Cleanest Way to Run Fuel Pump Hotwire

**RL7** · 09-28-2010, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by HLxDrummer

RL7 could you explain a little more? I'm slightly confused without actually looking at it.

I will either run it completely with the stock wiring so I don't have to have it sticking out of the access panel or run it behind the battery/door sill/trim/etc.

I'm more or less going by this diagram. I don't really like the wire passing into the access panel either. I didn't actually dig back there to do it this way, but it seems like it could be a better way.
TrunkElec.jpg

**HLxDrummer** · 09-28-2010, 05:45 PM

I see what you saying now. Looks kinda like it goes behind the trim then through a grommet to the tank, huh? I like this idea but not sure how much of a PITA it would be to install this way outside my apartment with no jack/stands.. Also kind of worry about having a relay right on top of the fuel tank, unless I put it inside the car behind the panels but then that's more soldering..

Decisions decisions..

**Austin@STM** · 09-28-2010, 05:53 PM

It works out nicely running it down from the battery and following the PS lines that run under the car, you can get it up inside the plastic cage, and then up on top of the tank so it doesnt go through anything. That would be a nice clean way of doing it, without taking half the car apart.

Otherwise like has been mentioned, run it with all the other harnesses, so that it just looks like its part of it. Thats why we include some wire loom in our kit so any where ethe wire is visible, you can cover it with black loom and it looks just like the factory wire harness, instead of a big red wire hanging out on its own.

**HLxDrummer** · 09-28-2010, 07:39 PM

Thanks for the input Austin. I'm not too keen on running power wires under the car that far and I'm sure all the bolts holding up that plastic will break but I'll keep it in mind haha.

Does anyone know how the stock wiring goes? The diagram makes it seem like there is a grommet behind one of the plastic panels and the wiring runs on the interior until it gets to grommet then goes on top of the tank..

**Austin@STM** · 09-28-2010, 08:02 PM

There is a grommet right behind the tank that you can run the power wire through, then run it under the dash, under the carper and all down that side, then through the access panel for the fuel pump would be the other shortest route.

**HLxDrummer** · 09-28-2010, 08:57 PM

Alright thanks man I appreciate it! Hopefully I can get this done soon so I can get it a little tuning

**wraith** · 09-28-2010, 10:48 PM

I had my car at Rays and they did something pretty slick. They ran the fp wire from the ignition harness back to the pump so no need for relays or anything. I thought that was pretty smart since the ignition probably draws more then the pump would so it shouldnt ever overheat.

**91STT** · 09-28-2010, 11:51 PM

The way I routed mine is not the easiest but it is very clean looking.
I ran the 10 gauge wire from the engine compartment into the fender via the ABS grommet.
From there I entered the passenger compartment through the door jamb grommet.
Than down the passenger kick panel, along the passenger rocker panel under the carpet, under the seat, behind the quarter panel trim panel to the area by the ECS control unit.
I drilled a hole near where the existing fuel pump wiring is and installed a grommet.
I zip tied the new wire to the existing fuel pump wire all the way to the pump.
Unless you knew what I did, you would probably not be able to tell anything was done.
Lots of disassembly but well worth it to me.

**HLxDrummer** · 09-29-2010, 09:28 AM

Originally Posted by wraith

I had my car at Rays and they did something pretty slick. They ran the fp wire from the ignition harness back to the pump so no need for relays or anything. I thought that was pretty smart since the ignition probably draws more then the pump would so it shouldnt ever overheat.

That is a nice idea but I don't really like messing with the factory wiring if I don't have to. Especially the ignition/starter stuff when I already have a turbo timer/security system on it.

Originally Posted by 91STT

The way I routed mine is not the easiest but it is very clean looking.
I ran the 10 gauge wire from the engine compartment into the fender via the ABS grommet.
From there I entered the passenger compartment through the door jamb grommet.
Than down the passenger kick panel, along the passenger rocker panel under the carpet, under the seat, behind the quarter panel trim panel to the area by the ECS control unit.
I drilled a hole near where the existing fuel pump wiring is and installed a grommet.
I zip tied the new wire to the existing fuel pump wire all the way to the pump.
Unless you knew what I did, you would probably not be able to tell anything was done.
Lots of disassembly but well worth it to me.

Interesting

I'll have to take a look at that. Any reason you didn't run the new wire along with the factory wiring instead of making a new hole? Is it hard to zip tie the new line to the originals without having the car in the air?

Thanks!

**91STT** · 09-29-2010, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by HLxDrummer

That is a nice idea but I don't really like messing with the factory wiring if I don't have to. Especially the ignition/starter stuff when I already have a turbo timer/security system on it.

Interesting

I'll have to take a look at that. Any reason you didn't run the new wire along with the factory wiring instead of making a new hole? Is it hard to zip tie the new line to the originals without having the car in the air?

Thanks!

The existing grommet is too small for fit the factory wire and the new 10 ga.
I did not want to remove the OEM wire so I just drilled a hole next to the existing one.
The factory harness that goes from the quarter panel area to the top of the fuel tank is very accessible with the car on jack stands.
If you look under the right side of the rear bumper, the harness that comes down through the body and over the fuel tank is the harness for the FP.