15's possible on auto SOHC (1/4 mile)?

First off no flaming from you turbo guys or anyone saying it will be slow. I am stubborn and modding the hell out of my SOHC!

Current mods:

Injen Intake
3sx downpipe
test pipe
Maximal Single Shot
3sx crank pulley
Topline Wires
MSD 8.5mm wires
Maximal Solids
Plenum spacer

Future mods:

Crower 264/264 reground cams
Dimante 10:1 pistons .04 bore which should yield 10.4:1 compression
Ed Kelly Stage II heads and valve job
lightweight stamped cam gears
DOHC TB and plenum port
Shift kit
High Stall torque converter
Trans cooler
Over sized radiator

weight reduction (future):

remove a/c, windshield wiper fluid bottles, cam gear covers, rear seats, rear wiper, antenna and motor, tow hooks, sun visors, fog lights, crash bars, speakers, headunit, etc.
Get cross drilled slotted rotors (should save a 1lb. each maybe?), lightweight cf hood, cf fenders, cf hatch, TE37 rims, lightweight battery, 11lb. racing seats.

With all that it should be a decent na. Thoughts?

Well my n/a dohc auto ran a best of 16.1. That was full weight, and all intake and exhaust you have done, but on a stock engine. So without power adders, I wish you luck but I cant say. You do have some other pretty good mods, like high stall, cams , ect. So enough talking and just see what it does and report back!

Yeah thanks. I think some guy with all possible bolt ons and moderate weight reduction in his auto SOHC ran a 16.2 best so I should be shooting for mid or low 15s. BTW those aren't my mods yet thats just what I'm planning on doing.

I have a SOHC and I will tell you that you are wasting your money. If your goal is 15's then you are going to be pissed when you have more money into your car than you could have bought a VR4 for that would absolutely annihilate you. Keep the basic mods you have and keep the car reliable. The ATX is going to be your absolute nemesis as well. There are modded DOHC"s with a high stall and shift kit that couldn't get out of the 16's. My MTX SOHC was faster stock than they were modded.

As for your weight reduction.

Removing the cam covers is the most retarded thing you could do. Not only will it save you maybe 2 lbs, but they are there to protect your car. Sure a SOHC is non interference, but that doesn't mean shit wont break if something gets into your timing belt.

Keep the washer bottles. Again the weight savings is minimal and if you want to drive your car on the street they are needed.

Keep the rear seats if you don't want your car to look tacky. They dont weigh hardly anything anyway.

Some people can live without the rear wiper, I love mine. Doing it for weight reduction is stupid though.

Keep the tow hooks, you're gonna need them if you try to mod your car like that.

Keep the sunvisors if you intend on driving your car during the day., fog lights, whatever.

Crash bars are there to protect you. Getting rid of them is insane, stupid, pointless, assinine... Shall I go on?

The car is not going to be a "race car" so getting rid of the headunit and speakers is stupid.

Cross drilled rotors are pointless and are not worth the risk of killing you. They crack and break. The best rotors, are blanks.

Save some weight with the hood.

Aftermarket fenders probably weight MORE than stock. Our stockers are damn near weightless.

You wont save much weight with the hatch. The real weight is in the glass.

It is not going to be a decent NA. Its going to be a huge waste of money.

BTW, I have ran a best of 15.52 with some of the mods in my sig. I didn't have the Quaife, I didn't have the crank pulley, I didn't have the ground wire kit. If I actually took it back to the track and got traction I am probably looking at 15.2's with less than $2000 in mods. You are going to have 10 times that and have a gutted tin can and will be lucky to match that.

easy, many mtx sohc's have hit the 15's. I managed a 16.2 with my atx and 2 blown head gaskets. I think 13's and lower are possible with FI

I know I can have a VR4 but I don't want a VR4. I don't care if I'm slower then a stock VR4. Its just a project I plan on doing. I never heard of cross drilled rotors doing that? But I agree it will still be driven on the street so I'll just get the lightweight hood, maybe some cheaper lightweight rims, and racing seats, and remove the a/c.

I knew someone ran that in there auto. Any guesses what it would run now?

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Originally Posted by SOHC

I know I can have a VR4 but I don't want a VR4. I don't care if I'm slower then a stock VR4. Its just a project I plan on doing. I never heard of cross drilled rotors doing that? But I agree it will still be driven on the street so I'll just get the lightweight hood, maybe some cheaper lightweight rims, and racing seats, and remove the a/c.

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Then you haven't looked at the internet. Its a common occurence and the cross drilled thing is mostly a ricer thing. It in no way offers improvement in braking.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

Then you haven't looked at the internet. Its a common occurence and the cross drilled thing is mostly a ricer thing. It in no way offers improvement in braking.

