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I need a crankshaft pulley removal tool or a method that would work to get the crank pulley off without cranking the engine.
Anyone got one to sell? oohnoo still around? Is he at the 3SNG?
I would be willing to pay to rent the tool from someone too. Please msg me on this thread and we can figure it out.
You don't have an impact gun? You should be able to get it off by putting the car in gear and holding the brakes.
I have tried the impact gun... an air powered one and an electric one and I've soaked it in AeroKroil for about an hour yesterday. Still wouldn't come off. I think its the OEM crank pulley and been on there since the engine was made. ~~ I haven't tried it today though after an overnight soak.Quote:
Originally Posted by DocWalt
Your procedure - I know this is gonna sound stupid to some, but are you meaning for me to put the car in gear and hold the brakes while the engine is "OFF" ??? FYI too, mine is an AUTO.
I have one I made a few years ago. It works good. Where are you located at? I'm heading to the NG tomorrow.
Ah, that trick won't work with an automatic, nevermind. Good luck, keep trying the impact gun. For what it's worth I got it off the first time using the starter, but every other time the impact gun zipped it right off.
if you cannot borrow one just get two 7/16 bolts and put them in the crank pulley and hold the crank with a length of pipe or a pry bar. get the bolts long enough
Why can't you turn the motor over?
I'm near Shreveport, LA. Definitely not on the way to NG. :) I am entertaining the idea of a chain wrench though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev943kgt
What is all this stuff I read about bending valves etc... when taking off the crank pulley or is that when you remove the timing belt? I was worried about turning the crank as I try to get the crank pulley off, worried about throwing off timing or something else.... all my other stuff is still connected (timing belt/cams) .... its just the 2 belts that are coming off the crank pulley. Is there any chance in my situation I could ruin timing or something else I don't know about just by barely turning the crank shaft?
I could, but I don't exactly understand how this would help. Where do I stick the breaker bar and where is it supposed to contact the frame to get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose? It just sounds dangerous. And with both accessory drive belts disconnected (timing belt intact and connected to cams) nothing else could get messed up huh??Quote:
Originally Posted by RealMcCoy
Would I just briefly flick the key to IGNITION ON and then OFF, like half a second trying to crank it?
If the timing belt is still on and in time your not going to bend any valves by turnIng it. I've taken several of them off but I always had the tool I made. Never used the wrench on the subframe method.
You just wedge the breaker bar against the frame or the ground, (Making sure to take into account which direction it's going to try to turn) and bump the starter over. I've been using that method for 20+ years on all kinds of cars. It's easy and fast, and that's what counts when you're getting paid for billed hours....
Once you get the initial turn on it, you can pull it the rest of the way out with your impact or whatever method you normally would.
Replied to your email yesterday and also sent a PM on the otherside. Got one in a box here waiting to be mailed out.
Am I the only one who has NEVER had a bolt not come out with a quality brand electric impact gun? It either comes out, or it snaps in half.
My 18v Snap-on 1/2 inch gun has never failed!.
I have the milwaukee, best purchase I ever made aside from ratcheting wrenches.
I have had to use the bump method a few times when my impacts werent enough to do it.
I always pull the fuse for the igntion just incase since you dont want to start the motor.
I've done the bump method, works without issue. Other times I will place a small bar in the rotor vane to where it wedges against the caliper bracket and break it loose that way. Also use that method for breaking axle nuts loose. Works every time.
That sounds like a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcshooter
Its been a few days. I'm gonna try the bolt break-free soak stuff again on it and let it sit a day or two and try the impact gun again. If that don't work I'll try the 7/16 bolts and now I just bought a chain wrench too, so we'll see if any of these methods work.
oohnoo - Sorry, I didn't see your msgs till now. I will email ya back if I can't get it off with the methods I'm about to try. I really would just like to have your tool though. We'll see. I will let ya know.
vroom4 - I don't have a quality impact gun. :( - This air impact wrench is from a ROCKFORD $50 air compressor kit I bought at walmart a long time ago. lol - I'm starting to think about getting a better one, but this is the first time I've ran into a problem with the air impact gun I have not working.
KeithMac - 18v snap-on 1/2" air gun - That battery powered?
BUMP METHOD - Someone in this thread said the bump method wouldn't work on my AUTOMATIC. All you others talking about MANUALS/STICK?
If it has a starter, turns clockwise from the front, (not a Honda) and has right hand thread crankshaft bolt, the starter bump method will work. Your car fits in that category....
