JimVR4 95 Spyder Engine Rebuild

[CoopKill]

They look much better than mine did.

[Jimvr4]

Here are the main bearings. #1 on the right and counting up to #4 on the left. Mains don't show any copper, looks like normal wear to me:



Here are the rod bearings. #1 on the right and counting up to #6 on the left. The rod cap side of each one is good but the rod side bearings are close to showing copper in some cases on the back surfaces. The bearing surfaces show some thrust wear too:



Here is the crank. The journals look pretty good to me:


Finally, here is the block:



So, no smoking gun on the resistance to spinning. It looks like everything needs to be measured out against specs. None of the piston or valve material reached the oil.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

looks excellent to me. should be an affordable rebuild. Your crank will probably only need a micropolish.

I'm not sure I'd worry about the drag at this point. With the pistons still attached and damaged they probably dragged a lot. Toss the crank back in with the main bearings and see if it spins freely (no rods).

[Jimvr4]

Toss the crank back in with the main bearings and see if it spins freely (no rods).

This is EXACTLY what I was thinking to do next.

[DrGonzo]

Well looks like the bottom end is in great shape. Bearings all look great and I agree with Forrest on the piston resistance.

So for the bottom end, looks like all you'll need is polish crank, hone the block, bearings and pistons and you should be good to go.

The heads will need a little more work. Most likely need to get the valve guides replaced due to those damaged valves, Valve seats will need to be worked or replaced due to damage, and of course new set of valves and valve grind to seat them into the heads.

[Jimvr4]

Well looks like the bottom end is in great shape. Bearings all look great and I agree with Forrest on the piston resistance.

So for the bottom end, looks like all you'll need is polish crank, hone the block, bearings and pistons and you should be good to go.

The heads will need a little more work. Most likely need to get the valve guides replaced due to those damaged valves, Valve seats will need to be worked or replaced due to damage, and of course new set of valves and valve grind to seat them into the heads.

I agree pistons #1 and #5 were dragging. I'll have to get a picture but I can see material attempted to push past the rings on those two. Do I need to remove the oil squirters and freeze plugs before hot tanking the block? How do you remove those? How do you press the wrist pins in/out or do you get the machine shop to do it?

I'll have to concentrate on the heads after I get parts for the bottom end on order. I have a Bluepoint GA317 on order so I should be able to strip the heads down soon.

[DrGonzo]

The oil squirters are just pressed in. They press out from the bore through where the bearings would be. I just found a rod that fit in the hole and tapped them out.

Freeze plugs can be a pain and you may want to let the machine shop remove/install them. They have to be banged/pried out and hope one doesn't fall into the water channel. Machine shop will also have to do the wrist pins and they need to be heated & pressed into place.

IMHO - If you are going to go with new Forged pistons it is best to drop it all off at the machine shop and let them tackle it all at once. They will need to bore/hone the block for the new pistons and then balance the rotating assembly to the new piston weight. If you going with stock pistons You shouldn't need to get the rotating assembly balanced as the weight of the new stock piston will be within spec of the rotation mass from the factory spec. Forged pistons will weight substantially different due to material and bore size.

[Primus101]

Buy new squirters if you're going to run them, they're cheap. I discovered one of mine had spilled its guts & was in the pan on dissassembly when I did my build. You may be better off without(oil pressure to mains) if you're going to run forged pistons. Others might chime in on this-

[DrGonzo]

Yes, replace the oil squirters. They run about $12.00 each.

[AdamVR4]

Hopefully it's not too late... When the crank pulley bolt is allowed to bottom out into the threaded hole of the crank, the threads of the bolt that bind in the crank can deform. When those threads deform, the bolt will get stuck during removal... Then you're in for a world of fun if the bolt snaps.

Before you put any more load on that bolt, remove it and prevent it from bottoming in the hole with a washer stack or spacer of some sort.

Glad to see you should be able to get away with a fairly minimal rebuild.