Car is running like crap all the sudden, CODE 41!!!!! NOOOO

I tried posting on that other site but I'm not getting too much help with it. I'll post what I originally did on there so you can get some background.

I haven't been driving it much and especially over the past two weeks. I had it in my garage to change out a wheel stud and cough cough (zip tie the carrier bearings) cough. I also tried to investigate why the lines for the windshield wiper fluid weren't hooked up and discover the pump is broken. I think when I took out the ww fluid reservoir that I might have accidentally unplugged a connector or disconnected an air line. I didn't get a chance to look around yet because it's pretty late. I had to jump it to start it and it was idling fine with no CEL. Then I started to drive it after it was warmed up and it was going very slow and smoking a lot. After about a minute the CEL turned on and it continued to idle crappy and run like crap until I got it home. Any ideas if it isn't something simple? I saw maybe the ISC or MAF connector.

MAF connector looked good. It sounds like a diesel engine and is blowing white smoke out the exhaust. It also smells very rich. Aftermarket boost gauge is showing 12 psi and that's what it is set to. I have to go somewhere right now but I'm going to pull codes later. I'm still getting a CEL too. I hooked up the connector for the windshield wiper fluid pump but that would be crazy if that is causing this unless it's shorting something out.

I pulled codes with a multimeter and I got code 31. Replace detonation sensor or check connector/wiring. I guess I'll check it out tomorrow. That would cause the smoke and why it's running crappy right?

Well I don't know if I counted wrong or something but now I'm throwing a code 41. Which looks like it can be a lot of things. I got some trouble shooting to do.

Well I checked the injectors and the ISC, all of them checked good. I didn't get a chance to check anything else yet. I can try to check the resistance pack in a little bit. Any other ideas? I just want my baby to run right for once :*(.

I'll try to check them today. I'll let you know how it goes. I just opened up the ECU about a month ago and it looked perfect and there was no smell but who knows now lol.

I checked out the maf plug and the readings were good. I'm going to pull the ECU out to check it soon.

I opened up the ECU and it looked really clean. It didn't smell fishy and I didn't see anything wrong. Here is a link to see pics of it: 92TT ECU pictures by will3218 - Photobucket . Let me know if you see anything that is messed up. I don't know what to check next. I know it could still be the ECU. Any ideas? You should be able to zoom in and look at them after you click on the picture. I didn't see any leakage but I heard that it could be under the capacitors as well. Should I try to just change them anyways? The brown spots in the pics are from the flash on my phone.

Any expertise from someone on here would be great and thanks in advance.

I really cant see anything in those tiny pics. Being that they appear to be factory caps, and its a 92, I would definitely change out those caps. Or get someone to do it for you.

The pictures are too small for me to see but code 41 is common among those of us with emanage ultimate without the injector adaptor. Code 41 is for an injector fault so i would check the wiring for the injectors to make sure there is no break in the wiring, make sure you didnt unplug the injector resistor pack which should be in the washer jug area, and maybe see if there is someone in you're area whos willing to let you borrow their ecu and see if your car runs right. I wouldnt personally jump start or put a battery charger on the car, i fried one of my ecus that way and now i always take the battery out of my car to charge it.

I'll try to get some bigger pics. I want to try and just slave one in but I don't know anyone around here with a 1g TT. There is a guy on base a couple blocks away but I feel weird just knocking on his door and asking for his ecu lol. I'm trying to get a data logger so I can check more things out.

DO NOT put a good ECU in your car, you could damage it. Try your ECU in a known good running car.

Yea that guy thats a chyrsler technician knows nothing about mitsubishis!

Its just common knowledge. If he has a shorted IAC, something drawing high current in the injector circuit, or any number of possible shorts in his car. He very well could just damage the good ECU if put in his car. It is far safer to test his ECU in a car that is running good and see what happens.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

Its just common knowledge. If he has a shorted IAC, something drawing high current in the injector circuit, or any number of possible shorts in his car. He very well could just damage the good ECU if put in his car. It is far safer to test his ECU in a car that is running good and see what happens.

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very true

I'll see if someone will let me do that.