FYI, you may want to consider oohnoo's tool regardless of how you remove the bolt... Have you considered how you're going to hold the balancer when you're trying to torque the bolt for reassembly?
being an automatic doesnt matter since all your doing is using the torque of the starter to turn the crank thus loosing the bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by ProwlerGT
Bump method works on any car. Its the put in gear and hold the brakes that wont really work. My method of jamming the brakes will work though.Quote:
BUMP METHOD - Someone in this thread said the bump method wouldn't work on my AUTOMATIC. All you others talking about MANUALS/STICK?
if its too far apart to use the starter method, its also easy to pull the starter out and wedge the flywheel teeth with a large screwdriver or prybar, then get a big breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt
Well, check out what I did.
http://www.thinkrolland.com/thinkrol...d/IMG_6823.JPG
http://www.thinkrolland.com/thinkrol...d/IMG_6824.JPG
http://www.thinkrolland.com/thinkrol...d/IMG_6825.JPG
I used enough 1/2" drive extensions to get the length of the socket wrench (a large torque wrench) just outside of the fender well and my neighbor came over to help with a long piece of steel that we were able to slide the torque wrench into for extra leverage. The chain wrench held the broken crank pulley in place and so did rear wheel chocks on both sides of the tire and we both pushed as hard as we could till the damn thing broke loose. It was furiously tight!!!
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to finish it all that night because I ran out of time & there's a couple other things I need/want to do under the hood before I drive it, but the worst is over.
I still think i want oohnoo's tool though, because if I ever need to remove the crank pulley intact, I'm not sure the chain wrench will make it around the pulley with it all together.
Got one here waiting to be shipped :)
Well, I'm about to either find out this isn't a big deal or raise some potential hell. :)
I finally got around to working on my car again (been really busy) and having gotten past the biggest hurdle of getting the bolt off I was excited to put the 3SX pulley on until I noticed that they are not exactly the same size (stock vs the 3SX stock size custom aluminum pulley as seen here: 3SX Custom Crank Pulley STOCK Sized - 3000GT / Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts
Using just regular measuring tape, I pulled it tight around all the pulleys involved and here is what I get for CIRCUMFERENCE around the pulley ribbed surface where the belt will mount flush on:
Stock Pulley:
- Outer Pulley Ring where belt sits on: 18.5"
- Inner Pulley Ring where belt sits on: 12.5"
3SX Stock Sized Custom Pulley:
- Outer Pulley Ring where belt sits on: 18.25"
- Inner Pulley Ring where belt sits on: 12.5"
The outer pulley ring of the 3SX pulley (note these aren't precise measurements, but pretty close) is about .25" smaller in CIRCUMFERENCE (not diameter) on the ribbed pulley surface than the Mitsu stock crank pulley belt surface. The inner pulleys seem almost identical in circumference.
So, I realize we're only talking a quarter of an inch here, but I purposely wanted to avoid an underdrive type pulley so it wouldn't affect accessories, etc... and I realize 18.25" isn't much of an underdrive improvement, but it is a smaller circumference.
So ya think they sent me an SOHC pulley?
or
I got the right pulley, and can I use this and it won't cause me any trouble?
Anybody from 3SX wanna chime in? Has anyone else ever noticed that their 92-99 3SX stock sized crank pulley is just a tad smaller than stock?
oohnoo - I will get with you when I can. I won't forget about this seeing as I will probably have my 3k till I die. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by oohnoo
Congrats on getting the bolt off but you might as well throw that torque wrench in the trash now.
Seriously? Its pretty new and I've only used it like maybe 8 other times prior. Really think I ruined it?Quote:
Originally Posted by 92pearltt
Anyone got thoughts on the smaller circumference 3SX stock crank pulley?
.25" of circumference isn't going to cause you any issues. You are talking 5.89" versus 5.81" diamter, a difference of .09" Thats less than 3/32 of an inch.
Torque wrenches should not be used to break bolts loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by ProwlerGT
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Like gump said, a torque should be used for just that torquing that is it. Loosening bolts with them throws them out of wack especially when putting a pipe on there for extra leverage.
Had you just taken the advice of doing the bump method, you could have avoided this.
shit happens
I guess there's no way to test/measure my torque wrench now to see if its out of torque spec now huh?
I use my torque wrench to take off bolts, I set the torque wrench as high as it can go and unbolt stuff, torque specs have been spot on for everything that I have done...
I was able to get the 3SX Crank pulley on and using my $50 set impact wrench to do it.
The question became: How much torque should I be putting on this? Factory manual says 130lbs, but that is for the stock crank pulley which is heavier and made of tougher metal.
SO what should the torque be on the 3SX pulley since it is aluminum?
and
How much torque at 120psi do ya'll think I might've gotten out of that impact wrench when I bolted it back in?
The impact wrench I have is a Rockford (probably not sold anymore) set that I got at wal-mart many years ago (does the job) where the impact gun and kit all came together. lol - I know that means low quality, but it gets the wheels on and off. Still, what do ya'll think I put down on that crank pulley bolt? maybe 60lbs torque at 120psi??? Way to convert it?
I'd just torque it up to 130lbs and not worry about it.
I took it to the shop yesterday and did just that. I had'em torque it to 130lbs and I forgot to give'm the lock lug, so he took off the starter to do it and somehow reached it and was able to hold it down and torque it. I feel better now.
As far as power, engine feel/sound, to me.... it sounds now like it should've always sounded, smooth and runs great. I really love feeling that power increase and you "CAN" feel it too. Once again, my 3000GT is back on the road and I'm more than happy about it. :)