Electrical Help

[Rakuny]

Since before last winter I noticed my battery would deplete itself (brand new battery) if I let the car sit for a week or 2. This has continued to go on and actually I had forgotten about it with all the down-time my car had and then driving it over the summer..

Anyway 2 weeks after I put the car in storage this year the battery was dead and required a jump. Also, I noticed a lot of corrosion around the positive terminal. . I had purchased another new battery (Diehard gold full size this time) last summer since the depletion of the lightweight battery killed it..

I have now noticed that my power windows no longer work. Keep in mind they worked fine when I put it in storage. and the other issue has been going on since before I did electrical work on the car.

Any idea's what might be causing this?

Edit: I believe everything to be properly grounded and the voltage I'm getting is what it should be. I actually added an extra ground to the alternator last summer.

[B-Man]

The power window relay is located in a relay panel behind the interior fuse block. I forget which one it is exactly, but it's a common relay.

Joe, 90-91's didn't have power forward and back. Only 92+ models

I'd ask if your power seats were working, but I know you don't have those

There's also a 30 amp fuse in under hood.

[Toni]

Well a depleting battery sounds like something is shorting out. My memory is fuzzy but I thought the IOD connector was supposed to allow long term storage without draining the battery if it was in the disconnect position. People have problems with it and the wiring shorting out. I know I did and had to bypass the whole IOD circuit which is basically two wires from the fuse box under the dash to the IOD in the box under the hood then back to the fuse box under the dash. I can't recall if that causes battery draining problems or not.

Your best bet is probably to put a current meter inline with the battery and see how much juice it's drawing then start pulling fuses to see what changes.

[95gto]

The IOD allows you to store the car long term by cutting the constant memory feed to the car's factory electronics, it cuts power completely to stuff like the AC and radio IIRC.

Questions to OP:

Before noticing the draw have you installed aftermarket electronics like car audio equipment, aftermarket car security, etc? Large stiffening capacitors will also help this process along. But basically anything that required you make a constant power connection will be sucking your battery dry when the car is off.

The best solution for long term storage with a modified car is to either install a battery minder or to disconnect one of the battery terminals.

[box]

Charge the battery and have it tested first, no point chasing electrical gremlins if your battery is a dud. Also what size battery is in the car? If its had a smaller battery fitted (not sure what battery sizes you use up there), obviously there's going to be less time needed for it to drain before it is unable to start a cold 3L engine than if the correct one is fitted.

Your best bet is to put a current meter inline with the battery and see how much juice it's drawing then start pulling fuses to see what changes.

This. Often its an aftermarket radio, amplifier, security system or other accessory that has been fitted to the car, whether they be faulty or incorrectly wired (e.g. people wiring to constant +12v instead of acc or ignition supplies).

Clean up/replace your terminals, give the battery a good charge and check the current draw. With the key out of the ignition and the car locked/alarm armed, you should see less than 0.05A. Then start pulling fuses. Check the obvious first like courtesy lights, boot light, glove box light etc.