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Thread: Possible spun bearing

  1. #21
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    Before having it machined you should ask if they will be providing bearings. I actually recommend buying a reground and using yours as a core. It will come with new bearings. Just make sure you really clean the oil galleys out VERY well. Use carb cleaner, compressed air, and a gun cleaning kit. And check all the clearances, the mains are quik because you can check them all together by putting plastigauge on each main then torqueing the main girdle. The rods you do one by one. Its not bad though because at that point you should be installing new rings so it slows you down. Going slow is a good thing because you can keep a clear head and think about everything you are doing carfully.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by CoreyB View Post
    Before having it machined you should ask if they will be providing bearings. I actually recommend buying a reground and using yours as a core. It will come with new bearings. Just make sure you really clean the oil galleys out VERY well. Use carb cleaner, compressed air, and a gun cleaning kit. And check all the clearances, the mains are quik because you can check them all together by putting plastigauge on each main then torqueing the main girdle. The rods you do one by one. Its not bad though because at that point you should be installing new rings so it slows you down. Going slow is a good thing because you can keep a clear head and think about everything you are doing carfully.
    Reground crank? Where would I get one and how much would it be? Why should I have to use it as a core. Ah I hate going slow haha but I will. How many cans of carb cleaner should I get? And couldn't I just get my crank Reground? I need to save money

  3. #23
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    Being NA, it may be cheaper faster and easier tho buy a engine and replace it. I see them for like $500 quite frequently.

  4. #24
    Yea but i got quoted at 65-75 for my crank to get machined and 72 for a oem bearing kit thats cheaper then 500. but Why should i get a new engine?

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    If you lived in my part of the world, you'd take the crank to the machine shop and get it reground 10/10 which means that both the mains and big ends are reground 10 thou undersize. You then get a set of 10 thou main and bigend bearings and slap it together.oh and thrust washers.

    It's a bit pointless doing just the bottom end, ideally you should pull the heads, pull the pistons, get the block honed & cleaned, fit new rings. You'll only need new stemseals if it's high Ks or been cooked, if you're lucky you can reuse the headgaskets, so long as there's been no previous coolant loss or overheating.
    Pros don't use plastigage, not here anyway, they use a bore gauge.
    Steve
    Thats what i was gonna do. Heads have been rebuilt and just put on thanks

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve68 View Post
    If you lived in my part of the world, you'd take the crank to the machine shop and get it reground 10/10 which means that both the mains and big ends are reground 10 thou undersize. You then get a set of 10 thou main and bigend bearings and slap it together.oh and thrust washers.

    It's a bit pointless doing just the bottom end, ideally you should pull the heads, pull the pistons, get the block honed & cleaned, fit new rings. You'll only need new stemseals if it's high Ks or been cooked, if you're lucky you can reuse the headgaskets, so long as there's been no previous coolant loss or overheating.
    Pros don't use plastigage, not here anyway, they use a bore gauge.
    Steve
    Nothing you just said makes sense. You may WANT to get the machine work done 10/10 but that only works if .010" is enough two clean up any damage to the crank. 10/10 generaly works for a crank with no visable damage, unlike his with clear lines cut into it.
    If you are going to replace rings and such you would be an idiot to not replace the VSS. The are common to leak on these cars. I would not be happy if I replaced the bottom end, hones and ringed to have it start smoking in 10k.
    The headgaskest are junk. You can not reuse them. The only time you would reuse a head gasket is if the engine had never been run and you needed to remove the head for some reason.
    Plastigauge is always a good idea to use. You can use a bore gauge on the rod and bearing but you then need to mic the crank and account for taper on the journal. Or you could just do like you suggested and trust that its good to go and slap it in.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoreyB View Post
    Nothing you just said makes sense. You may WANT to get the machine work done 10/10 but that only works if .010" is enough two clean up any damage to the crank. 10/10 generaly works for a crank with no visable damage, unlike his with clear lines cut into it.
    If you are going to replace rings and such you would be an idiot to not replace the VSS. The are common to leak on these cars. I would not be happy if I replaced the bottom end, hones and ringed to have it start smoking in 10k.
    The headgaskest are junk. You can not reuse them. The only time you would reuse a head gasket is if the engine had never been run and you needed to remove the head for some reason.
    Plastigauge is always a good idea to use. You can use a bore gauge on the rod and bearing but you then need to mic the crank and account for taper on the journal. Or you could just do like you suggested and trust that its good to go and slap it in.
    Agreed, never reuse a headgasket, always replace as much as you can while your doing it because it will be easier now than later. Also everything needs to be cleaned. Your best bet is just give the machine shop your motor. They can clean the entire thing, machine anything thats not flat/round and make sure its right to put back together. Their name is on the work so they are going to want to make sure its right, otherwise they look bad. Also if they do the work they will have less of an issue with a warranyt if something goes wrong.

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  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by CoreyB View Post
    Nothing you just said makes sense. You may WANT to get the machine work done 10/10 but that only works if .010" is enough two clean up any damage to the crank. 10/10 generaly works for a crank with no visable damage, unlike his with clear lines cut into it.
    If you are going to replace rings and such you would be an idiot to not replace the VSS. The are common to leak on these cars. I would not be happy if I replaced the bottom end, hones and ringed to have it start smoking in 10k.
    The headgaskest are junk. You can not reuse them. The only time you would reuse a head gasket is if the engine had never been run and you needed to remove the head for some reason.
    Plastigauge is always a good idea to use. You can use a bore gauge on the rod and bearing but you then need to mic the crank and account for taper on the journal. Or you could just do like you suggested and trust that its good to go and slap it in.
    So do i have to go to .25? I would never reuse a head gasket, The only thing on my motor that hasnt been changed are my pistons and rings. How much would it cost to get my block machined?

  9. #29
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    You should take the crank to a trust worthy shop and ask them how far they would need to grind it and whether they think it is worth it. I have no idea on the cost to have the block machined. I am not even sure its nessesary. Every engine job is different and up to the discression of the builder unless you are just hard set on a complete rebuild. I cant really tell you what to do as its not my engine, I am not the one building it, and pictures are not enough to go on.

  10. #30
    Yea i just want to get my car running, im going to take the crank within the next week

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