94 twin turbo stealth wont start

I just recently put my engine back together with the heads jrod (from Oklahoma)sold me. Only thing i did different when i put it back together was vac reduction. This was done following the wiki-how section of the forum.

I have fuel and fire for sure. She comes to life for about 5 seconds at about 300 rpm and just falls flat on her face. I can push the pedal in and everything, completely un-responsive.

When it falls flat on its face, it cough's out of the exhaust side.

I cant seem to find my issue... putting the motor back together was one thing but trouble shooting what i have going on is different for me. I have never heard a motor do this before.

Thx for any help

Recheck your mechanical timing first.

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

Recheck your mechanical timing first.

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I was a tooth off on the front cam. The other 3 cams were perfect.

Well the front cam is a exhaust cam, might explaint the coughing out the exhaust. Should still run though. I would suggest a perssure test on the intake, did you make sure the MAF is plugged in ? Also a compression test would be a good idea.

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

Well the front cam is a exhaust cam, might explaint the coughing out the exhaust. Should still run though. I would suggest a perssure test on the intake, did you make sure the MAF is plugged in ? Also a compression test would be a good idea.

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I have no had much time to really do anything but check what i have done. Everything is plugged in but the front o2 sensor.
Oklahoma just had there statewide meet so i had to leave my car for 2 days. Ill read up how to do compression testing and do it.

Why is the front O2 not connected, I believe it needs to be hooked up to run, not sure though maybe it would just run bad.

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

Why is the front O2 not connected, I believe it needs to be hooked up to run, not sure though maybe it would just run bad.

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I dont even have all my exhaust hooked up but i was under the impression turbo cars dont need back preasure. Ill get that sensor hooked back up but i dont think it would keep it from starting.

Plug in the front o2.

my front 02 reads 0.00 volts at all times (its even new something else is wrong). Having a bad front 02 wont make your car not start.....

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Originally Posted by R/T93

my front 02 reads 0.00 volts at all times (its even new something else is wrong). Having a bad front 02 wont make your car not start.....

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Thats what i thought. Thats why its not a main concern. Ill keep looking around and see what i can do.

crank or cam anlge sensor maybe, check the wires to the sensors and the plugs. My car would slightly start/stutter for a couple seconds when my crank angle sensor went bad. I thought I was out of gas or it was a fuel pump issue cuz it would kind of start.

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Originally Posted by R/T93

crank or cam anlge sensor maybe, check the wires to the sensors and the plugs. My car would slightly start/stutter for a couple seconds when my crank angle sensor went bad. I thought I was out of gas or it was a fuel pump issue cuz it would kind of start.

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Hmm... Your not the first person to suggest these sensors.

theres only one way for these sensors to go in right? I made sure both were plugged in and bolted down nice and tight. I will recheck first thing in the morning

So i got my car trailered down to a mechanic about 2 days ago and come to find out i was 2 teeth off on the crank.... bla!!! such a noob mistake but not bad seeing as it was the first time i have ever timed 6g72 lol. Cams were on perfect.

Now we run into a flooding problem anyone have a suggestion on it.

I was thinking it could be from the crank being off 2 teeth and trying to start it? But thats just my guess

If timing is off, you may not have had compression, which would prevent it from running right. Also check all your spark plug wires and make sure they are correct.

What do you mean by a flooding issue?

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

Recheck your mechanical timing first.

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First reply lol. Now that its right and your flooding recheck for spark, if you have spark check compression. Two teeth on the crank may be enough to touch off some valves.

We did a compression check we are showing 150 lbs across the bored. i know were suppose to show 170 to 180 but the car has not ran in awhile...

She will start and idle up to about 2 grand and as she idles back down she coughs out and dies...

Now my mechanic said it was flooded... im going to assume when i was cranking it with it out of time like that. i was getting more gas then i could burn. So i am almost certain i am the one who caused the flooding...

Replace the pugs and you should be set, provided you do actually still have spark. Check it with a new plug or a screwdriver first.

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

Replace the pugs and you should be set, provided you do actually still have spark. Check it with a new plug or a screwdriver first.

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I can do that... ill let you guys know what goes down...

Check again that there are no vaccuum leaks, if its idling hig then there is probably air getting in there somewhere, or your throttle cable or BISS screw are not adjusted properly.

Do the fuel pump relay bypass that's on stealth316.com

Assuming its TT 150psi of compression is perfect.

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Originally Posted by Hans

Do the fuel pump relay bypass that's on stealth316.com

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^^^If it's starting up and dieing off within a few seconds, I'd check out Hans' suggestion. It could be losing power to the pump when it tries to switch to resisted mode.

