and I'll be honest, I don't really feel like looking lol.
I have (2) JL 10W6 DVC subs and a Kicker 10ZX700.5 amplifier. What would be the best way to wire these subs up to get the most performance and reliability out of the amp?
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and I'll be honest, I don't really feel like looking lol.
I have (2) JL 10W6 DVC subs and a Kicker 10ZX700.5 amplifier. What would be the best way to wire these subs up to get the most performance and reliability out of the amp?
Youll be under powering the subs by quite a bit. Theyll sound alright just make sure you never go loud enough to distort or youll blow the subs.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...4-ohm_mono.jpg
Youll be feeding each one 105 watts, something like a third of what theyre supposed to get. If you can tell when things distort, turn the gain for that channel all the way down on the amp, then the volume all the way up on the stereo. Find some earplugs, and slowly increase the gain on the amp until the subs distort. Back it down a notch and you should be alright.
Hope that helps.
That amp is not strong enough to push one of those, let alone two. Those subs are 600 RMS each, the sub output on the amp will only do 210 RMS at a 4ohm load. 4 OHM is what two of those subs will only be wired at, they can be wired together to 1 OHM but the amp will not be stable.
I got the amp pretty much for free and have been looking to a way to see if I could squeeze the 2 Ohm load into both at the same time. Supposedly from the Kicker certification, it puts out 978 watts for this particular amp.
If you got the amp free then sell it and buy one that will work for the subs. That certificate that says 978 is the MAX output tested. Useless info.
These are the specs for the amp you have:
•5-Channel Amplifier with Class D 5th Channel for Subwoofer(s)
•RMS Power Rating:
◦4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
◦2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
◦4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)
Right. I saw all of that from the manual on the amp. I was more looking at if it was possible to get that 420W figure for the moment.
In the meantime, is there a better 5 channel amp out there that would run these subs somewhat better?
The only amp that comes to mind without doing an all day search is the Directed D2205.
Sub output, 14.4V supply:
4 OHM 200rms
2 OHM 400rms
1 OHM 600rms, yes 1 OHM stable. I used this on a pair of Kicker CVR 12" 400rms.
Everything I've seen says that model is discontinued.
yeah, unfortunatelly. I do have one sitting around but I need to bench test it. Havent used it in a few months, cant be 100% sure it is working properly.
What's the length on one of those?
That's incorrect, well in some areas... Firstly they are dual 6ohm subs. So if you basically wire all V/C's back to the amp you will get a 1.5 ohm load. This will be totally fine to run this amp at this load. What you may find is it may have thermal protection that might shut down the amp when or if it heats up with trying to drive it into clipping. I'd say if anything the rated RMS wont change much with loading it at 1.5 (box impedance rise should alter this and increase in 99% of the time the load the amp sees anyhow).Quote:
Originally Posted by x2percentmilk
To be fair these subs will handle 1200 wrms (basically their V/C's thermal handling threshold) and your only feeding 420 wrms and about 400wrms is turned into heat at the V/C and 20wrms is actually used to make music (Pretending/saying/guessing the sub is 5% efficient (this is not to be confused with the SPL efficiency of the sub usually taken at 1w1m).
Now if you were to push the amp into 20% distortion/clipping it should sound horrid and easy to hear the distortion. This will give you about 500 watts with about 80 watts of clipped power. As that 80 watts will be nearly turned into 100% heat at the V/C it still is only 480 watts turned into heat at the V/C and is way within the heat capability of the thermal capabilities of these subs. There's no way these coils should burn. You are more likely to destroy (due to constantly over driving the amp) the amp before the subs or cause the amps to send something nasty like 12 volts DC to your subs when your amp blows up...
W:25-1/4"Quote:
Originally Posted by OBXBoost
H:2-1/2"
L:13"
more info on it http://www.drdetailshop.com/dd2205.htm
lol due to everyone getting ohms incorrect this amp will produce roughly the same power the Kicker will produce at 1.5 ohms. Sorry guys I had to laugh.Quote:
Originally Posted by USDM-GTO
Stick with what you have or just run one sub at 3 ohms and that will give you about 315 wrms and just use a bigger box (a sealed 2.5cf will give you about 3db extra output, which is equal to another woofer anyhow).Quote:
Originally Posted by OBXBoost
double post
Sorry i came across some wrong stats. thought they were dual 4ohm at 300ish rms.
Id say reallyxxloud's solution is good, that or get a mono amp that will handle both and use this one for speakers/sell it.
Unless I'm wrong it's 300 wrms per coil but I may be incorrect there. Anyhow it doesn't matter for this.
The Kicker amp isnt stable below 2ohm. You even said so yourself. The Directed amp I am talking about is 1ohm stable. It will play at 1ohm all day long.Quote:
Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud
I'd like to see where I stated the amp isn't stable below 2 ohms... Any amp will play stable at even .25 ohms as long as it doesn't have short protection and isn't ran into clip...