'93 VR4 State of the Union

**Chris@Rvengeperformance** · 06-05-2016, 10:37 PM

I'm currently running Mobil m105 filters because I bought 10 on clearance a couple years ago. Probably go to the kn next because it has a better seal. Running six quarts of redline 10w40 with my bigger pan. Seems ok so far. 24 to 26 psi at 875 rpm and 52 to 58 at 2000.

About 2500 miles on my motor I think.

**AdamVR4** · 06-06-2016, 10:28 AM

Thanks for the recommendation. I ordered the 2007 too, hopefully one of these fit

**j2k4** · 06-06-2016, 10:50 AM

Adam, another good-quality, oversized filter is a Wix 51318.

It's half-again as deep as the stocker, but doesn't protrude beyond limits.

I've used them for the last three changes.

**AdamVR4** · 06-11-2016, 01:55 PM

Lol, the crush washers at the base of my oil cooler adapter fittings have huge OD's that prevent these badass huge filters from fitting. M1-104 'tis...

Got up to 1.4 bar. It's starting to get legitimarely fast. Had to add a fair amount of fuel up top to keep it happy. No longer pulling 40% with the emanage. More like 26%, which i guess was predicted by the math in my last entry.

Took her home as the oil pressure gauge dipped as low as .35 bar (5 psi) at low (700-750 rpm?), scorching hot idle. I suspect my gauge wiring and gauge as the engine sounded good.

**AdamVR4** · 06-12-2016, 10:09 AM

Also, shouldn't the warning light on the dash illuminate at ~6 psi or less?

**stealthee** · 06-12-2016, 10:32 AM

I thought it was 11 psi or less.

**DocWalt** · 06-12-2016, 03:05 PM

Service manual says 11.4psi or higher at idle speed, 167-194F oil temps

**AdamVR4** · 11-02-2016, 08:43 PM

I figured the low oil pressure was worth investigating so I bought a diagnostic mechanical gauge kit and hooked it up in the garage. The mechanical gauge and greddy gauge matched nicely at higher pressures, but at hot idle the mechanical gauge suggested the greddy reads 5+ psi low.

I assumed the problem was the rats nest of aftermarket wires and vampire quick-connects behind the radio. A daunting task to repair, so I put it off.

After I picked up a solder gun and made sense of the knot of wires, I dove in. A few night of back breaking body contorting later, everything was soldered and serviceable. I only connected 1 wire incorrectly out of about 30, but it was a quick fix once I saw the EBC was on all the time.

Unfortunately, fixing my 10 year old rats nest made no noticeable difference in the greddy oil pressure gauge. Oh well, now I know.

Drove like a grandma to the gas station as the low fuel light had been flickering and the fuel gauge needle was way below E (new feature, annoying).

Filled the tank with e85, she started as soon as I touched the key, and on the way home, ripped thru 3+ gears from a low speed punch. Surprised me a little. I don't think I got out of 1st until about 8000 rpm, but she's definitely fun at 22.5 psi. Tune is crude, but she's raceable I think.

The fuel gauge isn't accurate since I switched to the FBM dual pump kit. Was reading way below E despite only taking 18.6 gallons.

I plan to get it down the strip a few times on the 12th at the TX Gathering.

**FeaRpb** · 11-03-2016, 08:43 AM

Glad to hear you will be making it and ripping down the track again.

Originally Posted by AdamVR4

I figured the low oil pressure was worth investigating so I bought a diagnostic mechanical gauge kit and hooked it up in the garage. The mechanical gauge and greddy gauge matched nicely at higher pressures, but at hot idle the mechanical gauge suggested the greddy reads 5+ psi low.

I assumed the problem was the rats nest of aftermarket wires and vampire quick-connects behind the radio. A daunting task to repair, so I put it off.

After I picked up a solder gun and made sense of the knot of wires, I dove in. A few night of back breaking body contorting later, everything was soldered and serviceable. I only connected 1 wire incorrectly out of about 30, but it was a quick fix once I saw the EBC was on all the time.

Unfortunately, fixing my 10 year old rats nest made no noticeable difference in the greddy oil pressure gauge. Oh well, now I know.

Drove like a grandma to the gas station as the low fuel light had been flickering and the fuel gauge needle was way below E (new feature, annoying).

Filled the tank with e85, she started as soon as I touched the key, and on the way home, ripped thru 3+ gears from a low speed punch. Surprised me a little. I don't think I got out of 1st until about 8000 rpm, but she's definitely fun at 22.5 psi. Tune is crude, but she's raceable I think.

The fuel gauge isn't accurate since I switched to the FBM dual pump kit. Was reading way below E despite only taking 18.6 gallons.

I plan to get it down the strip a few times on the 12th at the TX Gathering.

**AdamVR4** · 11-15-2016, 11:45 PM

Took the VR4 to the TX Gathering this past Saturday night at San Antonio Raceway.

Running right at 22 psi on E85 (costs $2.13 per gallon), still on the original engine, stock cams, etc.

I installed the slicks (26x9.5 QTP's) but hadn't tested the 2-step in about a year. So of course it didn't work.

pass1: 11.85@127.41 @22 psi boost, 25 psi tires
~12.9:1 A:F, I didn't remember it being this lean on the street, but I did remove the high flow cat since then. That's piston breaking territory even on E85... added 2% fuel

pass2: 11.44@132.47 @22 psi boost, 25 psi tires
~12.6:1 A:F, in general the A:F looked much flatter and closer to safe. Shifting a little faster and the simple tuning adjustment added 5 mph. At these speeds, that's about 75 horsepower (probably around 700 crank hp now @ 3573 lb raceweight). I added another 1-2% fuel before pass 3.

//// 132.47 mph is incredibly promising at relatively low boost, with such a poor launch and crude tune... There's a lot of potential here. It used to take every bit of these now 10 year old turbos (30+ psi) to run 132+ mph on gasoline (leaded C16 @ $10-$12 per gallon).

pass 3: bog, abort
I tried to launch harder and it still wasn't enough RPM, lol. Oddly, on this aborted pass, the clutch lost vacuum assist (it's a twin disk clutch so it's pretty light anyway) and the engagement point moved from very near the top of the pedal to...the top of the pedal. I'm really not sure what happened. I turned off the engine, moved the clutch pedal adjustment screw about a turn to lower the engagement point slightly, and it seemed fine. It actually made it shift better than it had all night at idle.

pass 4: bog ($@#&!), abort

Called it a night at that point. I'll get the 2 step sorted and go back before the end of the year.