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I hate asking noobish questions but this one has me baffled:
My passenger door will not open from either the inside or outside. The actuator operates to the unlock state but then within 0.5 seconds it re-locks. I believe the latch mechanism is jammed.
Anyone experience this? How to get the door to open?
Open the door when you have that split second of opportunity, and check out this guide here: http://www.3sgto.org/f2/my-guide-doo...pics-3851.html
hold the key while you open it. My purple one does the same thing.
During that split second the door almost opens but it doesn't catch. I think the mechanism is worn or damaged and not operating properly
Then do what Em said. My car was doing the same when it was really hot out.
He tried what Em said earlier today, it didn't work....
Bob.
Spent some time trying to trip the latch with battery disconnected. This confirms it's a mechanical problem. The lock is stuck halfway.
At this point I just need to figure out how to trip the latch
Firmly push the tab to locked, then unlocked in a fairly quick manner. This always worked with my old 97.
Probably won't work, but it's worth a shot.
Thanks but that doesn't work. The latch is bad. I just need to open the door somehow
Sawzall :)
Push the unlock button from the inside HARD and force the handle. Does the handle give resistance? Or its just not catching on anything?
I MAY get to this point if this darn thing doesn't open soon :lo5l:Quote:
Originally Posted by dpartinvr4
When I push the unlock from the inside it fails to go all the way over like there's a mechanical resistance. After doing this when I pull the outside handle there's a slight bump like it's trying but it doesn't catch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilie@GZP
I found this on the other site which seems to be the solution. Passenger Door unlock... instant relock FIXED!
Problem is I still don't know how to defeat the latch to get the door open in the first place :mad:
just push really hard, and force the handle. if that doesn't work, you're cutting out your interior panel to get to the door internals.
Interior is already out (repaint project). I can access the latch and actuator already, I just can't figure out how to trip the latch.
If the interior door panel is out, then just disconnect the rods going to the electric door lock actuator and you should be home free.
Already tried that. There is something jamming at the latch.
did you take the arm off of the handle and try manually moving it?
SUCCESS!
With the window up I stuck my hand into the latch mechanism while operating the interior door lock and found a way to open the door. Now I need to take the latch out and see what the hell is wrong with it.
Woot :)
Glad to hear this Jim....post up pics of the mechanism once you get it out!\
Bob.
See the white plastic? Just to the right is a prong that normally rests on a rubber pad inside that plastic. The rubber is a bit compressed so the prong moves too far and prevents the lock from fully opening
I'm glad that worked for ya! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Here's the fixed latch. Used two layers of bicycle tire patch with a total thickness of about 1/16 inch. Now there's a small gap between the lock and latch bars.
Good thing this happened when the interior door panel was out :)
Believe it or not I have the same damn problem with the drivers latch. See where the two bars touch here? BTW, had to use my impact driver to pull the Torx screws in the door jamb
Also attaching a PDF file with highlights
Here's the drivers latch repaired with 1/16 of rubber added.
Wow, I've never seen that happen. Glad you fixed it.
If you don't mind I'll add this info to my help page.
So my theory for why this happened goes like this: when the doors are unlocked, these rubber pads are constantly under compression. Add the heat of curing paint plus paint solvents and you can imagine the rubber softening. So repainting your car puts the latches at risk.
Isn't this the same problem as the one in the thread you linked from the other forum? Your pics are good, but I can't see exactly where you put the rubber pieces. Maybe you could circle the repair? I'm a little slow for these things to sink in! Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimvr4
The car gets hotter sitting outside in the sun, unless they baked your car when they painted it.
They did bake it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilie@GZP
Its mainly due to wear and tear on the central locking mechanism when the stop wears it causes the continuos click click or gets stuck locked or unlocked, heres some shots of the rubber stop resess and with rubber fitted.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...e/GTOTT019.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...TOdoorlock.jpg
Those shots are of the actuator motor. I didn't have any issue with them but it's interesting to see the internals. Note that the actuator motors can't cause the problem I reported in this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma
Unbelievably, this problem has returned to my passenger door. I'm hoping to hell I can spring the latch open without having to cut up my door panel :(
Damnit Jim, I am sorry :(
Using the key instead of the fob is no different?
THIS is an issue WE need ALL need to resolve....
Bob.
Bob, I agree. The key and the fob CANNOT open the door when it's in this state. It is a mechanical issue where the door latch and lock mechanisms interfere which prevents both unlocking and unlatching.Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioSpyderman
FORTUNATELY I was able to spring the latch open with the end of a straightened coathanger that I keep on my pegboard for general use. What a relief that was :redface:. I pulled the door handle and latch mechanism and found that the rubber I had added wasn't thick enough and got compressed and failed to prevent jam ups. I think it needs somewhere between .075-.100 inch thickness to get the job done. I may try 2-3 layers of 3M mounting tape.
I think it is possible for this to happen to any of us. The passenger door can get completely jammed and no effort with the lock, latch, key, or fob on the inside or outside can open the door. On the drivers door the same thing can happen and there is no recourse from the outside of the car but if you can get inside you can always open the drivers door from the inside latch because the drivers door mechanism is different.
My driver's door is acting up again as the fix wasn't good enough. I'll be taking apart the latch today and checking how the mechanism is binding up.
After all this trouble, it's very tempting to buy new latches for the doors. The driver side is MB632469 and the passenger side is MB632470.
I have some used ones from a 94 rt if you want them