95 Spyder 6 speed AWD conversion & built 6g74 3.53L -- Start to finish Build Thread!

[Gearheadvr4]

I wanted to keep this secret if possible but that's looking impossible because I will need too much help from the community to figure out the little details that I'm unsure about. Other than engine internals I have done just about everything else on these cars. So the AWD conversion and 6 speed trans swap will be time consuming but nothing I cannot handle without small bit of help. I already have a 92 VR4 complete car to swap every thing over from. I got this Spyder basically stock other than the cracked windshield (that I've replaced already) The top works but has a few issues i'm sorting out. Other than that its drives and rides perfect. I've already done the 99 front end conversion and it turned out great.

This will be a start to finish build thread with the hopes of being done in time for NG. I have an AEM on the way, a 3sx 16g kit already here, plus all the supporting mods ready to go other than the injectors. Still trying to decide what size to go with. I'm thinking 680cc or 720cc? Either way I have an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator so I can effectively get very close to what I need but adjusting the fuel pressure up or down a little bit. I have two walbro 255lph pumps but I wanted to see if I could get away with just one. I don't want to get to crazy with the fuel just yet.

This is the block I have -- 6g74 built 3.53L

- Fully worked 6g74 block that had only 12k original miles on it. Line bored to 2.6775” using ARP main studs. Decked to a very high finish. Bored and honed with a pair of torque plates and ARP head studs. 0.005” piston to wall clearance.
- Ray’s custom Ross 6g74 pistons – 20 over, supplied by Scott Merkel
- Ray’s custom ring pack – already file fit, supplied by Scott Merkel
- Pauter 6g74 rods supplied by Scott Merkel
- Ray’s tool steel wrist pins supplied by Scott Merkel
- Spiro-locks
- New ARP main studs
- Forged 6g74 crank – custom heat treated to be approximately double the strength/fatigue resistance of a oem 6g74 crank. Cryo treated following heat treatment. Crank has been straightened and has 10-under journals on rods and mains. Finished by one of the best crank shops around.
- New King main/rod/thrust bearings matched to the crank. Designed for 0.002” clearances on mains and rods using King bearings. Slightly looser or tighter tolerances can be had using clevite (looser) or oem mitsu (tighter) bearings.
- 6g74 oil pan (not modified)
- 6g74 lower intake manifold
- 6g74 long block misc parts/pieces (timing, oiling, cooling, etc)

$4.5k into in parts and labor for the block alone.

[Gearheadvr4]

So where I'm at right now is trying to decide what parts to get to finish everything off.

1. Probably going with AEM. I have a Maft Pro but I'm not sure how well the stock ECU and Maft Pro would work with the 3.53L

2. Still trying to figure out what head gasket to use. The pistons are not chamfered and I really do not want to pull it apart to do it.

3. What size injectors? What brand?

4. I have slotted and drilled rotors and excellent brakes already. Can I reuse any of that with the AWD conversion? How different are the ones used on the AWD? I know the fronts are bigger.

5. What radiator and fans?

-- Here are some of the other parts I already have to go in --

3sx 16g td05, full 6 speed AWD conversion from trans to rear, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and two walbro fuel pumps, front mount intercooling from PMP. Lots of chrome or polished parts for the engine and a few detail parts for the interior to go along with the complete true black interior from a 98. I have everything from the steering wheel to the seats and carpet. Pioneer touchscreen head unit, Infinity component speakers, sony amp, and infinity sub. Iphone 4 with mount for GPS, music, and maybe even logging.

Lots of other things that I cannot think of right now.

Oh and I almost forgot. I finally after a couple years of searching... I found a replacement Blitz type 03 in 18x9 in the correct offset to complete my set. (A kid had sideswipped me a while back and ruined one of them) These rims where special made in Japan have been discontinued for years and are impossible to find. I found a brand new one in a very unlikely place. So freaking happy !!!

[Emilie@GZP]

Be careful with the rear AWD mounting points. Those pumps and Spyder roof parts are going to be tricky to work around.

