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Thread: Help!!! Headed to NG, have intermittent ignition issue

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    Help!!! Headed to NG, have intermittent ignition issue

    Had my car tuned with Mechman set at 15.5V at battery. Drove it about 200 miles, no issues at all. Transplanted eng/trans/etc into my wife's 95 VR4. Same electronics (AEM/HKS DLI/MSD coils/ptu/etc/etc) but new Taylor ignition wires. All well for about 100 miles. Started blowing "Engine" fuse in panel by driver's leg. Eventually had one of the MSD coils break open. The coil looked like it had expanding foam sealer coming out of it. Thinking the culprit was excessive voltage/heat (and possibly some issue from my wife painting the MSD coils black), I put a stock coil pack and stock wires in and adjusted the voltage down to 14.6.
    All is well...........sort of. As long as outside temps are below about 85 degrees, no problems. AC puts out about 30-35 degree colder air than ambient, down to about 54 degrees. But when outside temps get above 90 degrees and the AC is on.....different story. Under these conditions, the car stalls when the clutch is pushed in to stop. The idle is SOMETIMES unstable. And driving on the Interstate at 100 degrees outside temp with AC on, the temp gauge steadies out about one division above normal and the car feels like it has an intermittent plug miss. Dropping to 65 solves the temp issue, but the intermittent "sluggish" feeling remains. Turn the AC off and all is well again. I've swapped out coil packs with no change. Disconnected the HKS with no change. I only have three days before I leave for Indy with this car and I would REALLY like to have this resolved before I leave. Replacing components on the side of the Interstate would not be fun. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Stock: 12.5-14.4
    NGK: 7.7-8.8
    Accel: 0.40-0.44 (These were on the car during tuning)
    Tayor: 0.40-0.42

    I'm wondering how much impact the higher resistance stock plug wires may be having? Even if they were new? Which they definitely are not.

    HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    I would replace the PTU and check the ECU for damage.
    Recertified ASE L1/L3 Master Technician
    13G's on Pump 93 tuned to 421awhp/419awtq @ 17psi tuned by Pampena Motorsports ....375awtq at 2900rpm....
    Billet 19T HL's on E85 tuned to .....?

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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keyan View Post
    I would replace the PTU and check the ECU for damage.
    no ecu

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    AEM and MSD think the thing to do is put a new set of MSD coils in and re-install the low resistance wires. That will happen tomorrow. Then we will see.

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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    come to think of it, since you cranked the voltage down, lower resistance wires may help. hard to say though. i would think the twin-fire would compensate for all of that.

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    Apparently not. At least according to AEM/MSD/Mechman. At least the weather seems to be in my favor, slightly. Georgia/TN highs on Monday are supposed to be only in the high 80's, low 90's. And Indy is supposed to be mid 80's all week.

    My son thinks it's all tuning. He says his car acts exactly the same way and has for over a year. He just hasn't had a coil failure. We will see Monday, I guess. Just can't let several months of excruciatingly painful work and God only knows how much $$ go for naught. We will get there, one way or another. How long would it take two old cripples to walk 700 miles?

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    Now with more poop-smear Not Verified
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaadVR4 View Post
    Apparently not. At least according to AEM/MSD/Mechman. At least the weather seems to be in my favor, slightly. Georgia/TN highs on Monday are supposed to be only in the high 80's, low 90's. And Indy is supposed to be mid 80's all week.

    My son thinks it's all tuning. He says his car acts exactly the same way and has for over a year. He just hasn't had a coil failure. We will see Monday, I guess. Just can't let several months of excruciatingly painful work and God only knows how much $$ go for naught. We will get there, one way or another. How long would it take two old cripples to walk 700 miles?


    wish i could help! my heart goes with you, even if my butt is plastered in front of a radar screen.

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    aka PierCove Not Verified
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    I'm not sure about the electrical issues, but I thought I would chime in for...

    [For the stalling when clutch pushed in for stopping]

    What idle is your car set at? If it's idling too low, then that could be "part" of the problem. Also, if you haven't cleaned or inspected your IAC / ISC (Idle Servo Control), that could also be part of the problem since you described pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop (if at higher RPMs than your "set" idle - does a drastic drop causing car to stall). ISC - Stealth 316 - ISC Servo Motro

    If the idle for your car is lower than 900 RPMs, then I would work on adjusting the idle screw first to raise the idle to see if that will put a band-aid on your issue, again if this is not electrical. Adjusting the idle screw isn't a fix for not inspecting the ISC, just a temporary fix so that your car does not stall in the warmer temperatures. I know this first hand.

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    I appreciate EVERY comment. In my 45+ years of hotrodding, I've learned that there are no invalid thoughts/ideas/opinions. Obviously I'm uncertain what the problem is, so the more ideas/suggestions I get, the better my chances of fixing it in time to go to the NG.
    My idle is set at 1000 RPM. The "stalling" doesn't happen except when outside temps are above 90 and the AC is on. Even then, it doesn't stall all the time. Hopefully new MSD coils/new wires will solve my problems. AEM and MSD seem to think that will do the trick. We'll see. Should have it all done in a few hours. Thanks for your input,
    Milt

    Quote Originally Posted by TurboX2 View Post
    I'm not sure about the electrical issues, but I thought I would chime in for...

    [For the stalling when clutch pushed in for stopping]

    What idle is your car set at? If it's idling too low, then that could be "part" of the problem. Also, if you haven't cleaned or inspected your IAC / ISC (Idle Servo Control), that could also be part of the problem since you described pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop (if at higher RPMs than your "set" idle - does a drastic drop causing car to stall). ISC - Stealth 316 - ISC Servo Motro

    If the idle for your car is lower than 900 RPMs, then I would work on adjusting the idle screw first to raise the idle to see if that will put a band-aid on your issue, again if this is not electrical. Adjusting the idle screw isn't a fix for not inspecting the ISC, just a temporary fix so that your car does not stall in the warmer temperatures. I know this first hand.

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    The stalling could be just the tune. The miss... probably not. That sounds like a "hardware" problem.

    What's your Idle% vs Target table look like, and are you sure it's set properly? Also, what's the value of AC Idle Load Comp option? You know what, just send me your whole map if you can.

    AEM s2 EMS | E316Gs | E85

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