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Thread: JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

  1. #331
    JNS Engineering verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by oohnoo View Post
    Awesome work.
    Are all those new bolts and brackets or did you have them re-done? Me want for when I tackle my Spyder.
    Reading comprehension fail Post #260

    Since I have you in my thread, where are those SMIC you said you would make for me ??

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    JNS Engineering has your Spyders covered (and uncovered too!!)

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    When you guys get bolts re-plated are you requiring the plater to do a post bake for hydrogen embrittlement? If anyone is getting this done I would suggest you require the plater to bake the parts at 375F +/-25 deg for at least 3 hours and the parts need to be in the oven within 1 hr. Given that these parts are being stripped they are probably seeing even more time in the acid etch so that increases the risk of HE even more.

  3. #333
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    Back to the motor now. Headgaskets from the stock kit



    Heads placed and shields bolted on



    Head torqued down per the FSM procedure. I re-used my stock head bolts and washers and torqued them to 40 / 70 / 90 then backed them off and again torqued them to 40 / 70 / 90.



    Getting ready to torque the cam gears on. First one I forgot to mount the seal so I had to pull the gear and go again.



    Cams installed per FSM. New end covers came from Ninja as they are not in the stock gasket set. Cam caps installed and torqued to spec. Front head was no problem but I started to do the rear one backward until I realized the arrows point to the flywheel side instead of the timing side. All cams spin freely with the caps torqued down.



    Water pipe installed





    Lower intake and fuel rails. I love how the springs came out from the plater



    Ready for timing





    Timing belt completed! This was my first ever attemp at timing a 6G72. No cam lockers of any kind were used. I used the binder clips which I wrapped a bunch of duct tape around to protect my gears. Binder clips went flying a few times. The hardest part was setting the tension properly before torquing the tensioner pulley. I kept finding that the pulley would tighten when I added the torque so I had to back off the tension a little more. Finally I got the bolt torqued down with the pin able to freely move. I let it sit for a little while and then rotated the crank around two revolutions and all timing marks stayed good. Pretty happy about that.





    Last edited by Jimvr4; 06-04-2013 at 12:03 AM.

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  5. #334
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    Looking too clean. Are you trying put this engine in the car or living room?

  6. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimvr4 View Post
    Back to the motor now.
    I can't see all the pics at work, but from the ones I've seen at home, you could eat off that baby!!!!

    (I'll check these new pics when I get home tonight...)

    Now I REALLY can't wait for you to make it to Ohio......You can help me do the same to mine!!!!!

    Great work Jim

    Bob.
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    Oldest son - 94 Danube Blue VR4 (sold 10/19)
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  7. #336
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    Sick, Sick, Sick!

    Help them, for they know not that which they do not know!
    CoopKill's Mistress Makeover Thread!
    "Punk, Nutswinging, Small Time, Asshat, Monkey, Jerkoff, Loser that rides on other peoples accomplishments!" . .

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    Beautiful Jim!!

    -John

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    Thanks guys. I just can't wait to get her dropped back in and buttoned up. So much more fun awaits with Chrome.

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    I was proud of how my engine looks currently since I cleaned it up while the car was down...

    ^^^

    Key word there is "Was" lol

    Nice work dude. Love seeing that level of work on a engine. I'd do the same if I had the time and the engine out of the car.

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    Amazing work, it looks SOOOOO good!!!

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