intercooler piping on the cheap

[Polygon]

It is exactly like their y pipe.....never had to modify so much shit to make it work....wish i bought DNP but this is now working for me.

Yep, a classic example of you get what you pay for.

[Austin@STM]

I used the cx kit last year to try it out. It wasnt perfect but it all fit without any modification for me, and it was only like 600 bucks.

-Austin@STM

[Polygon]

In all fairness there's almost nothing in your engine bay besides the engine.

[Atrosity]

I used the cx kit last year to try it out. It wasnt perfect but it all fit without any modification for me, and it was only like 600 bucks.

-Austin@STM

I have heard/seen that their fmic kits fit just fine. However the hardpipe kit does not.

[elyria_boy]

there is a shop that will do 3 dollar mandrel bends ten minutes from me. i dont think that will be too bad, but i guess that depends on how many i need and how many times i screw it up. lol. and i thought about the o-ring and the difference in pipe sizing over stock. I figured i would have to do some hack n slash on a extra rear stock pipe, but the more i think about that, the more i think it will look like shit.i think the fabrication part of it is really enjoyable tho, wich is why i thought i would pose the question. hmm, and using exhaust grade steel pipe would be no good due to the rusting, flaking, engine, turbos, bank balance exploding mod. so then you have to spend more just on raw materials, and then try to make it functional and pretty. then buying quality couplers to hold it all together....

[Austin@STM]

What does that mean, how are you going to wire pipes together?

Also steel pipes will rust, ETS used steel piping for a long time, and it rusted on the inside. This caused a lot of issues because they sold it as "stainless" piping, we've had it on a few customer cars here and witnessed the rust first hand. There are threads about it on the Evo and DSM boards. SS or aluminum are the best ways to go.

-Austin@STM

[Polygon]

It's how it's done on proper race cars.

To join 2 metal pipes together you weld tabs on the sides. Those tabs are used to hold the pipes together either with wire, bolts or some other means.
The coupler (rubber pipe and hose clips) is there only for a seal, not to stop them from blowing apart.
Sure SS or aluminium might be better in the long term but mild steel is cheap, easy to weld and doesn't rust with oil on it.

Steve

At that point you mind as well just weld them up completely. I'd rather have that than a bunch of couplers anyways.

[Austin@STM]

Yes i agree the less couplers the better, less possible problems to run into. However something is wrong if couplers are just popping off.

We run almost 50 lbs of boost in our shop Evo, and it has a standard coupler and t-bolts on aluminum piping on all joints that arent welded, never had a pipe fall off yet.

Are you using reinforced multi layer couplers like this? Also do you bead roll your pipes?

[Atrosity]

A bit off topic......but Just bought the Dejon Y pipe for blow-through, I chose the t clamp option and paid the extra cash for it thinking it was the better option so has anyone get t clamps from them that did not fit? I had these suckers tightened all they down to the end and I was able to pull the pipe right off...

[1992redvr-4]

What does that mean, how are you going to wire pipes together?

Also steel pipes will rust, ETS used steel piping for a long time, and it rusted on the inside. This caused a lot of issues because they sold it as "stainless" piping, we've had it on a few customer cars here and witnessed the rust first hand. There are threads about it on the Evo and DSM boards. SS or aluminum are the best ways to go.

-Austin@STM

On your stealth, are you using aluminum or stainless for your ic piping? I'm thinking about getting some stainless and fabbing up something similar to the DNP hard pipe kit. I figure 16 or 18 gauge ss would be good, but may be a lil heavy.