Bulfab 1G DSM Crossmembers - DSM Forums
It would be nice to have something like this save lbs of the front have mote working space, and how much wide is the 3s cross then the 1g dsm
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Bulfab 1G DSM Crossmembers - DSM Forums
It would be nice to have something like this save lbs of the front have mote working space, and how much wide is the 3s cross then the 1g dsm
Interesting
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it would be nice, but people are too busy demanding strut bars and other crap they don't need.
:stupid:Quote:
Originally Posted by i3igpete
That's awesome.
We have them on the drawing board along with some other ideas.
This is our 2G DSM crossmember using a stock size poly rear mount
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...76934055_n.jpg
Sexy!
I am interested.
Who wants to buy me a tubing bender? :p
Finally someone says it. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by i3igpete
install one on my car at NG and i'll pay you $400 cash money.Quote:
Originally Posted by MeTarzan
^^^Haha^^^ Shit or get off the pot Tarzan! Do it!
Obviously I'm interested. Please make them :)
Oh I am definitely doing this next winter! Got a bender, welder, and a heated shop.
...Unless someone wants to pay me to do it this summer but that's time for the car to be off the road :(
Ill look into it..
I've been looking for these ever since I got my car. Had some on my 3rd gen eclipse and that handled like it was on rails, dead simple install too, just bolted right on. If someone can make some for our cars I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
What would you guys be looking for? A one piece option for just the front bar and then a 3 piece for the front and two forward running ones? Like the options in said thread? Because Id be pretty willing to build these two options pending it be worth my time. I guess I could build a mock up and then have a model to build off of so I could have my car only of the road a week or so..
Also with the front one, wouldn't it be nice to have flat stock so that you can bolt up your own motor mounts to the bar? How safe do you think this would be with said support holding the flat stock to the bar. Id probably mock up the forward running bars so that they had this set up for the behind motor bolt ups:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...76934055_n.jpg
And either weld flat stock to the bar again so you could use your old forward running bars or do a set up like the DSM in said thread.
How would you feel if it was MIG welded and treated? Cause I currently dont have access to a TIG.
Im going to buy some chromoly, weld some joints, and then stress test them.
Edit: After doing some research, I will only be doing this if I can find a TIG..
Pulled the stealth in and yanked the cross members, got measurements and will be designing things up asap.
I don't like that "L" braket design. The bar should be forked at each end and a plate inserted in the notch. There's more to weld to and it's much more rigid that way.
intersting
not sure what your talking about there being more to weld to by notching it. But the item in the picture is 1.25" chromoly welded to 1/4" plates.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Fast
Since our design is actually 3 peices we are gonna design them a bit differently than that 2G DSM I posted pics of. Should be able to have something of a prototype to show everyone pretty soon.
Thats what I like to hear
i would like the option of both 1 0r 3, and if in a 1g dsm if they save 17.5lbs we could save what 25lbs?Quote:
Originally Posted by terrets
What is pretty soon? :p Also I may need my passenger side one modified a little because of turbo pipe, Im sure you guys would do it for a little extra, eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by MeTarzan
I really wish I had a TIG welder :(
This would definitely help the fight to make our cars more balanced and less heavy.
Like this... way stronger. There's more weld and you have to stretch the plate and bar to bend it. See how when the bar slides all the way down the plate you have one round weld (like the only one on your bar), then there's more weld on the notch section... http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/y...Jssubframe.pngQuote:
Originally Posted by MeTarzan
You also said tubular subframe stuff, billet mustache bars, and tubular control arms awhile ago and...and...and... You going to talk about it or do it?Quote:
Originally Posted by MeTarzan
J. Fast is right. Notching the tube is considerably better.
Quick and dirty review of weld strengths...
I assume we're talking about shear looking at J. Fast's picture.
0.4*(electrode yield strength) = Force / [sqrt(2)*(weld length)*(weld thickness)]
Force = 0.566*(electrode yield strength)*(weld length)*(weld thickness)
Assuming you weld the tube to a plate as was originally discussed... tension:
0.6*(electrode yield strength) = Force / [(weld length * weld thickness]
Force = 0.6*(electrode yield strength)*(weld length)*(weld thickness)
So the difference in strength is really going to come from the weld length.
Welding the plate to the tube, with no notch...
Diameter = 1.625 ... Weld length = pi*D = 5.1 inch ... Not bad.
If you put a 2 inch notch in the tube and weld all around... 8 inches of weld.
The 2 inch notched design would be 48% stronger.
The only thing I'd say to keep in mind is that you don't want that notch to remain in the tube. You want to fill it entirely with weld to eliminate the stress raiser.
Might be some mistakes in there, but J. Fast is absolutely right IMO.