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Oil filter options
What options do we have other than what the dealer specifies?
All oil filters for our cars have a pressure release valve that opens around 15psi and allows un-filtered oil to pass. Now, are cars do have an M20 - 1.5 filter fitting and it is the same as many Porsche's / Nissan's. Most of Porsche's pressure relief valves do not open until 32 psi...yes, some models run a dual filter setup where as others do not but still...other very high performance models run a very large filter. Also, a side note, many other high performance vehicles run filters that are on par with the Porsche's until you get into serious exotics...then you run into multi-filtration systems that are replaceable element filters like the Canton's.
The reason I am thinking about this is out of all the 6G engine's I have torn down to salvage cranks from...the ones that are damaged all look the same, every damn one of them. They all look like the bearings have been washed out from debri. Simple stuff really, it is as if the smallest containment got into the engine and caused a domino effect. Some are worse than others but I am not talking about 200k engines here, I am talking about engines with less than 100k on them, now to me, that is a very short life time and bearings should not even show premature wear unless proper maintenance was not performed or debri did get into the engine.
Just some comparison's:
Our filter: 7-9 GPM, Cellulose filter, 3.1" tall, 12-15 PSI pressure relief valve.
Porsche filter: 9-11 GPM, Cellulose filter, 5.8" tall, 32 PSI pressure relief valve.
Nissan GTR filter: 7-9 GPM, Cellulose filter, 3.4" tall, 14-18 PSI pressure relief valve.
Mazda RX7 filter: 7-9 GPM, Cellulose Filter, 3.4" tall, 14-18 PSI pressure relief valve.
The only problem with the Porsche filters are that they are around 20$ a pop at your everyday parts store. I want to know what every else's opinion is on this...I know a few people that run Canton's and love them and others who have hated them but without a real explanation. Now what I want to know is what filter do you run if you do not run a stock filter?
Please, lets not get into this brand is better than that one..etc..etc..I don't give 2 shits what brand is better than what as the higher in performance the car is, the less selection of brands you have to choose from.
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So everyone uses the stock oil filter setup?...
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All i have ever run is an OEM filter, thats what we use on every car we do.
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I have been running a wix filter on mine... not sure of the pressure relief and stuff like that are on it
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The brand does not change the pressure relief as it is specific to the car. Now, if you change the specific part to say one of the ones I specified, then it would change.
I just think it weird that I've taken apart around 50 or so 6G72's and probably around 30 6G74's in salvage yards in wrecked condition. Almost all of them had less than 100k on them and none of them had over 150km. I just thought it to be really weird that with such low mileage, these engines had so much wear and tear on them in comparison to other engines with more miles. The only conclusion I can possibly come up with is that the oil filtration system is not efficient enough to help sustain the longevity of the 6G series engine's. The weakest part that can be easy changed out is the oil filter....sooo I start there...I guess I kinda expected more people to have thought the same thing or run something other than the OEM filter.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Unknownvr4
Interested in answers..
If I keep my car, I am going to use the same system as the 97 911TT, its a dual filter system...
or
I'll just use a Canton system.
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Interesting idea. Do you think the debris actually comes from the filter and doesn't originate from the bearing itself? Definitely worth a shot.
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From the look of it, it seems like a foreign piece of debri or a local piece of debri gets in or past the filter. I can normally find, in most, a ring that has been dug around a main bearing and then it makes it to one of the rod bearings. From there is seems that the small amount of bearing material just recirculates and washes the rest of the bearings out over time.
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Would be interested in seeing what you come up with as a replacement!, could you not crush the top of the filter to adjust the bypass spring load (like people do with BOVs and FPR to adjust the pre-load); haven`t looked into it personally.
I`ve seen too many bad pictures of the Cantons to use one myself would rather stay stock.
From what I`ve seen the bypass valve should only open if the pressure differencial between the 2 sides of the filter is over 1 bar, how often does it open?.