JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

**Jimvr4** · 06-19-2013, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by green-lantern

Sorry Jim

Are they leaking or you just being anal? I cant remember exactly what needs to be done but I wouldn't do it unless it was leaking. Oh and before you mate the trans back up put some fluid in it to make sure you didn't screw up the output shaft seal.

Originally Posted by sergechronos

Damnit Jim, I'm a college student, not a mature adult!

But, I also wouldn't do it unless it was showing signs of leaking, or you were already in there for something else. I did fill my trans (and the tcase) before reinstalling either to make sure that they weren't leaking.

Haha, expecting maturity from 3Sers??

Great suggestion to fill it and watch for leaks though don't the axle shafts have to be installed ?

**sergechronos** · 06-19-2013, 07:13 PM

To put fluid in it? Not at all. I filled per the manual, attached to engine, and had it on the hoist and tilted at all directions with the load leveler with no leaks.

**CoopKill** · 06-19-2013, 07:32 PM

Hmmm, I thought it would leak without axles coming out, and going in. I should of filled before going in...

**sergechronos** · 06-19-2013, 07:44 PM

Well, I could double check it to make sure that it's still filled to the appropriate level, but no leakage for me.

As an addendum, I don't realllly want to as it feels like the fill plug threading has been somewhat wrecked and will need to be replaced so I'd like to avoid opening it until next time I change fluids. Currently running Synchromesh (cheap and plentiful), but will most likely be switching over to Redline fluids all the way around in about 6k miles when I hopefully have a bit more money to spend on it. This rebuild has ended up with a lot more stuff having to be replaced than I ever anticipated.

**JasonY** · 06-19-2013, 10:51 PM

Make sure you let it sit a good 24hrs or so before adding any fluid so the permatex can fully cure.

Jason

**Jimvr4** · 06-19-2013, 11:51 PM

Originally Posted by JasonY

Make sure you let it sit a good 24hrs or so before adding any fluid so the permatex can fully cure.

Jason

Noted...

**Jimvr4** · 06-24-2013, 09:56 PM

Rear precat blew chunks like a boss

Opened up the transmission to replace the axle seals and output shaft seal. This is after pounding out the old seal and installing the PS axle seal.

Removed the mid case to reseal it

The poppet cover was stuck on after removing the screws. What I should have done was leave a couple of screws in there before separating the cover from the mid case. Springs and balls went flying and fortunately landed close by as the mid case was pointed downward.

Bell housing went to the machine shop to have the DS axle seal pressed in after I spent 30 minutes and could not get it started straight. This is after cleanup and painting

Transmission gear sets look great. VCU still in good shape

An empty shell

Here you can see just how much gear oil is actually specified. The fill plug is on the right and the drain plug is at the bottom of the end case. The FSM says to fill the 6-speed case until the oil reaches the bottom of the fill hole which means the oil level is slightly below the differential axle seals. This is why I decided to re-seal the mid case after having experienced a small leak for years.

Inventory of transmission bolts that will be re-plated

Received a new input spool seal from Ninja Performance after ruining the original one I got from Supercar Engineering. They obviously were from different manufacturers. I thought the Ninja seal was easier to tap in but this time I had the spool in there to help guide it straight

Inventory of remaining 6-speed T-case bolts to be re-plated. Note the one long one which seals up the through hole in the casting. The end to center case bolts are not shown as they were previously plated.