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agreed, dont buy cross-drilled, get slotted, they hold up better and give you a little extra cooling and venting over blanks

Oh, if you haven't dont those then I dont know if you are going to have luck. And do not waste money on them. A vr4 can be had for cheap. Keep the basic mods and keep the car daily like stealthee said. Also, if you pursue this the best mod to tranny (other than making sure you have a good cooler and temp gauge) is to make a shift box so you have full line pressure shift. It cut a second off my 1/4 mile, the shifts are violent and instantaneous, which is good. All you need is 2 toggle switches, a positive source, and make shift a plug for the tranny so you can switch back to stock with only pulling off an electrical plug. Shift kits and crap are a waste.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SOHC

Get cross drilled slotted rotors (should save a 1lb. each maybe?)

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Brian covered most of the bases, but buying new rotors (somewhere around $200 probably) to save 4 pounds?

We're trying to help you here. Unless you hit the lottery and don't have anything else to do, you're wasting money by dumping it into a SOHC.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

I have a SOHC and I will tell you that you are wasting your money. If your goal is 15's then you are going to be pissed when you have more money into your car than you could have bought a VR4 for that would absolutely annihilate you. Keep the basic mods you have and keep the car reliable. The ATX is going to be your absolute nemesis as well. There are modded DOHC"s with a high stall and shift kit that couldn't get out of the 16's. My MTX SOHC was faster stock than they were modded.

As for your weight reduction.

Removing the cam covers is the most retarded thing you could do. Not only will it save you maybe 2 lbs, but they are there to protect your car. Sure a SOHC is non interference, but that doesn't mean shit wont break if something gets into your timing belt.

Keep the washer bottles. Again the weight savings is minimal and if you want to drive your car on the street they are needed.

Keep the rear seats if you don't want your car to look tacky. They dont weigh hardly anything anyway.

Some people can live without the rear wiper, I love mine. Doing it for weight reduction is stupid though.

Keep the tow hooks, you're gonna need them if you try to mod your car like that.

Keep the sunvisors if you intend on driving your car during the day., fog lights, whatever.

Crash bars are there to protect you. Getting rid of them is insane, stupid, pointless, assinine... Shall I go on?

The car is not going to be a "race car" so getting rid of the headunit and speakers is stupid.

Cross drilled rotors are pointless and are not worth the risk of killing you. They crack and break. The best rotors, are blanks.

Save some weight with the hood.

Aftermarket fenders probably weight MORE than stock. Our stockers are damn near weightless.

You wont save much weight with the hatch. The real weight is in the glass.

It is not going to be a decent NA. Its going to be a huge waste of money.

BTW, I have ran a best of 15.52 with some of the mods in my sig. I didn't have the Quaife, I didn't have the crank pulley, I didn't have the ground wire kit. If I actually took it back to the track and got traction I am probably looking at 15.2's with less than $2000 in mods. You are going to have 10 times that and have a gutted tin can and will be lucky to match that.

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Why do you think the car will keep braking if I mod it like that???

If you plan to spend that much money on an ATX, why not convert to an MTX instead? Its already known that an SOHC MTX is compariable to a DOHC ATX.

I am also modding my SOHC ATX and one of my future plans was to convert to an MTX. My ATX isn't in the best conditions and cost wise I think its cheaper to swap than to rebuild/upgrade the trans.

No weight reduction will be done to mine, except maybe an aftermarket hood and rims. Anything else is pointless on a SOHC. Just remember this rule, "For every 100 pounds removed, you save a 1/10 of a second on the track." You would have to shed 1000 pounds in order to drop 1 second.

Rims alone will net a good weight lost. Here's another rule for you "Rims weigh 4 times there weight when spinning." Drop lets say 10 pounds per rim, and you have 40 pounds less standing. Those 40 pounds become 160 pounds less than stock when spinning.

Now knowing this, think of what a washer bottle will reduce. Doesn't make much sense to remove it now does it?

Besides your list, I will have everything except the 10:1 pistons. I like the fact that my SOHC is non-interference.

The only reason I will be doing upgrades is because I had a rebuild of the engine planned since I am over 200k miles on it. Might as well upgrade as I replace. I personally just want my SOHC to be a little faster. Plus I already blew some of my money buying some parts, might as well install them now. After this The rest of my funds will be saved for a VR4.

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Originally Posted by Dbeltran24

If you plan to spend that much money on an ATX, why not convert to an MTX instead? Its already known that an SOHC MTX is compariable to a DOHC ATX.

