nitrous issues

So my desire to keep my N/A, N/A has died. this is due to me becoming use to my bolt on 6g74..... i want that new rush of getting a little more power so i went out and purchased nitrous!

here is what i have for now:

zex efi wet kit
zex bottle heater
zex no2 guage
zex single purge
3sx inline fuel presure gauge
EGT guage (have not purchased yet)

Im getting ready to put this bad boy on but i have run into a few hurdles

1.) do i mount the t fitting that goes into the stock fuel line before or after the fpr?
2.)the zex kit i purchased comes with a managment unit with a sensor for tps. how would i go about splicing this in to our tps on the throttle body?
3.)the smallest jet the system came with is a 55hp shot. will this overrun our stock fuel system? will a new pump be neccesary? if not what is the largest i can go without having any real issues? Please keep in mind my car has a 6g74 in it currently which is already putting more stress on the 160k NA fuel pump
4.)i hear alot of people saying to run dry becuase of pooling issues with our plenum, then i hear others say wet will be fine? im i totaly screwed or should i just look into not running over a certain shot?
5.) since the kit does have a tps sensor this basicaly replaces a wot switch correct? Should i also look into a window switch as well or is that a bit over kill?


hopefully i put together a well kit so far i have heard good things about zex, let me know if there are any additional iteims i should add to get the maxium safe enjoyment out of this system


Sorry about the long read as well

-jesse

Before the fpr, if you mount it after you will just be sending it back to your tank.

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Originally Posted by mb3000

Before the fpr, if you mount it after you will just be sending it back to your tank.

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thank you, not sure why that logic escaped my head but it did :) plus rep for you sir

any other input? really would like to get a little more information out of this

My buddy and I put a Zex kit on his Alero. Was really easy. Hooked up the "armed" switch and the WOT switch. Picked up fuel from the fuel rail and plumbed the nozzle into the intake tube. He used the 55hp shot on the stock motor and never had an issue. I was told that the 10lb. bottle will last about 3 weeks with all the "playing" he was doing.

My kit uses Zex components and I am very happy with them so far. Felt they were a good value.
As far as your fuel pump, with as easy as the fuel pump is to change on these cars and as cheap as stock TT pumps/Walbros are I would definitely recommend upgrading.
Not worth doing major damage.

I use a window switch and really think any extra safety device you can add would be a good idea. After all you went through all the trouble of the engine swap, why risk it.
I have an MSD window switch and have never had a problem with it. Hooks up to these engines easily and accurately.

i guess i will be browsing the classifieds for a pump. it is my understanding that you dont need to hotwire a tt pump? but you do a walbro/denso? what is the flow rated for a tt pump? is it more then adquate for lets say a 75wet shot or should i look into a walbro or denso?

A tt pump in proper working order will be fine with a 75hp shot.
I have run a 75hp shot, along with all major NA mods on just a TT pump and had plenty of fuel.

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Originally Posted by 92EuroDiamante

A tt pump in proper working order will be fine with a 75hp shot.
I have run a 75hp shot, along with all major NA mods on just a TT pump and had plenty of fuel.

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hotwired or stock? also where you running a wet shot? bought this kit with safty in mind vs buying dry but with all the talk of pooling fuel in the plenum ive heard im getting kind of scared to actually run it :(

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Originally Posted by jessecain1

hotwired or stock? also where you running a wet shot? bought this kit with safty in mind vs buying dry but with all the talk of pooling fuel in the plenum ive heard im getting kind of scared to actually run it :(

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I was running it stock, however when I tested fuel pump voltage on the stock wiring I was getting in the high range of average voltage on stock wiring. Probably due to low mileage and high output alternator. So you may be pushing it if your stock wiring is not getting the pump adequate voltage. If its hotwired or getting good voltage you should be fine.

Id hotwire it if I were you. Its a pretty cheap mod.

My kit is a wet kit.

alright thanks for all the help. i really apperciate it.

-jesse

1. Like has been said, the T for the feed line will go before the FPR, actually the feed line before it comes up to the front fuel rail...back when it's still rubber.
2. From what I remember with those setups they just need a signal from the TPS so it's best to just splice into the harness by the ECU. Not sure of the pin for the TPS off the top of my head but I'm sure you can look it up on here, stealth316, or the service manual.
3. 55 will be fine with the stock pump. If you want to go 75 or higher i'd go with a TT pump. I was running a 100 dry shot on a TT pump with no issues. I wouldn't go any higher than that.
4. You should be fine...as long as the kit atomizes the mixture enough the engine will be pulling in enough air to suck it all in.
5. Yeah, I think those kits use the TPS signal instead of a WOT switch. I would recommend a window switch. Running nitrous below ~3000rpms or when you're on the rev limiter is not good.

Another safety item I'd look at is an EGT gauge. It'll tell you if you're running too lean (and hot) before any big issues come up.

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Originally Posted by Nationalmilkman

I was told that the 10lb. bottle will last about 3 weeks with all the "playing" he was doing.

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Once you hit 5lbs or so, you will find it difficult to maintain bottle pressure. The electric bottle heaters don't do jack at that point, you will either need a propane torch directly on the bottle, or get a pot of boiling water.

hmm so there isnt just a wire coming off the tps i can slice to in the engine bay? i have to cut into it by the ecu?

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Originally Posted by jessecain1

hmm so there isnt just a wire coming off the tps i can slice to in the engine bay? i have to cut into it by the ecu?

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There probably is. I just typically splice into stuff at the ECU connector.

thanks.

now has anybody tried one of these for a power source... or is it kind of a gimmick. i like having to cut as few wires as possiable?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-FUSE-BLOCK-EXT...item3cb74929f5

also should i point the fogger toward the throttle body or the intake for the best air fuel mixture?

Point it in the direction of flow. you will find that the high pressure nitrous will actually draw a little bit of extra air thru the MAF as well. This is called the "entrainment effect".

that fuse splice actually looks pretty cool... but how do you know if you're tapping the "in" or "out" side of the fuse? I would want the nitrous system to be protected (unless you're planning to mount another inline fuse).

I know the NOS kits come with an inline fuse...I imagine the Zex kit would too. I wired mine directly to the battery actually.

so i just bought a nos window switch and i have no idea how to wire it in to work with the tps switch and activation button.... wiring is not my specility can anyone laythis out in really easy terms for me.? here is the one i bought. thinking i got a good price :)

NOS NItrous RPM Activated Window Switch 4.6 GT & Cobra | eBay

Not sure of the specifics of wiring this one but I would have went with a MSD window switch. You get a display and more versatility.