[Gearheadvr4]

How different would the rear be underneath? Should be the same since there are of course VR4 spyders too.

[Emilie@GZP]

The pumps and roof components are in the way of where you'd need to cut the body to weld in the AWD mounting points. So, some roof components will most likely need to either be removed, or somehow worked around.

It's the one issue that Hans has been hesitant about tackling on my Spyder, and not very happy with me about It's the biggest issue that has been keeping him from getting my Spyder on the way to being finished... he just REALLLLLLY doesn't want to do that

[IPD]

i'm with em. awd conversion is tricky enough. trying to do it to a spyder is...well.... you'd probably be better off it the frame was 100% stripped before you started.

maf/safc/arc2 can be used well into the 700hp range. if you can hit that on chinabay 16g's and pump gas....something is wrong. AEM is nice, but not necessary, imho.

sounds like you're stuck using a stock 6g74 gasket; as it's the only thing stock bore size (i think, if i'm reading your specs right). i can't say for certain that it's as thick/durable as a 6g72 gasket; so i can't give you any feedback about how well it will hold under boost. remember, 74's were not factory-boosted (unless i missed a rare model somewhere).

stock rad fans; 2" 3sx radiator. period.

you can keep the front brakes you have now. i ran my fwd brakes after the awd conversion for nearly a year. interestingly enough, the fwd brakes have ~ the same pad surface area as the tt brakes; only the shape is different. you can run them, and with upgraded pads/rotors, they'll probably work just fine. that said, they won't handle repeated braking nearly as well--especially compared to 2g tt brakes.

i don't know that injector brand is a big issue--provided you aren't buying el-cheapo crap...and/or they aren't used/beat to hell. 720's will give you a bit more upgrade room. i'm personally going with 680's--but it really doesn't matter much, imho. if you're tuning for bleeding-edge, go with 720's. if you're going to stick to pure-pump (no power adders) like me...680's are probably the max of what you'd need. the price difference between the two is negligible either way.

good luck! i think if i were going fwd atx > awd mtx on a spyder, i'd probably go with a 5-speed. more durable (imho), and it would be the first time in the know history of the 3/s that someone put a 5-speed in a hardtop.

[Emilie@GZP]

good luck! i think if i were going fwd atx > awd mtx on a spyder, i'd probably go with a 5-speed. more durable (imho), and it would be the first time in the know history of the 3/s that someone put a 5-speed in a hardtop.

Sorry, I think a 5spd in a Spyder is just a silly idea. 6spd, with a bellhousing brace, /headaches.

[Emilie@GZP]

I guess this is the Kia? non crossover 24V SOHC block?

You haven't fitted the mounts yet. You'll need to trim a bit off the block to get the rear mount to fit. You'll also need to cut the sump and rebuild it with a TIG.That's to make the transfer case fit. That's better done with just a bare block as you'll end up getting all sorts of shit in it when you do the work.

Steve

Kia? Why would he swap in a SOHC? Did you see the pictures he posted, or skimmed right past the whole first 2 posts?

JDM 6g74 DOHC is a DIRECT BOLT IN, with some VERY minor modifications needing to be made to fit a TT/AWD application.

[Gearheadvr4]

This block is a diamonte style non crossover block. Yes it originally came from a Kia, some of those had 6g74 blocks. I already know it's going to be a challenge and will take some massaging to fit.

Going 6 speed only. Easier on gas, more fun to drive, and still strong after the brace is put in.

Good to know I can keep the brakes but the rotors? They are different? Brand in the injectors I guess is not as important. 720cc probably best.

I think I'm going to try just extending the rear bolts for the rear subframe. A machine shop should be able to make bolts right?

[jba3]

Sorry, I think a 5spd in a Spyder is just a silly idea. 6spd, with a bellhousing brace, /headaches.

Wait a minute....

(runs back to other post)

Yeah, totally sure I just bumped a thread where you put a 5 speed into a spyder SL.

Hmm.

Gearhead, I'm guessing you are converting a spyder SL? If you haven't seen Shooter83's AWD conversion threads, definitely check them out.