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Thread: JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

  1. #41
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    ^^^ THATS who it was...

    http://www.maximalperformance.com/st...ue-wrench.html

    ...and this reminds me, depending on your toolbox you may need the head bolt socket.
    if you cant fix it with a hammer...then you have an electrical problem


  2. #42
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    Jim, Hans is all the time telling me to stop buying Harbor Freight tools, but I get by (I can't afford Snap On and a HUGE compressor).

    I have a 2 HP 8 gallon compressor, the "best" of the HB 1/2" impacts, and I can get just about everything but the crank bolt....(I got that with the wedged breaker bar [which I know you can't ] )

    If you do decide to invest in a compressor, get one that will put out at least 7 CFM.....(mine is only about 5.3ish)

    Most things can be done with just hand tools (just did my rotors/pads and never broke out the compressor)....and I'm sure you know this....

    I WILL help in any way I can....just say the word....

    Bob.

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    Having to spend all that time and money sucks man! The the positive, there's lots of guys in here with experience willing to help and give you good advice. Best of luck with the build, Jim.

    If I may suggest a couple things to add your toolbox. A good set of feeler gauges, a quality micrometer, and a dial indicator with an extension and base.

    Cheers man.

  4. #44
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    Bumping up my thread!

    I haven't made much progress at all lately. I won't both listing all my excuses

    At this point I'm still trying to match the symptoms I have with what I have read on other cars on both forums. Bottom line is I have a *LOT* of resistance in the motor when I try to rotate the crank by hand with the plugs out.

    What I now believe happened is I over revved the motor during the high speed run and the oil pump is binding. I believe I have to replace the oil pump. As I said before the car never jumped time.

    So, my question now is should I replace the oil pump with the engine in the car or remove the engine first? I guess if I leave it in the car and can't solve the issue I can always continue and pull the engine.

    Anybody think it could be something else?

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    Did you read somewhere that the pump could bind? This is the first I have ever heard of such a thing and have a really hard time visualizing how it could be possible.

    Think I would just yank the engine and start to tear it down.

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    That bar torque wrench is actually much more accurate than a digital I believe. Thats what I use for big bolts.

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    If you have garage space just pull the whole engine and trans. Should only take about 2-3 hours.

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    Yeah, I'll probably just pull it. Then I can do mounts, VSS, 120K, and maybe upgrade the snails etc....

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    replacing the oil pump is a pretty damn big job.If there is a chance that you'll have to pull the motor anyway then you may as well pull it now.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

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    Quote Originally Posted by CoreyB View Post
    Did you read somewhere that the pump could bind? This is the first I have ever heard of such a thing and have a really hard time visualizing how it could be possible.

    Think I would just yank the engine and start to tear it down.
    It's this thread I was reading. Billet Oil Pump Gears - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center Seems you can mess up your gears by stomping on the rev limiter too much.

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