I am also modding my SOHC ATX and one of my future plans was to convert to an MTX. My ATX isn't in the best conditions and cost wise I think its cheaper to swap than to rebuild/upgrade the trans.

No weight reduction will be done to mine, except maybe an aftermarket hood and rims. Anything else is pointless on a SOHC. Just remember this rule, "For every 100 pounds removed, you save a 1/10 of a second on the track." You would have to shed 1000 pounds in order to drop 1 second.

Rims alone will net a good weight lost. Here's another rule for you "Rims weigh 4 times there weight when spinning." Drop lets say 10 pounds per rim, and you have 40 pounds less standing. Those 40 pounds become 160 pounds less than stock when spinning.

Now knowing this, think of what a washer bottle will reduce. Doesn't make much sense to remove it now does it?

Besides your list, I will have everything except the 10:1 pistons. I like the fact that my SOHC is non-interference.

The only reason I will be doing upgrades is because I had a rebuild of the engine planned since I am over 200k miles on it. Might as well upgrade as I replace. I personally just want my SOHC to be a little faster. Plus I already blew some of my money buying some parts, might as well install them now. After this The rest of my funds will be saved for a VR4.

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I understand but if I ever decide to make it track only all the little stuff will start adding up couple pounds times xx number of them removed will start adding up to quite a bit.

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Originally Posted by SOHC

Why do you think the car will keep braking if I mod it like that???

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My car never broke a damn thing when it was stock and I beat the ever living shit out it as a dumbass 22 year old. Since its been modded, even the minor way it is now, it takes little to get shit to break.

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Originally Posted by SOHC

I understand but if I ever decide to make it track only all the little stuff will start adding up couple pounds times xx number of them removed will start adding up to quite a bit.

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Going "track only" in a NA SOHC would be a bit of an embarassment. Its flat out not a good candidate for that. If you want real power, but don't want to sell the car, go through with a DOHC TT swap. You will spend a shitton less money and be worlds faster. Then you might actually have an excuse to make it track only with having the ability to run 12's on stock boost as long as you get traction.

The thing here is this; the mods you have listed in your first post don't amount to anything unfortunately. Our cars are pretty open from the factory as it is. Injen intakes are quite possibly the highest priced pieces of tubing I have ever seen in my life and I don't understand why they are still in business. The plenum spacer = nothing. Crank pulley, ground wires, and MSD plug wires offer negligible gains, if any, as well.

The mods you plan to buy are just a waste. You add all the mods you have put and plan to put in this car and you could have yourself a reliable, unbroken VR4. Stock they run 13's and for less than $3k you're in the 11's easily.

The auto SOHC is the bastard child of the 3000GT platform... it's not flaming. It's simply the truth. Why they decided to include such a motor in the same platform as the TT and VR4 just baffles me.

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Originally Posted by x2xtreme360

The auto SOHC is the bastard child of the 3000GT platform... it's not flaming. It's simply the truth. Why they decided to include such a motor in the same platform as the TT and VR4 just baffles me.

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because the SOHC came first, lol





and chrysler didnt have many high roller customers

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Originally Posted by TheRedStealth

because the SOHC came first, lol





and chrysler didnt have many high roller customers

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The platform was based on the VR4 and the TT as the top dog.

Dodge used the SOHC exclusively until Mitsubishi, for some reason, decided to take the reigns after the Stealth ceased production.

Not saying the SOHC doesn't have it's perks... it's nearly indestructible! It's not for modding. Why? Because the VR4 exists.

No, you misunderstood. The 3.0 SOHC was around since 87. The DOHC didn't start being made until the 3000GT. The SOHC is the birth engine to the 3s.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

No, you misunderstood. The 3.0 SOHC was around since 87. The DOHC didn't start being made until the 3000GT. The SOHC is the birth engine to the 3s.

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I know the SOHC was around way before the platform... but just in your statement on how the DOHC wasn't even made until the 3000GT just proves that the platform was based on that motor:p The SOHC was an easy way to start since the engine already existed.

No, the DOHC wouldn't have existed if it weren't for the SOHC. So, no SOHC, no 3000GT.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

No, the DOHC wouldn't have existed if it weren't for the SOHC. So, no SOHC, no 3000GT.

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I don't really think it's valid to make an assumption like that. Saying that the DOHC simply would never have existed if the SOHC didn't isn't true... it just happened that the SOHC did exist prior to the DOHC. Saying the 3000GT wouldn't have existed without the SOHC engine also doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.

