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Thread: coil pack Hotwire DIY.

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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 fastbikes76's Avatar
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    coil pack Hotwire DIY.

    SO I did this write up a while ago on GTOOC and saw it found its way onto 3sdie, so I may as well add it here for you guys who havent seen it. This is an alternate approach to the expensive DLI's and a far more robust one too. So far mine has been hotwired for 2 years now and run 24psi on stock coils, lead and copper plugs with stock gaps.

    The approach to this is the same as with the fuel pump hotwire. Stock wiring to the coil results in a reasonably strong voltage drop between battery voltage and the voltage the coil packs. I was suffering hugely with miss-fires at high boost, Keithmac advised me on how to do this so all props to him.


    firstly you need to test the voltage at your coils too see if you in fact need to do this. Test as per below...


    Here is how you can test things. Check battery voltage at idle directly on the battery. Then take the + lead of your tester and touch it on the inner most post of the front coil pack as you look at the engine from the front of the car while leaving the negative on the battery. Its the gold'ish looking nut closest to the coil pack bracket. If you are not getting the same voltage as the battery then this will help reduce miss-fires at higher boost levels.



    With 14.4V at the battery and only 12.7V at the coils . Not that on its own is not too bad, however when logging battery voltage i found on hard WOT runs my battery voltage would drop down to 13.1V which in turn worked out late 11's at the coils around 6000rpm



    You will need:

    Standard 5 pin relay
    5 Pin relay connector
    30 amp fuse and Fuse Holder
    Butt connectors/Heatshrink/Spade Ring
    Wiring-I think I used 10 or 12 gauge



    Time Involved: Should take you about 50 mins to an hour...

    So here is a coil pack off the car, the wire you need to intercept is the red one. Its located on the connector for the coilpack on the right side of the coilpack on the bottom. The corresponding wire on the harness side changes to black with a white trace, it is easier to cut the black & white on the harness side than the short red bit on the coil pack side. So we will cut the black & white wire...and run Pin 87 from the relay to the COIL side and Pin 86 is the HARNESS side of the coilpack.




    So what I did was remove the three 10mm bolts holding fuse box in and separate the base. I ran positive wire from the relay with the 30amp fuse holder to the big yellow 60A fuse on the left. Undo the bolt and fit ring connector underneath.(The red wire with the spade fitting is going to the relay)


    Ground you can simply stick underneath the fuse box mounting bolt.


    I ran all the wires up through a small hole I drilled in the fuse box base and up through a blank relay space.


    But instead of using the spade connectors I recommend using the 5 pin relay connector..makes the install cleaner and simpler


    Leaving you with this once the lid is back on.


    Wiring in the relay is super easy and goes as follows.

    Pin 30 is the 12V +
    Pin 85 is GROUND
    Pin 87 is to the COIL side of the black & white wire you cut (red wire on coil pack plug)
    Pin 86 is the HARNESS side of the Black & white wire you cut (red wire on coil pack plug)

    Finally, the fuse holder that you got...wire that in between the relay and the +12V source...I used a 30a fuse.

    And that's pretty much it...double check all connections...make sure all your connections are heatshrinked and solid otherwise you will run into problems with no spark...now you should be able to run more boost and not worry about spark blow out...!

    Cheers
    Elton

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  3. #2
    Forum User Feedback Score 0 fastbikes76's Avatar
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    Feel free to make a sticky or move to the correct section mods.


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    Member verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) sergechronos's Avatar
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    Very well written and documented. Probably a good stop gap measure for those guys on the edge of whether or not they'd need a DLI.
    Mods: 2g 3k body conversion, 2g Brake upgrade, Rota P45R rims
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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 fastbikes76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergechronos View Post
    Very well written and documented. Probably a good stop gap measure for those guys on the edge of whether or not they'd need a DLI.
    TBH, I think this totally negates the need for a DLI. Myself and two other friends have run this as long term solutions to spark blowout and never looked back. All three of us run at least 20% In tank Methanol and suffered blowout above 1.2 bar'ish. Since hotwiring the coils ages ago we all run between 24-30psi without a single hick-up.

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    VR-3747 :D Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) futurevr4man's Avatar
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    I will be doing this when I put my engine into the new car. Good writeup!
    rise and rise again until lambs become lions

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    doing this Sat if I get the time. I REALLY appreciate the clean way the wires are run. I ran my fuel pump hotwire feed from inside the box as well, due to one of your posts, and little stuff like that makes the battery look better and be easier to r & r.

    I have an entire spare fusebox or two (which reminds me I need to send one to eengler...), so I think I'm going to rob a factory relay and see if I can do it for free and with 100% oem parts.

    Parting 6 speed
    Pampena 3.5 Stroker, GTX 2867 Gen IIs, AEM Series2, oohnoo SMIC, DN Hardpipes, FIC 1650s, Walbro 525, aermotive fpr, Dejon intake pipes, Tial Q, Koyo Rad, Samco Hoses, Stoptech 332mm fronts, HKS GT4 Coilovers, Spec 4+ LW, JDM 6 Speed, Billet shift forks, Pampena brace

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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 fastbikes76's Avatar
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    Thanks ! I'm really fussy with stuff like this and don't like bling and ricer stuff. So anything I do needs to look clean and sort of OEM .

    There are SO MANY changes below, shaved injector harness mounts and rear IC mount on plenum, wire tuck, TPS rotated 180*, custom IC pipes/routing, battery in boot, custom throttle bracket, hidden coil Hotwire and more

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438962099.251027.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1438962263.134980.jpg


    Sent from my dog n bone

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    Forum User Feedback Score 3 (100%) Unlogic's Avatar
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    Thanks Elton, this is just what I was looking for!

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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 fastbikes76's Avatar
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    I thought as much mate, thats why I copied it over

  11. #10
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    Nice clean install there Elton!, I'll be moving mine into the fusebox as well (keeps it dry too!).

    I found near two volt drop at idle, so good knows how low it goes under full load!.

    Really is night and day difference at higher boost, if you see how the coils are wired (through the ignition switch) no wonder people suffer from ignition problems at higher boost.
    GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
    TD04-16g`s, Maf-t. 13g`s 12.4@115mph / 16g`s 12.5@117mph.

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