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Thread: Questions about AWD ATX

  1. #21
    Relax, it's just rocket science!
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPD View Post
    tyla, according to evan (shooter83) the 6-speed and n/a awd driveshafts are nearly identical. he even did comparison pics. we both felt it was at least "theoretically" possible to put the nipple from the n/a driveshaft on a 6-speed shaft, and have it work. it wasn't tried...but that was our hunch.

    JDM Engine Depot

    i sourced my trans from these guys. i see 6g7x w4q33 transmissions going for ~$300 all the time, so it's really a bargain as far as that goes. i've had zero problems with these guys, so if i bought another, i'd buy there again.


    as noted, the price is stupidly low. ah, the beauty of awd atx.

    you'll need a 6-speed rear end.

    the dsm's use 2 different types of output shafts. iirc, 21 and 22 spline (don't quote me). i actually don't even know what type is on my car, lol!

    my plan is to run my transmission STOCK and see how it holds up to the higher power levels. to my knowledge, stripping the output shaft is not a big problem for awd atx's...there just isn't the same kind of jolting force being applied as there is in an mtx in most cases.

    i agree that vr4> atx is a pita...but it shouldn't be nearly as involved as the awd atx coinversion from fwd atx. there's really 3 key wires that have to be spliced into the tt harness/ecu from the TCU. evan had to wire my fans to be permanently on the "on" position as well. other than that, no real issues.
    Thanks for the info. Saved for future reference.

    FYI, DSMs have 22- and 23-spline transfer cases.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigTyla View Post
    Thanks for the info. Saved for future reference.

    FYI, DSMs have 22- and 23-spline transfer cases.
    Early automatics did come with a 21 spline.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by donniekak View Post
    Early automatics did come with a 21 spline.
    Just the '90, right?

  4. #24
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    I am posting this here, in hopes that someone who has gone through this already might help me out:

    I installed a brand new end clutch kit yesterday, only to burn it out in less than five miles down the road! I followed the video, step-by-step and it still didn't work right. I keep re-watching the video, but still don't find anything wrong with the way I installed the kit. The only difference was that in my case it was really hard to re-install the retaining clip that holds the steel and clutch plates in place. On the video it seems very easy, while I had to push really hard with a screwdriver and even help myself with hammer taps, in order to get it back into the groove. I heard the guy saying that some end clutches come with three clutch plates and others come with four. I took out four out of mine, so I installed four back into it. However, there was absolutely no clearance left as I was barely able to install the retaining clip back on, as I mentioned above... I wonder if that has caused the new kit to burn up right away. I am also thinking of just using three clutch plates next time, so I can get the clearance into the drum. I am not sure if I am supposed to do that, but I do not want to burn another new kit and I need to do something different this time, if I don't want this to happen again... Any opinions or thoughts? I need this thing fixed asap, because my car is my daily driver! I can still use my old clutch plates for now, so I can drive the car while waiting for the new kit, but when I put them back into the drum and onto the car, I hear some buzzing or whining in all gears, even in park... That is why I am afraid to drive the car like that, because I do not want to burn those up completely as they still worked good enough to keep me on the road... Please help! Thanks!
    '95 Mitsubishi GTO AWD ATX - '99 front end conversion, TT conversion (19Ts), Forced Four shift box with paddle shifters, A/A wing, LCDBC, 3" straight piped exhaust with no cats and gutted pre-cats, Custom rear diffuser, HIDs, Carbon fiber steering wheel, 18" Mustang Saleen replicas.
    '92 Dodge Stealth ES - 3KGT body conversion. Sold!

  5. #25
    I don't bite
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    Whining in gear could be your pump.
    1992 Kilder Green VR4 - First 4G swap in a 3S. 2.0, auto, awd. 9.65 at 143mph. Now LS swapped. 8.52 at 162.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilian51378 View Post
    I am posting this here, in hopes that someone who has gone through this already might help me out:

    I installed a brand new end clutch kit yesterday, only to burn it out in less than five miles down the road! I followed the video, step-by-step and it still didn't work right. I keep re-watching the video, but still don't find anything wrong with the way I installed the kit. The only difference was that in my case it was really hard to re-install the retaining clip that holds the steel and clutch plates in place. On the video it seems very easy, while I had to push really hard with a screwdriver and even help myself with hammer taps, in order to get it back into the groove. I heard the guy saying that some end clutches come with three clutch plates and others come with four. I took out four out of mine, so I installed four back into it. However, there was absolutely no clearance left as I was barely able to install the retaining clip back on, as I mentioned above... I wonder if that has caused the new kit to burn up right away. I am also thinking of just using three clutch plates next time, so I can get the clearance into the drum. I am not sure if I am supposed to do that, but I do not want to burn another new kit and I need to do something different this time, if I don't want this to happen again... Any opinions or thoughts? I need this thing fixed asap, because my car is my daily driver! I can still use my old clutch plates for now, so I can drive the car while waiting for the new kit, but when I put them back into the drum and onto the car, I hear some buzzing or whining in all gears, even in park... That is why I am afraid to drive the car like that, because I do not want to burn those up completely as they still worked good enough to keep me on the road... Please help! Thanks!
    Down load the W4A33 transmission manual. You will find clearances for every part of the trans. With 11 ft-lb applied to the end clutch reaction plate, there must be .024" to .031" clearance between the snap ring and the reaction plate. The clearance is adjusted by changing the snap ring with one of a different thickness. Also look at the exploded view of the end clutch to make certain all the parts are installed in the correct sequence/place. I would not expect changing clutch packs, even the upgraded units to cause the kind of bind you are experiencing.

    As for the whine, I would drain the trans and look at the oil and filter. If the end clutch deposited much debris, the pump and much more could have been damaged. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

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    I will change the filter and fluid and see what happens... Thanks for the input!

  8. #28
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    The noise sounds like a bad pump, and the repeat failure could be a incorrectly installed seal. Did you install the new rubber seals that came with the kit?

  9. #29
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    Well, the noise comes from the end clutch so I am hoping that it is not the pump. Furthermore, I heard it the first time I started the car and shifted to reverse, after installing the new end clutch kit. There were no noises prior to that moment. I replaced all the seals that come with the kit, but after it burned out, shortly after installation, I realized that something was installed wrongly. So, I called John at IPT and explained the situation to him. He said that the only thing he can think of is that I did not install the piston far enough into the drum. Since that was one thing my friend did, I could not be sure about it, so I decided to open up the end clutch again and double-check. Needless to say, John was right. I reinstalled the piston properly, but I noticed that the outer seal was slightly damaged, so I re-used the old one as I did not notice any damage on it. I had to use my old clutch plates, because the new kit was burned to the metal... I reinstalled everything, but said problems are still being observed. I may open the end clutch again tomorrow, just to make sure it all looks right, but I do not have high hopes that anything will come out of that. I need to replace the filter and the fluid, just to be sure that the problem does not come from there. I already have another end clutch kit on the way, so hopefully, that will resolve the issues.

  10. #30
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    Well hurry up and fix it so you can finish making my awesome lights.

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