After pulling code 41, the chrysler technician will then start testing all MFI components and wiring. After all is eliminated, the technician will then swap a known good ECU into said car after testing points at the ECU connectors. Thats just how things go around the shop.

Putting your ecu in a known running car would do the same thing, no sence in arguing that.

If need more help, i have unlimited amounts of info between our dealer connect website and our room full of service manuals.

I was getting code 41 a few months ago and it turned out to be a dead injector.

When the car was warm it would throw the code. It would run fine otherwise. If I checked the injector when warm I'd not no resistance across the pins.

I'll try warming it up first and then checking it out. Can't the injectors under the plenum be ohmed out through that plug by the throttle body? Mine is running crappy no matter what though. As soon as you start it something isn't working quite right and then after it idles for about 2-3 minutes the CEL comes on.

Yay. I found someone in the local area that has a 1g vr4 and a data logger. He's going to come help me out this weekend. Hopefully we can find the problem.

Let us know what you find.

I will. I always make sure to post what ended up being wrong. I hate searching for something and the thread just ends abruptly.

Well I local member came out to help me. We tried my ecu in his car first and it ran just fine. Then we started my car and cycled through the injectors and they were good. Checked everything else on the data logger and all was good. The only thing that wasn't is the o2 sensors. They were reading high at like 2.1 volts and not alternating like they should. The car ran fine though and has no check engine light now. I don't know what fixed it. I'm probably going to replace the o2 sensors though. Glad it was probably something stupid that I unplugged and plugged back in.

Well it was running fine. I drove it to the gym and all was great. Left the gym and I got on it a little bit and now it's running weird again. I drove to my house and there is a part that is really downhill, so I put it in neutral and the engine died. It started back up with a turn of the key. The idle started to bounce from 0 to 1000 when not pressing the gas. Then I turned a corner to my street and the whole car died. The A/C system turned on like it does when I remove and reconnect the negative terminal. Then it started up drove it to my house and cruised to a stop and guess what, died again. I think the ISC/IAC may be to blame or the alternator/battery/battery terminals. Any ideas? I'm going to clean the ISC this weekend to see if it makes a difference.

I would just replace the IAC, it may have a short in the windings that only shows up sometimes and cleaning wont help that. They are fairly cheap at Rockauto.

If cleaning doesn't do anything I'll just order a new one.

Now a new problem. After it did all that stuff, I cleaned the IAC. I went to go test it out the other day and the car didn't start. I tried to jump it but when I turn my key it won't even crank. I hear the mfi relay click and another click but nothing happens. All the lights are bright. No CEL. I've tried it multiple times and I have the clutch pressed in as far as it will go but still nothing. I just had the battery charged up at autozone a couple weeks ago and they said it was good. I think it's either the terminals or the starter died. Any ideas?

thy probably need the click click start fix applied or replace your ignition switch

I had a similar problem a few years ago. I replaced my IAC with a new one, got a new coil pack bar, and sent my ECU to Foreign ECU repair in florida. It was my ECU, but I like the preventative maintenance aspect of new parts.

Mine was worse than yours, though, all of a sudden it started smoking heavily and would barely creep forward. Thought the Y-pipe had come off at first. It was the ECU, oozing capacitors. As mentioned, fixed now.

Sounds like the ECU or a misfire problem. Have you pulled spark plug wires when its running bad to see if the idle changes? When my ECU went bad, it caused weird problems. Randomly wouldn't start, randomly would misfire. But I had a PTU also cause the same problems. Sometimes 2 cylinders would drop out from no spark and then it would come back to life once and a while.

Well I finally ordered an ignition switch to try and fix it. I'm hoping it's the click click start issue and I saw in another thread about how the root of the problem is the ignition switch wires. I'm going to try and swap it out tomorrow or this weekend. Hoping it fires up for me.

Any updates on this, I am going through the exact same thing now. I am about to replace my ignition module, but I seriously doubt that is the problem. I am going to send my ECU off to get repaired in the meantime. Who's the guy on here that rebuilds them? Rymer or something like that.

There's nothing worse than a thread that just dies with no answer, so I will update my experience with this issue. After some debate on what to replace first, I finally replaced the Power Transistor Unit last week, and it has been running great ever since.