Looks like I am not going too go as massive as I thought, and the electrical limits of the 3s platform is unknown to me. So I ask:
With the following done:
Bigtyla's ground kit in 1/0GA
1/0GA from alternator power to battery "+"
1/0GA from front to back
Will the stock alternator support 2,000 Watts RMS?
Anyone who suggests needing / using caps will promptly be ignored in this thread
How's about some caps?
Sorry - you asked for that.
Yes I know, and I knew it was going to happen....I even laughed.Quote:
Originally Posted by j2k4
i would say no.
2000w/12v=166A
2000w/12v=142A
I would say that you would need at least a 200amp alternator for a system that large. If you want it 100% reliable, you already have the big 3 (alt to battery, engine to chassis, battery to chassis), i would also get a deep cycle battery and wire it in along with your current battery.
I mean you can do it with less, but i wouldnt. Some people run 1500w systems off of an 80A alt and it works. To do it right, get a high output alt.
Ignore above...
Music will run at full volume 20% of your amps power. Music is not a sine wave, its a complex wave, it is dynamic so is full of spikes. Don't think you will be anywhere near your alternators limits with that continuous. Music spikes above your alts rating will be taken care of by the battery so dont get a Deep cycle unless you like running your stereo for extended time and you run your bat below 10 volts alot. Deep cycle bats are terribly slow at discharge, so use the best biggest lead acid you can fit or better yet dual batt.
I remember reading about how you can take and replace the stock fuse with one about a third of the size and you still won't pop it.Quote:
Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud
I also talked to a good friend that runs a R/F DB4000 or what ever that monster is with factory alt in his 08 civic SI and two Vtank 2000 batteries. He said his lights barely dim at night and that is with heavy bass notes
I am going to look into BATCAP 800's for the rear, that way I can keep them hidden in the amp rack that I am building. I was going to build my system out and if I have issues, I will just get a mechman 220 amp H/O alternator. But it sounds like I will not need it.
I was really hoping that you would offer some advise to this, thanks.
Years ago I had 1600w or so in my 97 NA. And that alternator wasn't as big as a TT's. The only issues I had were the normal interior lights dimming, I always wondered if that was ground related or power, wouldn't hurt to run an extra 12 or 10 gauge from the thin console area to the chassis.
I planned on running an 10GA Power & Ground when I install my system so I know that it I have issues it will be because I need a bigger alternator. But after talking to a friend that is MECP certified and running a 2000W RMS amp in an 08 civic SI with stock alt and two additional batteries, and other posts here I should be fine.
DC runs negitive to positive. So it you dont have a choke at the grounding point eg wire size or termination (dump fuses for C/Breakers) you will be fine. I run 0 gauge in my hilux (everywhere) with a 18" getting 2500wrms and even with sine wave bass drops of 20hz I'm only just dimming. But I know that I'm at my batteries limit of discharge. But with music its perfectly fine at full volume. Always do biggest battery first, thickest earths you can to the chassis (how can a wire be thicker than your chassis? your chassis is the thickest wire in your car). A second battery will still be cheaper than replacing your alt and give you better results.
P.S a Batcap is a awesome choice but exspensive (massively low ESR and that equals an amazingly quick response to peak demands).
Sounds like I am going to put the biggest Batcap that properly fits under the hood and two Batcap 800's in the rear (the 800 can be laid it's side, 3" thick).
Wow overkill but I love you... hahahahahaha.
Yeah, what I would like to do is have my batteries be in the rear and no battery under the hood. I will contact Ray @ Batcap and see what he recommends.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud
No homo right?
LOL I spoke with Ray at Batcap, he recommended two batcap 2000's....they are ordered and on the way.
Sweet. Was joking about the gay love lol. They are great bats but over the top pricing... but hey if you want good you pay good.
i think the 220 mechman is a teriffic idea. stereo's aren't the only thing that can sap power. running a massive fuel system can also be an electrical hog. overall, it's a great upgrade for more than just audo reasons.
Hey, do you remember when you wanted me to make some sub pods for 10's in the back seat side panels, well, when my Soarer is done... I'll be working on them and the bumper in unison, I will make a thread.
