'93 VR4 State of the Union

[R/T93]

I love the way mine stops and handles with abs/aws... ABS hardly kicks in anyways with GOOD warmed up tires. I've never flat spotted either. I dont want to ruin 1200 dollars worth of slicks in 2 seconds, so my ABS stays.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Still boggles my mind how your car is so light..im still in the 34XX region despite this list of weight reduction.

Cruise Delete + computer
ABS Delete + computer + Sensors
SRS Computer + Crash sensors + gutted airbags
ECS Computer
OEM CD Changer
Full Emissions Delete
Washer Bottle Delete/Rear washer delete
Fidanza*Flywheel
Coilovers
Full Exhaust no cats
FG Hood
Lightweight Seats
Wheels-not sure if any savings
Spare/Jack and tools removed/Cardboard for spare
Front Aero assy removed except motor
Tow hook
AWS rack and lines
Privacy Shade

Cant think of anything else other than a cf driveshaft without giving up comforts.

[donniekak]

Try ditching the crash bars and a straight through single shot exhaust. Big chunk right there.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Yea i considered doing the crash bars but i drive it a lot on the street, ive heard conflicting information about how much the bars help. Decided to just play it safe. Gotta keep the quad tip for the looks..

[stealthee]

I'd keep them. I've seen first hand how much the crash bars help.

[AdamVR4]

When the original engine comes out for the stroker, you'll probably be able to convince me to ditch those systems. In the mean time, I want to use the original engine during the switch to e85.

As soon as the FCV arrives, I'm going to toss it in (which will likely require AN fittings and some time to do right), then bleed the clutch & start the engine.

Once started, I'll strongly consider zero'ing the MAF-T's idle (currently at 8, which on version 1.3x is perhaps +40%?!), ground the brown plug & set the BISS (to 740 rpm!) while HOPEFULLY (but probably not) watching ISC steps start at 100, cold, and taper to 10ish hot. I also want to check evoscan to see if the Idle Position Switch is turning on and off. We'll see if trying to get a good, low (normal), idle with 1200cc injectors, E85, no FIAV, and piggybacks drives me to chrome or aem ems.

After making it idle as close to stock as possible, all that's left is changing the coolant, engine oil, t-case and rear diff fluids.

[AdamVR4]

I'd keep them. I've seen first hand how much the crash bars help.

I've been meaning to... Find me a 2G (aluminum right?) rear crash bar in good condition and I'll buy it

[LeRoyDL]

I ended up going with crash bars, when you travel down that road pm me.

[donniekak]

Crash bars are part of the 5mph number system put into law by insurance companies to guarantee a car won't be totaled out in a 5 mph "crash". They don't really do anything in a high speed crash.

Here is a pic of one of my old talons I wrecked going about 80mph almost straight into a guardrail. I hit so hard that the left front steering knuckle broke into 3 places, and the right rear quarter panel that didn't hit anything buckled. With nothing more than a seatbelt I walked away with a bump on my head from an undamaged passenger cabin. There were no crash bars.

[DocWalt]

I can post a pic of my brother's golf that survived ~65mph straight into some trees. The engine wasn't punched through the firewall because the front bumper beam was strong enough to bend the frame rails inwards and absorb energy instead of just shoving the engine into his lap.

Every crash is different. I'd never own a car without at least a steel tubular replacement bar.