How much did you use. I'm buying ATE Super Blue fluid for $12 a liter... I don't want to buy 2 liters if it's not necessary:p
is 1 liter going to be enough?
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How much did you use. I'm buying ATE Super Blue fluid for $12 a liter... I don't want to buy 2 liters if it's not necessary:p
is 1 liter going to be enough?
I used half a liter with my RBF600. Was enough for all four corners. Doesn't seem right though.
Well, to truely flush the system you should be using two bottles total. If you want to get every bit of the fluid out that has absorbed water, it just takes that much.
You should be good with one, My system was empty, i put in new lines and didnt even use a whole bottle.
-Austin@STM
WAY off topic, just thought you might want to know that your Exterior/Interior link appears broke....Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin@STM
"Not Found
The requested URL /3s/3s_exterior.htm was not found on this server."
Just trying to help and LOVE what you've done with your car FOR this platform!!!
Bob. :)
Yes that section is still being worked on, so its not an active link yet.
Gotcha...sorry, just trying to help :)
No problem appreciate the input
Why do you go RR, LF, LR, and RF? Shouldn't you do longest lones to the shortest lines? RR, LR, LF, RF? That's how I was told to do them anyway.
I ALWAYS use a liter just to be on the safe side. I have a small syringe I use to suck the master cyl dry (saves pumping another 200mL+ through) and then fill it with the new stuff. Also good to have some spare to top up, and if your a manual, you can bleed the clutch at the same time. but I always buy more then less.
To do a full flush and make sure you get ALL the old brake fluid out,... still doesn't take a full liter. Maybe 600ml to 750ml at most and that's with Stoptech's ST40 calipers up front which take more fluid than Mitsu's Sumitomo calipers. I can of ATE is good.
You would only potentially need more than 1 can if you screw up and get air in the system and need to rebleed everything over again. The way I do it, I alternate between SuperBlue and Typ200, the different colors make it easy to see the new fluid. I make sure the master cylinder is full and then make sure to top up every 7 pumps (takes about that many to lower the level in the cylinder, but not be in danger of ingesting air in the system).
I use Speedbleeders as I tend to bleed solo. Keep pumping and topping up till I see new fluid come out the bleeder tube (I use a Speedbleeder bag. It has a clear tube that is attached to a clear bag. Makes it real easy to see the fluid coming out and it further reduces the chances of an air bubble going up the tube. Once I see new fluid coming out, I give it another 7 pumps before I move to the next corner.
The order is Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
Max
The main reason for doing it RR, LF, LR, RF is because the 3/S's ABS is built on a dual channel cross circuit, i.e. rr, lf is one channel, lr, rf is the other, so it's usually a good idea to bleed one channel, then the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFFTR
Max
When I flushed mine we used less than one liter on the ATE.
This. It's a split diagonal system. You'll find that most FWD cars and FWD biased cars are. You can simply Google that or look it up in the FSM.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemax_1
1 liter. rofl! :suspect:
why is my post getting pushed down? lol
The manual gives the proper procedure.
As for the fluid, I live 20 minutes away from the warehouse that supplies it, but they are a warehouse... so they only do shipping services. The fluid is $12 and the shipping is $11:eek: Can you believe that!? They wont even let me pick it up and no stores in the entire city can seem to get it. UPS is a ripoff; I really don't want to pay twice the item cost to ship it to me 10 miles away.