Printable View
Just wanted some input. I already have a price from a dealer I've ordered from before, they give me a 15% discount. Or I can order one from where I work from the following companies - ACT, Centerforce, Comp Clutch or Exedy
Should I go with factory replacement or would one of these other manufacturers be a better route?
If you drive your car like a normal commuter car... stick with OEM.
exedy makes an excellent oem style clutch. most of the time the mitsu clutch parts are exedy anyway
I'm thinking about buying a Chilton's Service Manual but I've had issues with them before on other vehicles not showing all the steps for certain procedures. Is there a writeup anywhere on removal/clutch replacement? I've checked 3sgto, have not searched 3si.
Another 3SGTO member (ChargerX3) and I ended up doing this on my RT a few weeks ago. I haven't put together a complete tutorial on it yet, but I remember most of the steps and have a lot of photos of the process.Quote:
Originally Posted by ictponder
When you get to that point, let me know and I'll send you what I have.
Just download the service manual from mitsubishilinks.com
yeah the chilton's manuals are only good for a wheel chock and they aren't that great at that even.
I am going to start this weekend!Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthify
Got a price today. $136.78 for an Exedy OEM replacement. Just not sure if want aftermarket.
Sent from HTC Trophy
Exedy is oemQuote:
Originally Posted by ictponder
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
I ended up ordering from the dealer for $110, gotta wait a week for it to get to the states.
Sent from HTC Trophy
So, I was able to remove the trans today following the writeup on stealth316.com took about 3 hours from backing in to the garage to taking the pics attached. New parts should be here Thursday!
Here was the main reason I had let the car sit for the last couple months.
https://xpo00g.bay.livefilestore.com...061.jpg?psid=1
https://xpo00g.bay.livefilestore.com...062.jpg?psid=1
I'm assuming this groove isn't supposed to be there and was caused by the TOB
https://xpo00g.bay.livefilestore.com...059.jpg?psid=1
Not sure what a clutch is supposed to look like but it's getting replaced anyway.
https://xpo00g.bay.livefilestore.com...060.jpg?psid=1
The flywheel is very smooth but there is some slight blueing and I noticed a couple VERY tiny cracks the size of a hair follicle. Should I leave it, replace it or just have it resurfaced?
https://xpo00g.bay.livefilestore.com...064.jpg?psid=1
I was able to remove it without taking apart the driver side. Also, I did not drop the control arm, I detached the strut tower and pulled the passenger axle out from the back of the hub, which seemed to work just fine.
https://xpo00g.bay.livefilestore.com...065.jpg?psid=1
A couple questions. How much fluid do I need to buy for the refill? I did not leave the slave pin compressed but I did not remove any hoses, do I need to bleed the clutch when it's back together?
the flywheel should be resurfaced and then checked again for cracks. You'll need about 2.5 quarts of transmission fluid.
The slave should be okay, but it wouldn't hurt to bleed it since you can flush out the old fluid.
You should not have to bleed the clutch. It's a good ideas to get the flywheel resurfaced. Be sure you put in a good throw out bearing. Those cheap ones that come in the clutch kits start making noise a lot of the time shortly after being installed. The only problem with not removing the driver side is when you go to reinstall the tranny u have 2 things to try and get lined up at once. I've done it before also but have had problems. All the pressure plates I have removed from these cars have had those rings. Some even worse than those. Watch those bolts that bolt the flywheel on. They are dine thread pitch and very easy to strip. I have had to run a tap in the crank before to clean them up so they go back in nicely.
The TOB in the Exedy kit is the best quality I have ever seen. If the OP got an exedy he will notice the difference.
Now is a GREAT time to change the rear main seal.
Remove/clean and lube the TOB fork. (often overlooked)
The groove on the pressure plate is mostly normal, but seeing that old TOB I'm sure there was some extra wear added.
Clean your flywheel in hot soapy water to remove all the grit and oils from having it reground. (Carb or brake cleaner doesnt quite do the job!)
Use brake cleaner to remove any oils from the pressure plate and clutch disk. If you got the exedy kit they include a small tube of lube for the splines.
-SP
I cleaned everything with brake parts cleaner. Flywheel had a 2 step turn yesterday, however I think I might have been sent the wrong TOB. Part number MD749998 says it's for the z16a chassis.
oh if it hasn't been mentioned it is a pretty good idea to run a tap or better yet a thread restorer through those flywheel bolt holes. Loctite builds up in them over the years and can make them hard to turn in, giving false torque readings.
Is this gap before bolting down normal? I'm assuming it is or else there wouldn't be any pressure once I bolt the plate to the flywheel (I haven't tightened it down yet). I just want to make sure before I put the car back together tonight.
https://dgidjw.bay.livefilestore.com...068.jpg?psid=1
yes that is normal
So, I got everything back together with no problems except one. I went to bleed the clutch fluid and I can't seem to get any resistance on the pedal even after getting clean fluid through the whole thing. It seems to push the fork just fine but when I'm pushing on it, it feels 10 times easier to push in than my other factory clutch. I thought maybe the linkage needs to be adjusted at the pedal but it's going like 3/4 of the way in until there is any resistance at all. Nothing is leaking and everything seems to be running smooth. Any ideas?
Have you adjusted the threaded shaft that goes into the master cylinder from the pedal? A few turns of that threaded shaft makes a lot of difference on pedal play, which should be between .2" - .5" if I recall correctly.
Link --> pedal adjustment
Let me know what you think of this new clutch. I am going to have to replace my SPEC Stage 1 after less than three years.
Got a problem. The clutch will not disengage the flywheel. I can see the release fork pushing almost to it's max distance (I might be able to get it further if I take off the boot or put a plate under the base of the slave) but if I try to shift into gear it just wants to move the car forward or start grinding. Is there something I'm missing short of replacing the fork and ball & shim?
Edit: The clutch adjustment is maxed out. About half way pressed in is when it has the most resistance, however, once it gets closer to the floor the resistance drops off and it feels much softer. I also bled the fluid until it was clean.
Your slave is most likely bad...
Even if the pin is visually pushing the fork all the way over?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost4VR4
You should have someone push the clutch in and watch the rod to see if it tries to go back. Sounds Like it either still has a little air in there or is bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ictponder
I'm going to take a video tomorrow and post it here. I would rather replace the slave over the shift fork as I don't even want to look at the car right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev943kgt
Shot a video of the slave pushing the fork. This is with the clutch linkage under the dash full extended. Will not disengage.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=...type=2&theater
Tried to check the video out but it won't let me
It pushes it quite a ways out. It can be hard to determine if it's the slave or master. Fluid can bypass in the master or slave either one. Sometimes the master will leak on the rod side inside of the car. If you see that then there is a good chance the master is bad. You shouldn't have to have the rod adjusted all the way out like that. Did you turn the flywheel when you did the clutch job? If so do you know how much they took off to clean it up? It can be a pita to bleed these. I use a mighty vac brake bleeder. Works good.Quote:
Originally Posted by ictponder
I've been told that the shift fork or shim/bearing might be bent or worn. Since replacing the clutch, the (possibly bent) fork assembly can't compensate for the added thickness of the new clutch. Is this possible?
Never heard of that. I did have this same problem before and visually you could see the rod pushing the fork but it wasn't pushing it far enough. Pretty sure that time I replaced the master and it fixed it. The Slave and master either one are not that expensive from your local parts house.
Yeah I think I'm going to replace both master and slave from the dealer.
I bought Wagner brand from oreillys. Worked good for meQuote:
Originally Posted by ictponder