well, my clutch is acting funny, so im going to pull it out, but since I go back in there my xmas present from my wife will be the fidanza flywheel with replaceable faces. Now, with my hp/trq #'s is it worth it/dependable? clutch pedal adjutment helped a little. the TOB squeaks like hell at idle so i want to replace it to. about 700 miles on the new clutch.
It depends on what you do with your car. If you want your car to rev faster and the rpms to drop quicker between shifts go for it.
My last two flywheels were aluminum, and I think I'm going to look at a chromoly flywheel next time. They run about 14 lbs...
i probably have 150hp less than you, but my fidanza has been holding up fine :)
I was running around 480bhp before my engine let go as part of the rebuild I have had to replace the face plate on my fidanza flywheel as my Spec 4+ ate it.:(
Jeff:coo3l:
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Not a fan of the feel of a lightweight flywheel. I like the interia of a stocker.
I have the UR one, which I don't think is made anymore. I like it, though it forces you to shift more quickly to match revs/gearing. For a pucked clutch, I would recommend it, as you are not supposed to slip the clutch, it's more an "on/off" engagement, and a lighter flywheel helps (a heavier stock flywheel will slip more, the lighter one will just stall if you are not quick enough with the gas.)
If you're going to drag race then stick with the stocker since the lightweight will bog easier. If you're going to road course or just street it then the quicker revs the lightweight gives you is probably worth it.
hmmmm, that's the setup I'm running. How many miles on that? It doesn't look real bad to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigchamp
ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by Maximal
I'm thinking of getting a new stock one next time but not sure yet.
green-lantern
Only around 3000miles but I do have a very heavy right foot.
If You look closely at the pictures you will see that the clutch plate is starting to wear into the countersink fixing bolts.
I would imagine that it would of been fine to re-fit as it was although it would have been silly not to change the face plate with it all apart at the time.
The clutch disc had very little wear and I have re-used it although I have TIG welded the center to the plate after some having rivets failing.
As You are now a member, check out my build thread on GTOOC it goes into a bit more detail than the one on here: http://www.gtooc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=780
Jeff
Yeah I don't blame you for changing it. I really hope my rivets aren't wearing out. I've been worried about that, damn spec! :shakesfist:
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
Yeah, bronze clutch disc + lightweight flywheel doens't go well together from what I've read from Supra guys. If you're going with a bronze clutch, go with a stock flywheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigchamp
:eek: I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigchamp
Too easy to stall with a lightweight flywheel IMO. Not a fan.
i'm glad to hear that someone else welded their clutch disk together..Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigchamp
Running the fidanza with a clutch masters stage 3 clutch...400 miles on the new build..so far so good. Brand new TOB squeeks though just like yours...:(
I was a bit concerned about doing that but I'm not so sure that's anymore dangerous than rivets coming loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by TwIzTeD_3kGt
BTW who did you get to re-riveted yours?
I did concider that but I decided it was worth a go after hearing that others had done the same.Quote:
I would be worried about compromising the integrity of the hub disc with the heat of welding. The clutch manufacturer who centered and re-riveted my 4+ had the same concerns when I mentioned welding. That's a thin plate, hope it never blows apart on you.
Jeff:coo3l:
ok, so sounds like ill use the money elsewhere. def need to replace my output shft seal and new TOB.
Well you seem to like drag racing more than road racing so a stocker is probably your best route.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4
I think this is opinion only. Did anyone ever quantify in the 1/4 which is faster? If so, I don't remember it. The main argument to staying with the stock flywheel is that it carries much more rotational mass, and as such, makes it easier to get the car moving when the clutch is engaged. Having a LW flywheel makes it harder to overcome inertia and you are more likely to bog on launch.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
HOWEVER... I don't have any problems bogging. When you've got a CFDS and lightweight wheels, fiberglass hood, lightweight battery, underdrive pulley, and other weight reduction, it is easy as pie to get the car moving with a LW flywheel. To this day, I don't think anyone has ever done a few back to back runs just with swapping out the flywheels and seen which setup was faster. If someone has, please chime in and post results.
Fidanza + Spec 3...Took about a week to get used to but never had any issue whatsoever getting the car to move. If you can't drive with a LWFW, you probably just suck at manual trans driving...
:p
Well rivets coming loose and shearing will leave the hub in one piece and it will simply jam behind the pressure plate. If the hub disc has been compromised it would probably crack and blow apart into shrapnel inside the bell-housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by green-lantern
Rochester Clutch & Brake Co. is the place that did mine, family owned business that's been around for over 70 years here. They'll be my clutch source from now on.
http://www.rochesterclutch.com/
I love my fidanza, and am with ahkenadan. You'll get used to driving with it, it'd just be like switching to a new car that, you quickly learn.
I got used to the one in my Talon. Doesn't mean I started to like it. The more I drove it, the more I hated it.
I've never had problems driving with a lightweight flywheel. It only took a few minutes to get used to. From there it was basically memory where the clutch engages you just have to give it a little more throttle input as you let out the clutch no big deal.
What I was told (and this might not be true):
They are somewhat prone to failure because of the design in the removable face plates. When the heat causes the gripping material to expand, it isn't given the room to expand that it needs. The guy at the shop who told me this said they've seen plenty of failures on the track - mostly when they're getting abused. He recommended the RPS flywheel with the 4 removable plates.
And no, they don't stock the RPS wheels for the 3000GT so I doubt he was trying to upsell me on something he doesn't even sell.
I only drove one car with a LWFW but I didn't like it at all. Either needed to upshift at a normal speed then rev match before letting on the clutch, or shift faster (more wear on synchros) every time you upshift. Downshifting just took a little getting used to (when double-clutching just rev a touch higher or shift a bit quicker). Pulling out from a stop didn't make a difference to me.
I only go to the track with my car a few times a year so its not like im beating on it alot. I will probably buy some wheels and tires. UNless some can give me any ideas on what I can use the money for? My biggest problem with my car is traction. I need to get D/R or slicks.
Why not make more traction issues with more power? hehe... something billet td05? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sin'sVr4
Love my RPS Street clutch and RPS lightweight flywheel. Have about 50,000 miles on them now, and they are still working great!