But anyway, back on track. The SOHC is the weak link in the platform. IF the SOHC was the only engine in the platform, maybe the modding would be justified... but when there's another trim level with a DOHC TT motor and an AWD drivetrain, it doesn't make much sense to go all out on the weakest engine and longest transmission.

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Originally Posted by x2xtreme360

Saying that the DOHC simply would never have existed if the SOHC didn't isn't true... it just happened that the SOHC did exist prior to the DOHC.

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You're making an assuption with a stretch there. Mitsubishi had the tooling for the engine BECAUSE of the SOHC.

Another question I've seen people with 187-196 whp DOHCs with stock injectors. Do the SOHCs have the same injectors and if I do all those mods they should be more then enough?

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Originally Posted by SOHC

Another question I've seen people with 187-196 whp DOHCs with stock injectors. Do the SOHCs have the same injectors and if I do all those mods they should be more then enough?

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based on what I have heard the SOHC injectors are slightly smaller than DOHC injectors, but just putting DOHC injectors on will be a waste of money with out some way to get more air in cause your engine is already on the rich side of things.

SOHC injectors are identical in size to DOHC injectors. They are both 210 CC.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

SOHC injectors are identical in size to DOHC injectors. They are both 210 CC.

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Awesome, I take it they should be enough then?

Yeah, they're plenty big enough for anything you're looking at. The only way you'd need to upgrade injectors would be if you went FI or Nitrous...

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Originally Posted by 11secondFWD

Oh, if you haven't dont those then I dont know if you are going to have luck. And do not waste money on them. A vr4 can be had for cheap. Keep the basic mods and keep the car daily like stealthee said. Also, if you pursue this the best mod to tranny (other than making sure you have a good cooler and temp gauge) is to make a shift box so you have full line pressure shift. It cut a second off my 1/4 mile, the shifts are violent and instantaneous, which is good. All you need is 2 toggle switches, a positive source, and make shift a plug for the tranny so you can switch back to stock with only pulling off an electrical plug. Shift kits and crap are a waste.

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Is this the one? Doesn't seem like the installation should be too bad. I just hope it won't lower the life of the trans "significantly" but I'll throw a trans cooler on there. The shift kit seems like a cheap mod why is it garbage? I've read lots of good things about it on the other >> 3s site.

http://www.importperformancetrans.co...ller-1891.html

lol yea i want you to mod this thing although i do agree its better to just to do a mtx and a fwd tt you be blazing IMO and much more satisfied but its a fun project just being able to say i have the fastest n/a on the planet and would be awsome as well as beating stock TT's with it but the list of mods gos on and on and are way more money for the sohc that makes no sense to me but how i see its that manufacturers look at it as not worth making parts because of no peformance value the sohc was never branded as being a "peformance car" besides why make it for that when the TT's stomp it already its all custom work and that cash down the drain. if you have to mod it id say do a single turby or supercharged :)

The shift kit can be okay but I have seem some mix results and some saying it didnt help much.

Yea that boost controller from IPT is what I am talking about and will work good and is convenient. But I made mine for less than 5 dollars vs 175, and the only difference is that I have to phsically remove a plug to switch from normal to full line pressure and all you have to do is turn a knob with it. Also mine lets me switch gears with toggle switched while that will let tranny shift by itself but just harder.

Shifting at full line pressure is the best, it feels just like a cvt (continous variable tranny) car. The nose never drops and it shifts so fast you dont even know it does shift.

But doing it my way is cheap but have to shift by self and pull plug

IPT's box the car will still shift its self (tcu), is 175 bucks, but also lets you have varying degrees of intensity.

With full line pressure, it shifts so effing quick and hard I cant see anything making it faster.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAYjjAoqYqs

both fast autos at full line pressure

stock tranny with full line pressure exactly like my set up but he isnt shifting himself. He did what that IPT box does but himself and he cant change intensity.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oyj0WNISlM
watch inside view

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Originally Posted by stealthee

You're making an assuption with a stretch there. Mitsubishi had the tooling for the engine BECAUSE of the SOHC.

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the SOHC is only available in the US along with FWD, AFAIK Mitsubishi only sold SOHC versions in the US, everywhere els they were all DOHC from 91> also they were all AWD. and i would bet the HSX was also DOHC and that previewd in late 80's.

Dodge would have said that a poverty version SOHC and FWD would be better as a lower end car to sell more versions in the states.

just my .02

Mitsubishi mounted the engines in FWD style, not Dodge. They knew all along they were going to produce and sell FWD versions.

All I said with my statement is that the SOHC existed before the DOHC. The DOHC was developed because of the SOHC.

yes they did, all dohc came second :) i agree fully mate