How-To: Install Front Motor Mount w/o Pulling Radiator

[Willens]

Not sure if this has been discussed, but to what I can find it seems that the general consensus is that you need to remove all of this shit to install the front motor mount; you don't. I have yet to tackle mounts on these cars until recently; I am installing my front and rear solid mounts, and doing a bunch of maintenance but I decided to eye this one out, and here is how to go about it:

Jacking the car and stands should go without saying.

Disconnect battery.

Remove intake and MAF

Remove front section of downpipe (mine is OBX, not stock.)

Disconnect 13mm bolt to battery ground, and slide connector.

Disconnect the MAF 'bubble' to the front compressor, simply pull it from the compressor, no need to remove it. This will give you access to the compressor flex hose to the intercooler; disconnect and remove outright.

Remove the 4 10mm bolts that secure the passenger side radiator fan, you do not need to actually pull it.

Use a long extension to loosen and remove the front 14mm bolt to the mount.

Use two spanners to loosen the nut for the bolt that goes through the mounts, use a jack to apply minimal pressure to the transfer case; it only needs to be about .25-.50" to remove the tension on the mount half bolt.

With the IC flex hose out of the way, you can much more easily use a spanner to remove the PS 14mm bolt to the mount.

Slow slide the mount toward the radiator, with the PS fan no longer bolted down you can slide that up, slide the mount forward, toward the DS wheel, and slide it back out. Manipulate it as needed, but it slides right in and out in that same procedure.

Re-install in reverse order, don't forget the starter connection!

Knowing how to do this now, it shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes to complete the front mount (once the car is on jacks,) at least in my experience/opinion. Please disregard if that has already been discussed.

-Will

[Willens]

Now if I could just get a walk-through on the fastest/simplest way to handle that rear mount. What is the trick to tackling it from underneath the car without removing the turbo?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I am sure you can find a way, but I wouldn't try to pull the rear mount with the turbo back there. What a nightmare.

[mb3000]

http://www.3sgto.org/f2/engine-mounts-how-7478.html

[AdamVR4]

Not sure if this has been discussed, but to what I can find it seems that the general consensus is that you need to remove all of this shit to install the front motor mount; you don't. I have yet to tackle mounts on these cars until recently; I am installing my front and rear solid mounts, and doing a bunch of maintenance but I decided to eye this one out, and here is how to go about it:

Jacking the car and stands should go without saying.

Disconnect battery.

Remove intake and MAF

Remove front section of downpipe (mine is OBX, not stock.)

Disconnect 13mm bolt to battery ground, and slide connector.

Disconnect the MAF 'bubble' to the front compressor, simply pull it from the compressor, no need to remove it. This will give you access to the compressor flex hose to the intercooler; disconnect and remove outright.

Remove the 4 10mm bolts that secure the passenger side radiator fan, you do not need to actually pull it.

Use a long extension to loosen and remove the front 14mm bolt to the mount.

Use two spanners to loosen the nut for the bolt that goes through the mounts, use a jack to apply minimal pressure to the transfer case; it only needs to be about .25-.50" to remove the tension on the mount half bolt.

With the IC flex hose out of the way, you can much more easily use a spanner to remove the PS 14mm bolt to the mount.

Slow slide the mount toward the radiator, with the PS fan no longer bolted down you can slide that up, slide the mount forward, toward the DS wheel, and slide it back out. Manipulate it as needed, but it slides right in and out in that same procedure.

Re-install in reverse order, don't forget the starter connection!

Knowing how to do this now, it shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes to complete the front mount (once the car is on jacks,) at least in my experience/opinion. Please disregard if that has already been discussed.

-Will

Am I the only one that thinks this sounds harder than simply removing the upper radiator brackets, disconnecting a couple plugs, and laying the radiator on top of the engine?

[Willens]

I am sure you can find a way, but I wouldn't try to pull the rear mount with the turbo back there. What a nightmare.

Argh, I need to find some help to tackle this last mount, the turbo feed lines (really the front) looks like a pain in the ass, and help getting a few items on/off for the 60k.

(Insert "FOREVER ALONE" picture here.)

[Willens]

Am I the only one that thinks this sounds harder than simply removing the upper radiator brackets, disconnecting a couple plugs, and laying the radiator on top of the engine?

How? I've gone at it both ways, and I can tell you that this... was not only simpler but much faster, not to mention any messes negated altogether.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Argh, I need to find some help to tackle this last mount, the turbo feed lines (really the front) looks like a pain in the ass, and help getting a few items on/off for the 60k.

(Insert "FOREVER ALONE" picture here.)

you aren't going to be super happy...

the radiator has to come out to replace the front feed line. The compressor needs to be moved out of the way and the compressor mount removed.

you are going to have to at least remove that fan

[Valhallaz]

I did the rear mount from entirely under the car without removing anything turbo related, but I did have the transmission out when I did it. I don't remember removing the radiator to do the front mount, but again, I did it from under the car.
I did have a cherrypicker lifting the engine as needed.

[Willens]

Forest: That's what it looks like after eyeing it out with a flash light; definitely can wait, I bought them to do for pre-emptive maintenance, not THAT necessary.

I am trying to weed out if this pissing white smoke that is oil in my exhaust is a bad turbo or what; caked oil in my DP, reeks. Slight play on the front turbo. Any other possibilities? It is a constant upon start-up.