General 6g75/4 3.5-9L Info

Before I start, the gospel for all of this has been from John Monnin, Ray Pampena and a few other crazy pioneers (you know who you are, feel free to stand up on this one :) )

the most complete guide for this is here

just a quick thread to throw some information out there about this combo..

Mitsubishi's largest useful version of the 6g7x engine (so far) is the 6g75, the block itself is a royal pain in the arse to work with and requires far too much customization for anyone sane (aka not bdrank) to bother shoehorning in. HOWEVER the 75 crank is a drop into the 6g74 block, which is far easier to get into the 3sgto's engine bay seeing as most parts line up :D

economically it's not worth going near putting the 6g74 block in your car unless your planning on going to 3.6L or above, below this it'll be easier to just use Ray's stroker/a stroker/bored stock engine.

the pro's of the 6g74 block.

1, Could in theory bore to 95/96mm bore allowing 3.9 Liters without touching the 75 crank
2, It has larger bearings, which I'm told makes the crank stronger
3, it takes the 6g75 crank, which in theory could be offset ground to give what 4.1L of displacement?

to get all this running ignoring the getting of the block into the engine bay (covered very well on John's site) with the 6g75 crank you will need some lower compression 6g75 pistons (to get the 2mm downset) and some 6g74 rods.

Another option for those people going this direction (aka hardcore) is to look at fitting the MIVEC heads that came off the 2006+ Eclipse & in Australia some of the Pajero's, these are known to be considerably harder to flex and flow craploads more air than the stock 72/74 heads italograsso recently made some stupid power with these on a 3.7L engine but I'll let him post up about that.