Removing clutch pedal assembly, brake booster and clutch master cyl - guides, tips?
Really struggling to find a place to start. Could use the help.
Removing clutch pedal assembly, brake booster and clutch master cyl - guides, tips?
Really struggling to find a place to start. Could use the help.
I know I took it all apart on the RHD clip. I tried getting the clutch booster peddle out of the stealth before I had it towed off. Dash was already out, nothing in the engine bay in the way. I still gave up. I need to change the master cylinder in my 91. Last time I did the engine was out. Looks like pulling the break isn't really much of an option. Hopefully there will be some good info posted in here.
Pull the dash, EGR, timing cover, vac lines on the firewall, unbolt the cover on the cruise control box and spin the pulleys and release the throttle cables. Pull the throttle body cable and the cruise control actuator from the firewall and remove the cables. Pull the cruise control box once you disconnect the cables. Then undo the bolts that secure the power steering reservoir. Once you unbolt the power steering res swing it over the motor mount but keep it disconnected. Once all that crap is out of the way and pulled you can pull the brake assis and clutch stuff in about 10 mins. It sounds like a lot to remove on the engine bay side but it really only takes about 30 mins to pull all that stuff with a good set of extensions and a cordless impact. You need 10mm 12mm and 14mm's, a pair of needle nose pliers, channel locks, a 10 in 1screwdriver and it's all out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4
The dash... that sucks! You should pull it so you can pull the clips from the top and you can see the harness and don't clip anything.
I have the dash removed, the engine is out, and the power steering/cruise is removed. The whole top assembly is out and I have no roof. So what else needs removed? I got all the major stuff out of the way, I just don't know how to remove the clutch pedal assy, brake booster and master. Very difficult to see where to start.
Here is what it looks like now.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/q...4/f0389b1d.jpg
Pull the bolts on the gas pedal assembly, and disconnect the throttle cable.
Disconnect the brakelight switch and pull the bolts on the firewall for the vac res and the pedal assembly.
Disconnect the clutch switch, unbolt the master res, unbolt the clutchpedal wall assembly and slide the assembly out
Whoaaa, HOLY SHIT! And I thought I was crazy! WTF are you doing???Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4
Weight reduction! Just kiddin, that's the assembly picture from ASC who built the convertible tops. I've removed so much that it's almost getting to that point.
I'm doing an 6 speed AWD Conversion TD05 3.5L into an automatic SL Spyder plus converting an old 92 VR4 to a FWD automatic. A lot of work since so much has to be swapped.
That's a winter project... don dooo it in the summer! Just quit, cut a hole in the floor, and turn it into a hot tub.
No way, I'm off work finally and I've got to get this done! Put it off for too long.
So the gas and brake have to be off first to remove the clutch pedal assembly?
I just went right to left when I was under the dash. I started with the gas, then the brake, then the clutch. The clutch is a bitch if you still have the harnesses in there. I had my A and B harness's pulled
Got the brake booster off and clutch loose, struggling with under the dash to pull the pedals. Huge PITA.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/q...4/e1cc2490.jpg
Um, wouldn't it be cheaper and a whole lot easier to just by a 92 FWD???Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4
So it looks like you have to pull out the brake booster stuff to get to the clutch stuff?
The Spyder, after is converted to AWD it will be my main vehicle. I needed the engine harness, clutch, and a bunch of other little things for the conversion. I've had this VR4 sitting here for years and I figured I'd just swap the Spyder's SL parts into it to get it running. It will be sold off locally when I'm done.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackrob
Success!!! Biggest pain on the whole project so far.
http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/q...4/bcf956ad.jpg
[QUOTE=Gearheadvr4;156631]No way, I'm off work finally and I've got to get this done! Put it off for too long.
To make life easier for now and for later, I'd recommend a buying a new clutch master cylinder and a braided ss clutch line. About $50 total for both. I'd probably pay $100 to not have to do the clutch cylinder again for a few years, lol.
For installing pedal assembly in the atx car, get some bimetal hole saw blades for cutting the hole. Otherwise you'll end up going this route, lol.
http://i55.tinypic.com/2ymdk6o.jpg
Or get some step drill bits, they're cheaper and cut through the firewall like butter. I think the hole is 1 1/4"
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece...lls-96275.html
Something like this will help greatly with the holes if the dash is still in.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2000P?prdNo=11
I have this exact one and it's amazing. Just bought this and some other stuff at an awesome price :)
http://slickdeals.net/permadeal/6978...tic-bit-holder
Deal is expired now though...
I've got a bunch of pictures if you need. Granted a few things will be different on a tt or spyder, but most of the basic stuff is the same.
Unless you're swapping engine harnesses...Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearheadvr4
Also, the atx has a different ignition with a cable going from it to the shifter.
http://i53.tinypic.com/kdn13b.jpg
Ignition end of this cable
http://i54.tinypic.com/syv5t4.jpg
You may need to swap ignitions. And if you do that, you might as well swap doorlocks to match. Extra work. Or just have matching sets of keys for each car, lol.
I am swapping engine harnesses, pulled the VR4 one already. I couldn't think of an easy way to tap in the TCU for the auto trans.
Wtf - first I'm hearing of a cable. I assume that's a lockout to be sure it's only in park when you start the car? Is this absolutely required or can I bypass it.
Noone ever mentions the cable, so I thought I'd throw it out there. If you remove it, I think you can start an atx in gear, lol. Or if you're using the atx ignition on an mtx, it won't matter, just remove it.
Also, if you were concerned about the neutral safety switch for the mtx, I think that is in the dash harness. But you dont need that either. You will just be able start the mtx in gear, lol. Just have to be cautious. Pretend like it's normal and always press the clutch in to start it. I already find myself being lazy and starting mine without pressing the clutch.
Ill take any pictures you have. Any help is appreciated.
I think I will try without the cable, depends on what's involved to swap it.
without the cable, in the atx, only issue you will have is you can start it even if it's in drive or reverse. no biggie, just be cautious
for the clutch safety switch, same thing. you will be able to start it in gear. again, just be cautious
if you swap engine harness, body harness, the whole dash and ignition, then you won't have to worry about either of these small issues.
if you go this route, don't forget to swap the vin plates on the dash, lol
i'll gather some pics and send them your way. pm me your email