Car running bad after trans swap

[HLxDrummer]

Put in a new trans, 300M shaft, clutch, new OEM TOB, pressure plate, transfer case, TC brace, and poly mounts. The flywheel looked new so just sanded it a little with a DA and put it back on. Car is idling at 18-20 AFR and when I go to pull out it isn't running right. Feels like the clutch is chattering but not sure if the engine is bucking or a problem with the clutch.

Datalogger says everything is ok. All the sensors I can read with it seem normal. No CEL.

All vacuum lines are on as much as I can tell. Fuel pressure is good.

No obviously vacuum leaks I can see but the little rubber insert for the pre turbo pipe got ripped so there may be a leak there.

Only wires above the trans are things like starter, temp sensors, grounds, and injectors, right? It doesn't sound like it is on 5 cylinders... I would try disabling injectors one by one but could never get that to work on Evoscan.

Grounds seem ok. 13.X volts at idle. Starts great.

Not sure if the chattering is related or not. When I let the clutch out the engine feels like it is shaking around like something is out of balance or something. At idle it doesn't bounce around. The flywheel was fine before and we put it back on the alignment pin so I can't imagine something is actually out of balance.

I was thinking maybe the trans was binding but the car rolls fine (output side of the trans must be working) and idling in neutral with the clutch out is fine (input side must be ok). Plus that wouldn't make it run lean.

It also makes a quiet noise.. kind of sounds like a bearing. But it makes it when the clutch is in and when it is out so I doubt it is trans/TOB related. Sounds like it is coming from the trans area although it may be a bad AC pulley or something.

Any ideas? It doesn't seem like that pre turbo leak could be bad enough to cause it to run this bad.. I didn't have my pressure tester with me so I couldn't check. I am clueless.

Edit: Also, the trans seems to be dripping down on the TC a little. More so when the car moves. OS seal? We were careful putting it in but seems like that seal must be bad.

[napkinthief]

a video would be uber helpful to determine if its trans related.

does it do the same forward and reverse? can you slowly let the clutch out in 1st and get it moving?

if there was a balance issue, you should still feel it revving in neutral, as a heavy vibration....

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

best I can guess with the afr's like that is check your maf wiring and pressure test your intakes. Check the purge hose on the front intake.

[HLxDrummer]

a video would be uber helpful to determine if its trans related.

does it do the same forward and reverse? can you slowly let the clutch out in 1st and get it moving?

if there was a balance issue, you should still feel it revving in neutral, as a heavy vibration....

I'm 98% sure it isn't the trans since it doesn't make a different if the clutch is in or not. It does it in 1st and reverse. I'm going to have my dad (it is at his garage) try to drive it with the clutch all the way out and see how it drives (I only drove it short distances and never had the clutch completely out). Good point about the neutral thing. I guess the flywheel is always spinning so that is probably ok, as well.

best I can guess with the afr's like that is check your maf wiring and pressure test your intakes. Check the purge hose on the front intake.

According to the datalogger the MAF signal changes with throttle input and it is getting an intake temp and baro signal. If I unplug the MAF it sounds different so I was assuming it was ok. That plug doesn't feel real good when you clip it in, though, so maybe a pin/wire is giving out.

Vacuum cap is intact on the purge nipple. I will see if my Dad can pressure test with the garbage bag method since I have the pressure tester an hour and a half away.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

[HLxDrummer]

Also I just remembered when I first start the car (when its warm) the wideband reads normal for a few seconds then goes lean. Not sure if that is the wideband warming up or if the ECU is in open loop at that point. I also can't remember if it runs better then or not (I want to say it does). Just thought I would throw that out there.

[Keyan]

thats the wideband warming up. it you leave the key on for a couple of seconds without starting the car you can watch it warm up on the gauge.

[stealthee]

This may sound stupid but have you checked the clutch pedal adjustment? The "shaking" may be the clutch trying to grab too soon??

[HLxDrummer]

thats the wideband warming up. it you leave the key on for a couple of seconds without starting the car you can watch it warm up on the gauge.

Good idea, thanks. I couldn't remember if it reads lean or rich when it warms up.

This may sound stupid but have you checked the clutch pedal adjustment? The "shaking" may be the clutch trying to grab too soon??

I didn't touch the adjustment at all. It seems to be engaging at a good height from the floor.. how should I go about adjusting it? Is there a certain measurement I need to take or anything?

[Keyan]

it starts at 14.7 and as it warms up it goes lean because the exhaust pipe is full of normal atmospheric air.

[KeithMac]

If you're genuinely at 20:1 afr it will run like ass, lean bucking which is what your juddering will be.

Normally the ECU will start rich on the gauge (afterstart enrichmen) then lean off to stoich, sounds like yours starts lean and gets worse!.

I'd resolve your fueing issue first and go for a tentative drive round the block before you rip the box out again.