'93 VR4 State of the Union

[DocWalt]

If the slave piston is bottoming out that would explain the extra throw.

[Toni]

If the slave piston is bottoming out that would explain the extra throw.

I don't think it can. If it bottoms out, that means it's popped completely out.

[DocWalt]

No, bottomed out the other way so it's always putting a bit more tension on the clutch fork.

[Toni]

You would have to shim the housing to the point where the piston is all the way to the bell housing side and it's pressing the fork in. It doesn't really give you more throw though, just means it's riding the clutch constantly. It would be a pain in the ass, if not impossible to even install like this.

Unless you've adjusted the pedal too far and it's blocked, it will self adjust the piston to the fork location.

[AdamVR4]

Part of the reason I even attempted it was because of your thread, Toni. I've tried it recently on both my car and on the local '97 VR4. It appeared to make a difference in both cases, but the before/after tests were each conducted with variables that prevent 100% certainty. At the very least it's a strong placebo and I don't see the harm... I'll see how it feels on the road this weekend. I appreciate your input -- I just haven't taken the time to fully understand the system.

[Toni]

Oh shoot, maybe I need to look back and update my thread. I pulled the tranny a few times and had various combinations of shim/not shim. Overall it never made a difference. Once I fully bench tested the system and realized how it all works, it didn't seem that it would make a difference. It certainly won't hurt. I eventually had the clutch replaced like 3 times and now it's all good. That year sucked lol.

It's a pretty easy test to see if it works. Shim and don't shim it and see how far the fork gets pushed against a reference point. This is assuming a correctly adjusted pedal.

[AdamVR4]

Still not sure if the clutch is dragging or not. I'm just taking it easy on the car when I drive it.

My car has oddly whined for a while now. The whine gets louder with wheel speed and varies with load (loudest in neutral IIRC). I've always assumed it's the mid-section of my t-case since I rebuilt it and tack-welded that giant nut. I've hoped it would loosen up, but it just hasn't and it continuously forces redline out of the breather vent.

So a local guy gave me a pile of parts that I need to put up a for-sale thread for. In the pile of parts was an 18-spline t-case. I assumed it wouldn't cost me much to retrofit the t-case with a 25 spline spool so I could use it to diagnose my shit.

Then I checked ninjaperformance and it looks like I might need this: $75
NP 18 Spline Large Bearing Transfer Case Conversion Ring (NP18splineLargeTCSmallSpoolRing) - Ninja

and I would definitely need this: $335
NP FLEXOR 25 Spline 5 Spd Input Spool (NPFLEXOR25splineIS) - Ninja Performance - Affordable

I could get an OEM 25 spline spool from 3SX for like $265
Transfer Case Internals - Input SPOOLÂ*-Â*Mitsubishi 3000GTÂ*/Â*Dodge Stealth Parts

Is there a cheaper source for the spool? I need to determine which bearing size I have before I can proceed, but at this rate, it would be more cost effective to sell this 18 spline t-case and buy a used 25 spline...

Thoughts?
Thanks.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

usually if it has the sight bolt in the side of the case marked "Getrag" its the big bearing. I don't think you can even convert a small bearing 18 spline to a 25 as all 25s are big bearing.

[AdamVR4]

I'm mid fuel system refresh currently.

I yanked the stock return and evap lines with the intent of doing dual -6 feed & using the stock feed as return.

Then I stared at it a while and decided I hate the traditional dual feed designs that require fuel to come back across the engine outside the rail.

While deciding what to do, I pulled my dual walbro in-tank setup to examine. To my surprise, 18 year old Adam's rushed work held up. The only carnage occurred due to removal: the wire leading to the low fuel light sensor (I think??) that twists around the aluminum rod, was nearly severed. Such a tight fit.

So I removed the float assembly and made the repair, splicing in a segment of similar gauge PTFE insulated wire. Then I turned my attention to the modified stock pump hanger. 10 years ago, I used red thread locker to make sure these in-tank AN fittings never came loose... so that was painful.

Then I took a Dremel to the JB Weld I'd used to make it air tight. Dont judge me - this was accepted practice when our pump options were so limited! As the JB weld broke away I remembered why it was so necessary... just not enough material in the stock hanger bracket after drilling the 2 new holes. No way to make a decent seal that's properly serviceable.

After staring at it a while, I decided to go aftermarket. Considered 3SX but I haven't liked many of their designs. So last night I ordered the Full Blown Motorsports dual hanger, a new bulkhead gasket, and new socks & crap for my walbros. They might be 10 years old but they look new and have like 7k miles on them lol

The FBM hanger will have a -8 feed port and -6 return port. The pumps 'Y' in-tank. I found one guy on 3si saying he'd used this and it fit well. Ha. I'm confident I can make it work, but we'll see when it arrives.

From there, -8 to a fuel lab filter in the stock spot. Then -8 to a -6/-8 adapter at the front rail (-6 welded onto each end of the polished stock rails). It fits beautifully with a 45 degree -8 hose end. Then EK2 loop Then -6 into my aeromotive AFPR and I will either reuse the stock feed line or replace it all together since I should have a lot of extra -6 line.

Jumped on the skillard fuel line channel so I should have that soon too.

DeatscheWerks 1200cc injectors should give me what I want, at least until I transition to an AEM V2. If I have to upgrade fuel pumps later on, I'll go with a giant in-tank.

Hope to put it all together over the next few weeks. Pictures soon

[FeaRpb]

I have been eyeing that FBM fuel hat for a while. What price did you get it at if you don't mind me asking.