Ill check it!

Im going back up to the shop tomorrow. Ill let you guys know what i had to do.

Im stumped! And so is my mechanic lol!

We checked mechanical timing it was still on.
We checked the compression again on all 6 cyl... we got 150 lbs on each cyl.
we checked fuel pressure 45 lbs on that
we did the relay bypass for the fuel pump
checked and changed spark plugs
rechecked vac reduction perfect
We also checked the cam shafts to see if they were in the right spots...they were right

Although when we checked the cam shafts i did have a roller rocker off the lifter on piston 3 but i was still reading 150 lbs of compression on piston 3.

spark plugs 3 and 5 are soaked with gas and 1 was a little black. the rear sparkies how ever were pretty fouled up...

Like i said i did change plugs... there new so i have not checked to see what the new plugs in the back look like.

Other than that im stumped

With my limited knowledge i just dont what to check. im up for doing anything to the car to get her running and down the road

Is the reluctor wheel (the chinese star on the backside of the crank pulley) in the correct placement? If its off, you will still get spark, but it will spark at the wrong time.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

Is the reluctor wheel (the chinese star on the backside of the crank pulley) in the correct placement? If its off, you will still get spark, but it will spark at the wrong time.

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you know now that i think about it we did replace that. Mine got messed up pretty good when i jumped time.

My mechanic thinks one yes it could be off or its on backwards

Stealthee you got a diagram or something i can print out and take down to the shop tomorrow?

I do not, its just something that popped into my head. When you remove the crank pulley there should be an indent for the set pin to sit in. This actually happens more often than you might think.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

I do not, its just something that popped into my head. When you remove the crank pulley there should be an indent for the set pin to sit in. This actually happens more often than you might think.

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Well crap! I guess ill start pulling the timing stuff back off... We will see what happens ill let you guys know what happens

There's a notch in the signal wheel that lines up with the mark on the gear:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ccoy/gear2.jpg

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Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

There's a notch in the signal wheel that lines up with the mark on the gear:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...ccoy/gear2.jpg

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Can that little wheel really cause my car to start and just fall right on its face like its doing?

Yes. It basically can change your ignition timing if its incorrect. It passes past the crank sensors magnet telling it the position of the crank.

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Originally Posted by stealthee

Yes. It basically can change your ignition timing if its incorrect. It passes past the crank sensors magnet telling it the position of the crank.

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Makes since! Now is it possible to put this one backwards... my mechanic wants to know?

When it starts does it seem to run on all cylinders ? Does it even start anymore ? Who is your mechanic, is he familiar with the 3s ?

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

When it starts does it seem to run on all cylinders ? Does it even start anymore ? Who is your mechanic, is he familiar with the 3s ?

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Ya it runs smooth and then it just dies. Yes with a little bit of cranking it will start again
I really need to get a video up. it would help so much

And His name is Kevin out of Pawnee Oklahoma. He actually owns a 92 Twin turbo stealth. He just recently got it put back together for his daughter.

I doubt the plate being wrong if it starts smooth. Even though its rare for your year, pull the ECU and look for leaky capacitors. There are three of them that are cylinder shaped. The seal on the bottom gives way and it leaks electrolyt on the board causing shorts. Also I may have suggested this already but try with the MAF unplugged. Sorry If I already had you try that.

Have you confirmed it has fuel pressure at the point it dies?

Have you tried starting it with the airflow sensor disconnected?

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Originally Posted by CoreyB

I doubt the plate being wrong if it starts smooth. Even though its rare for your year, pull the ECU and look for leaky capacitors. There are three of them that are cylinder shaped. The seal on the bottom gives way and it leaks electrolyt on the board causing shorts. Also I may have suggested this already but try with the MAF unplugged. Sorry If I already had you try that.

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Kevin seems to believe its the plate him self...

I did how ever try starting the car with the MAF out and it did the same thing... came alive for a few and died.

Its hard to tell if the car is coming alive smoothly because i still have no exhaust and its pretty loud... i guess before i take the timing back off i could check the ecu

Wish I was there to help. Its hard to troubleshoot over the net. Listen to anything RealMcCoy says, well because hes the real MCcoy.

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Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

Have you confirmed it has fuel pressure at the point it dies?

Have you tried starting it with the airflow sensor disconnected?

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No confirmation on fuel pressure when it dies.

yes i have tried with the airflow sensor disconnected. It really made no dif.

by the sounds of it, he has spark and way toomuch fuel, from our convo on fb.

it really sounds like its flooding.

stock injectors the whole 9 yards.