time just to be on the safe side.
Mounting the noise shims on the new pads. If you compare them with the shims from my old pads you'll notice that they have changed from some rubber style shims to a more metal like material. Hopefully these shims won't melt like the old ones.
New rotors and pads installed.
However when I was finished replacing the brake pads and rotors I noticed the input shaft seal on my TC was leaking (the blueish redline shock proof oil is easy to spot) so now I had to find a new seal...easier said than done here in Sweden.
The short summer here in Sweden was quickly coming to an end but thanks to a fellow member of the Swedish 3000GT I was able to have a new TC input shaft seal manufactured in Stockholm and sent to me in just a few days.
The TC with the old seal in it.
The old seal removed, it was hard as plastic so no wonder it leaked...
Pressing down the new seal with a 36 millimeter socket after cleaning the groove and adding some grease.
While I was at it I also put some grease on the TC splines.
All went smoothly except the I had a hard time getting the TC of the pins on the gearbox. After crawling under the car so many times during this summer I decided it was time to buy a car lift for my garage...
Said and done, I drove 1200 km and picked up a cheap China made car lift.
Should make work on the car a lot easier
Temporary ramps in order to prevent the front spoiler from hitting the lift. My plan is to recess the lift into the floor later on.
On it's way up!
Only thing left now is to raise the roof of the garage so that I can use the full lifting height of the lift
Last edited by Unlogic; 01-13-2013 at 03:44 PM.
By now the short driving season (may - october) was over here in Sweden so I ordered some stuff from 3SX to keep me occupied during the winter months...
From what I have read the engine mounts, particular the rear one seems like hassle to change but we'll see.
Things don't always go as planned... instead of doing improvements and maintenence on the GT I ended up having to fix this...
An old man T-boned the red Volvo 940 that my wife uses for daily driving.
Made a deal with the insurance company to fix the car myself so I started by purchasing some body solder. A skill I learned when I widened the rear wheel arches of an old Volvo 760 I had many years ago.
Next I headed over to the junk yard and managed to buy a new door for a really good price. It even had the right color so I would only have to repaint the outside of it.
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