I think you has me confused with another member, I don't recall me wanting you to do that. Where you making them for yourself? Because I never planned on installing anything like that in my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Parker
Sorry man, IPD wanted me to. Perhaps I should have elaborated a little more.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2fnloud
yeah...that was me. i've always wondered if it would be possible--and i think it would be. 8" fits with just a small amount of modding--so 10" should be able to fit with some spacers & a new set of interior panels.
Just so people know. Cause many don't. If you are drawing more current continuously than your alt can supply then your battery will go flat. If you sub amp is pulling peak current draws bigger than your Alt supplies then the battery supplies all the extra current. If you are pulling more current with peaks than your battery can supply you should upgrade your battery to handle the demand. If your electrical system is drawing continuously up to 80% of your Alts supply then you will need to look at replacing your Alt. A minimum 20% is needed to recharge the battery. And lets be honest here, whos pulling 88+ amps or more continuously. Very few I bet.Quote:
Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness
i've never actually calculated it. then again, everything else on my build is massive overkill...so i figured....why not?
High output alt is never a bad idea, IMO. I only blew up one stock alt. I forget exactly what I was running back then.. might have been two 15s on 1200wrms and an amp for the mids and highs, but the stock alt couldn't keep up, went thru several batteries and then the alt finally failed(took a while to happen but eventually did). HO Alternator was the best purchase I made for my SOHC when I had it.
Hope everything works out for you.
Thank you,Quote:
Originally Posted by mk_
I am drawing out a schematic right now for my stereo, and battery relocation. I find it easier to get a complete list for everything this way.
I have been reading the battery relocation process on Stealth316, I am confused as to why he ran a ground from the rear just to tie it to the chassis, that could of been done in the rear.
I like the fact that you can indeed fit two runs and hide it. I like it because I will be running two runs of 1/0GA to feed the two Batcap 2000's that will be in the rear, this way if I do need to buy a H/O alternator I have the proper GA to support the amperage for that length of wire.
Also if I remember correctly, (dangerous phrase I know) The alternator on the SOHC is 90 AMP....the alternator on the TT / VR4 is 110 AMP.
BTW what brand H/O alternator did you use?
You are correct on the amperage difference, SOHC was 90 amp and certainly could have factored into its eventual death. I used a 200 amp Excessive Amperage alt in my install.
I talked with Nate about my Saturn, He turned me to Ray @ Batcap. I told him I already had a 180A alt in my Saturn, He replied "Then talk to Ray at Batcap, see what he recommends with what you already have."
So if I need to step up to a H/O alt Net will be the first person I get a quote from.
Well here is the schematic:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...ATIC-Model.jpg
Everything in red is what I have in my possession. All the numbers are part numbers for KnuKonceptz products.
Not 10's but still...Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Parker
GTOPerformance.co.nz • Login
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...110212_002.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...110212_003.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...110213_005.jpg
that's great and all...but i'm talking about the actual interior panel being modified; not just the speaker mount. :)
I wonder how that would sound/workout, but I think for a more OEM and badass look, I'd like to do the whole panel. I'm into seeing my subs go crazy on a heavy bass line lol, That's not your car is it Joe?
no...i think joe's is black. i'd say it was golferman's...but i can't access those forums to be sure.
No not my car it's a guy called " Box" from New Zealand. My car is red :p \/ \/ \/
your car is red.....ish :p
My car IS red... just not when taken on my phone :pQuote:
Originally Posted by MR2
ahh that's the problem! Damn red cars being hard for iphones to shoot...(recent apple thing)
Actually it was taken on a 2 year old Samsung Omnia [Windows Phone]. I now have the Samsung Galaxy S though. But your right, Any time it took a pic of my car it came out pink.
Same here, I hate my iPhone's camera. Sadly that's all I'm stuck with right now.
GTOJOE I think your phones are telling you something here Joseph Knight :P
Phone!!! not phones...... Now I have to take a photo with my new phone to prove this wrong.... :sad:Quote:
Originally Posted by reallyxxxxxxloud
Anyway speaking of large stereos. This is Anne's car from the gto performance forum.
http://www.gtoperformance.co.nz/foru...ile.php?id=466
http://www.gtoperformance.co.nz/foru...ile.php?id=465
Its pink till I see differently lol.
GTOJOE is now... PINKY! Haha, jk Joe, we still like you, even though your car is pink